I just checked the back of the safe and pulled out a long forgotten IJ 70. Compared to my EG pistol the Ruskie looks like a High point in fit and finish. I have not fired it in some time(380) but as I remember it was quite accurate, the edges are sharp and little polish before bluing and a vulnerable rear sight. Also found a Beretta 1934 in 380 made in 1942 (army issue) that is a neat little shooter, but that is for a different thread.
MAKAROV: edify me please
- Thread starter kcub
- Start date
Yep. If you use the forum search (actually,it is P-64 with a dash) you'll see lots of comments about them. I've had one that has been one of my primary carry weapons for years. You absolutely must change out the main spring in order to get a good DA trigger pull. They are very reliable and amazingly accurate for such a small frame. Also, while you are changing the main spring put in a heavier recoil spring and it will help with some of the snap of the recoil.
I have a Russian Mak and a P64 and love them both. Changed the springs in the P64 because recoil was brutal. It's manageable now.
Had a PA-63 and it sure looked nice but had stoppages galore even with good quality FMJ. Traded that POS for a Hi-Point 9mm and never looked back.
Had a PA-63 and it sure looked nice but had stoppages galore even with good quality FMJ. Traded that POS for a Hi-Point 9mm and never looked back.
Ignition Override
New member
If some people suggest a Stronger recoil spring in the P-64 (the difference not specified), does this ever reduce feed reliability?
Curious only because my German PPK/S (.380 Auto) required a weaker Wolff spring, because most modern ammo doesn't quite always blow the slide full aft where every round can be stripped from the magazine (new mag.).
This was my gun smith's explanation.
Curious only because my German PPK/S (.380 Auto) required a weaker Wolff spring, because most modern ammo doesn't quite always blow the slide full aft where every round can be stripped from the magazine (new mag.).
This was my gun smith's explanation.
Limnophile
New member
IO,
Wolff Gunsprings sells three recoil springs for the P-64: 18 lb (factory standard), 20 lb, and 22 lb. I infer from there being no underpowered springs offered that the pistol has no trouble pushing the slide back far enough to snag the next round. They offer a calibration kit with one each of the three springs just in case either of the two extrapowered springs proves to be too much; however, I'm guessing Wolff wouldn't offer the 22-lb spring if it tended to cause problems.
Wolff Gunsprings sells three recoil springs for the P-64: 18 lb (factory standard), 20 lb, and 22 lb. I infer from there being no underpowered springs offered that the pistol has no trouble pushing the slide back far enough to snag the next round. They offer a calibration kit with one each of the three springs just in case either of the two extrapowered springs proves to be too much; however, I'm guessing Wolff wouldn't offer the 22-lb spring if it tended to cause problems.
carguychris
New member
Off topic, I know, but I wonder if this would allow my Zella-Mehlis 7.65 PP to cycle Remchester ammo... it only functions correctly with European ammo and Korean PMC. American ammo constantly fails to eject - the case stovepipes or gets stuck lengthwise in the ejection port, and the next round does not feed. The slide not traveling back far enough due to a too-stiff spring is a logical explanation.Ignition Override said:
Ignition Override
New member
kcub/Doyle: Three middle-aged friends carry the P-64.
As for changing its main spring, a guy nicknamed "Sootch" has a very clear depiction of how one does so, on his Youtube Channel. His videos are informative and factual. He might be one of the guys who says that the resulting SA pull is Very light. Might take getting used to it.
The steps look fairly simple, but as a relative handgun novice my choice would be to let my gun smith do so, in about five minutes.
Does the preferred Wolff spring keep the DA pull pretty smooth?
Does the spring reduce the DA pull to something more like the PPK/S, or even less?
Some people state that a heavier recoil spring reduces felt recoil (?). Curious, because my German PPK/S has bluing that is too nice for real carry.
As for changing its main spring, a guy nicknamed "Sootch" has a very clear depiction of how one does so, on his Youtube Channel. His videos are informative and factual. He might be one of the guys who says that the resulting SA pull is Very light. Might take getting used to it.
The steps look fairly simple, but as a relative handgun novice my choice would be to let my gun smith do so, in about five minutes.
Does the preferred Wolff spring keep the DA pull pretty smooth?
Does the spring reduce the DA pull to something more like the PPK/S, or even less?Some people state that a heavier recoil spring reduces felt recoil (?). Curious, because my German PPK/S has bluing that is too nice for real carry.
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Yes, a heavier recoil spring does seem to reduce the felt recoil. Laws of physics being what they are, you can't reduce the actual recoil of a given cartridge. The only thing you can do is change your perception of that recoil in your hand. A heavier spring spreads that recoil over a slighly longer time so it doesn't feel quite so "snappy" in your hand.
As to changing the mainspring yourself, unless you are a complete idiot with tools you can do it yourself. All you need is a screwdriver, a punch or something similar to drive out the pin, and a thick bent paperclip or something similar to hold the spring.
Get yourself a little tube of loctite or a bottle of clear nail polish from your wife to use on the grip screw. Over tightening it will crack the grips so use the loctite or nail polish to keep it snug.
As to changing the mainspring yourself, unless you are a complete idiot with tools you can do it yourself. All you need is a screwdriver, a punch or something similar to drive out the pin, and a thick bent paperclip or something similar to hold the spring.
Get yourself a little tube of loctite or a bottle of clear nail polish from your wife to use on the grip screw. Over tightening it will crack the grips so use the loctite or nail polish to keep it snug.
Cheapshooter
New member
Huh, you need a reason other than being a good shooter, and not cost a fortune?
I'd need a lot less safe space if I had to have a good reason!
Limnophile
New member
And a too-heavy spring drives the slide forward with enough force to make the muzzle dive, thus making it more difficult to reacquire the target for a followup shot.