Lubricating your gun...A different option to an old issue?

I admit to not trying a lot of different products. I do use G 96 and feel it handles all that I need including cleaning and lubing. I use a little light oil on some key points but not much. I use 96 on my firearms that I have never shot, spray them down, let it set, wipe it down. No rust ever. Always looking to do things better though.
 
Q: What do you call someone who graduated last in his medical school class?

A: "Doctor."

Just because this fellow is a trained and credentialed gunsmith and has been doing it for 20+ years does not mean he is any good. Plenty of the bad ones and most of the mediocre ones find ways to stay in business. The fact that you posted this question here before following his advise suggests you may have sensed this.

The only use for Flitz on blueing that I can think of is to remove it. Unless that, for some reason, is what he was suggesting, I would keep it as far away from any of my blued guns as is practical. I can't make any recommendations about the teflon stuff he recommended, as I am not familiar with it.

ADD: Maybe he was suggesting that you use the Flitz to remove blueing from the rails before applying the teflon? Just asking, not endorsing. Also, wax may very well be a good protectant, but a lubricant?
 
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Anyone use MiliTec to lube their semiautos?
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I've been using militec-1 as my sole revolver and autoloader lubricant for the past couple of years (on moving parts, I use Ballistol to spray&wipe down the my guns for rust protection). Originally, I tried both their oil and their grease, but quickly went to just the oil only. It last a long time without evaporating or flowing away off of coated parts.

My SIG P226 rails have only ever had it on them, and after about 2100 rounds now, there is almost zero signs of wear on the slide or frame rails. Same for my other pistols (CZ P-01 also shows nary a mark on the frame rail anodizing, my other pistols are stainless steel frames and slides).

While I'm sure there are other products out there that also work just fine, I've been completely satisfied with militec-1. Since I have about 10-12oz of it, I'll be using it for many years to come (a little goes a long way).
 
I do not want to sound like an employee or something, which I am not, but I use EEZOX on all my firearms. It preserves and lubricates. The effect of the lubrication is long term. I do not have to lube slids often and the product works dry. It does not collect dirt. I have fired pistols not lubed for six months without any slide problems. The product does on wet, dries and protects dry. I have tried everything I could find over the decades and have found nothing to equal EEZOX.
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I've used Eezox for over 5 years and this has exactly been my experience with it. I also use it on padlocks and hinges out in the weather, lawnmower bearings, car door hinges, and anything that needs lubrication and a rust preventative.
 
"But, hey, if it's your gun, do what you want to with it."

But, hey, I have, and, it is. But hey, what's your experience? Have you EVER used Flitz on a blued gun? Just wondering.
 
But, hey, I have, and, it is. But hey, what's your experience? Have you EVER used Flitz on a blued gun? Just wondering.
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No, I haven't. I don't purposely abuse my guns. It may not take off the bluing the first polish or for a number of polishes. Eventually it will, though.
 
I found an interesting post from a few years ago on another forum. Apparently, Flitz confirmed in an email that their product was abrasive but simply did not fit into the government definition of abrasive:

The gentleman that stated "if it is a polish, it has to be abrasive" is right in a very literal sense. However, you are also right about the Flitz, because our polish falls 12% below the government standard for abrasiveness. In other words, the polishing granules are so fine that Flitz can be considered non-abrasive.
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http://shootersforum.com/showthread.htm?t=296

Take that for what it's worth. To be fair, a poster on that forum said he had used it for years with no ill effect. I think of preserving my own firearm finishes for decades, not years.
 
It's a polish. I don't polish my guns very often, certainly not during routine cleanings, and I don't scrub with the stuff, more like a light buffing with a patch on a fingertip. Sure, somebody will put Flitz on a Dremmel tool and ruin a gun once in awhile, but they don't need Flitz to do that.

I've been a gun owner for decades, since the 1950s, is that long enough? The oldest gun I've ever carried was my great uncle Ed's 1884 S&W break top .38. Maybe I'm really thinking in terms of centuries... :D


"To be fair, a poster on that forum said he had used it for years with no ill effect."

I'm not surprised.

Sometimes I think people get into trouble by expecting too much from a product. Flitz isn't going to make an old blue Ruger or S&W shine like a Royal Blue Python. It's just a polish, not magic.
 
Speaking of polishing, this silversmith site has good introductory instructions, like how to use a cotton ball. (I have all of my parents' sterling flatware and it needs cleaning and selling. Or maybe just selling, polishing is hard work.)

www.silversmithing.com/care.htm

"All polishes have some degree of abrasion."

"don’t use polishes that have dried up—the abrasive particles have become much too concentrated "

And this final piece of advice is the one I would really emphasize...

"rinse the object first to remove any pollution that may have settled on the object. These contaminants, which may be more abrasive than the polish you will be using, can actually scratch..."

In other words, you still have to clean the gun before you can polish it.
 
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