lubricating brass

I use the RCBS lube and have done so since the early 80's. I'm on my second little plastic squeeze bottle. The stuff lasts forever. My application technique is to use an old folded up piece of Cotton t-shirt that I have (over the years) fully saturated with lube. It sits next to the press. I take a case by the neck, twirl the bottom third of the case on the lube pad (which is rather nasty after 35 years of use) and then resize the case. And I lube the inside of the neck with a brush (also rather nasty by now). Never have stuck a case. Not once. Never. Nada. Nyet.

I just can't see messing with an approach that works. People on hunting and shooting forums whine about stuck cases all the time, and it seems they ALL use spray lube. Can we see a connection there?

And I'm shocked to hear that some people lube pistol cases before using carbide sizing dies. It makes it easier? How much easier does it need to be, Alice? Good grief.
 
I have used lanolin (anhydrous lanolin, available from a pharmacy), but it was messy and smelled funny. I used RCBS lube. I used real industrial swaging lube. Then one day, I was told about Imperial resizing lube, and I never looked back. Been using it for 30 years, nothing better.
 
I will tell you it was a mistake to leave the lanolin on the case for any length of time.
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Don't see a question being asked. Just allot of assumptions reply's.
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If there was an assumption it was on the part of the original reloader because I got to the point removing that stuff was more work than the case was worth. I tumble after sizing, I do not care if I do not remove anything, I tumble after sizing.

F. Guffey
 
you can get 100% (or >99%) at lab supply places. Grainger sells it. One gallon would last a lifetime if using for case lube
 
OS11085:
lubricating brass
I have been thinking of reloading for awhile now. I have read what you fellows are saying about getting manuals reading and understanding them before you venture into this . I totally agree and am following your advise. The question I have they talk about lubricating your cases using a case lube very lightly so it doesn't gum up the works can use use spray dry film lube, like you would use as a mold release in casting resin parts.
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Well as I mentioned earlier you can buy any of several brands of case lube readily available or you can roll your own. I am with those who suggest a turn key solution over the counter. All case lube over the counter I have seen has easy to follow directions on the packaging. They all do about the same thing some doing it differently but the end results should be the same when the directions are followed. Lubing a case while not a difficult art form does take a little practice or getting used to, a light coat means a light coating or the lube will build up in your dies and bas weird things begin to happen.

Here are some examples of over the counter case lube solutions:
Case%20Prep%20Lube.png


The majority are RCBS simply because I happen to have RCBS when the image was taken. Also, the aerosol can of RCBS Case Slick is no longer available which figures because I liked that style. The case lube 2 on the far right was made for use with a pad. The pads are like the old style rubber stamp ink pads of days gone by.

Case%20Lube%20Pad.png


The pad is wet with the lube and using the palm of your hand the cases are rolled over the pad. In the case of bottle neck cartridges like the .223 Remington shown only the case body is lubed, not the case shoulder and neck areas.

Most hand loaders use the assorted pump sprays as shown in the first image. People just find what works for them. The Lee product is a paste wiped on using your fingers. Again, try several and see what works best for you. Eventually you will develop a technique. Additionally a tiny amount of case lube is applied inside the case neck making life easier for the expander ball on your dies. I generally just get a little on a finger tip and wipe it across the case mouth. Again, find a technique that works for you.

I believe I saw someone mention to avoid the Hornady One Shot. The gun forums seem to be loaded with nightmares about the stuff. Personally I never tried it but those who say it worked stressed following the directions to the letter. Again, never having tried the stuff I am clueless but you may want to heed the warnings.

That about covers it. As to mold release? Yes, I used it many years ago and yes, in a bind one night it worked. However, as was mentioned, there is plenty of case lube available and it is very inexpensive with a little going a long, long way so I would just grab some case lube of your choice and begin experimenting.

Ron
 
Got a source for 100% Isopropanol? The 91% is pretty common and 99% typically takes a chemical or pharmaceutical supply house, I have never seen 100% Isopropanol Alcohol.
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Just buy the ISO Heet. Available at any car parts store. Very convenient.
 
ISO Heet isn't 100% pure. It also contains a "fuel injector cleaner" that's listed as proprietary.

However, you don't need chemical or pharmaceutical supply stores to get 99%. You can order it right on Amazon, even 99.5%.

However, it's a waste of money. Even 90% is plenty good enough. That tiny bit of water won't hurt anything.

Besides which, your bottle of "pure" alcohol won't be as soon as you open it. Alcohol is VERY hygroscopic and will absorb water out of the air in short order.
 
Truth. I just have a gallon of 100% because I used to work in a forensic lab and well we had some! In the last 4 years i have used about 10 oz of the case lube...so a gallon will last me a LONG time. A lifetime supply of case lube (thats arguably the best) for about $12. Win.
 
See lube? Used several over the years. After reading several discussions on custom case lubes, some with landline and some even mentioned mink oil! That‘s when the light bulb lit up. I knew Redding Boot Company had a mink oil with landline boot treatment. I had used it for years on my work boots with great results. So I got it out of my shoe wax box and took it to my reloading bench. Like Brilcream just a little dab will do ya. Get a touch on your finger tips and rub on he case, even several cases with one touch. I have now used it on several hundred cases and I'm giving away all my other lubes to friends who stills them.
 
I'm not sure if OP had a question either...?? ... but :

I use case lube all the time...( .380, 9mm...up to .44 Mag )....an 8 oz bottle of Dillon case lube is less than $10 ....and I reload about 25,000 rounds a year for handguns...and I don't think I've used a full bottle in the last 3 years.../ so I don't see any point in coming up with homemade options...

My technique is a little different...get a shallow cardboard box top ( like the one that comes on a case of copy paper at office supply stores)...lay a few hundered cases flat in box lid...spritz them with case lube...roll them around ..spritz them a 2nd time...let dry for 20 min....

then I just dump all of the cases into my case feeder...( Dillon 650 ) ...and it makes the press run significantly smoother even with carbide dies. If I didn't have a case feeder...I'd just collect the lubed cases in a container, like a cottage cheese container....and then just hand feed them into resizing operation...
 
My reloads every week are max. 30 rounds. Never used home made brews, or fastest way to lube. A stuck case is a wake up call, happened to me using a brand new sizing die on the first stroke. Now when I raise the ram an feel more resistance, I'll lower the ram and add lube. No short cuts & use a brand name. Easy for me to say when I'm only sizing 30 on a single stage press.
 
Not to make you cry ...( but I just loaded 600 rds of 9mm in about 45 min this morning ...)....:D ...sorry...( Dillon 650 with a case feeder ).
 
I load a lot of 223 243 and I use RCBS lube I put my cases in a old cake pan and spray than shake the pan then spray again do not over spray I have not stuck a brass after going to RCBS I do not spray any straight wall brass I do not load 30 carbine so I can not say any thing about it. I jest got done loading 660 223 and 600 9MM
 
How often do you shoot & how many rounds at a session with each firearm. Round count is big time.
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On average during the spring & summer seasons about once a week I get to the range. Some weeks two or three times and some none. My day at the range is just that, about an eight hour day. Typically I will shoot about 100 each of .223 Remington and .308 Winchester. Some days more and some days less. Then I like to move down to the short ranges for .22 LR and some handgun. This will vary but generally 100 handgun rounds typically a mix of .38 Special and .357 Magnum, .45 ACP, .45 Colt, and .44 Remington Magnum, all subject to vary and that discounts any .22 LR which is generally about 100 each.

During the winters and the cold weather I hit the indoor range maybe weekly and a typical visit is between 100 and 200 rounds of the calibers I mentioned. All of it subject to what I feel like shooting on any given day.

Ron
 
I'm primarily a handgun shooter....and I shoot "tactical" drills....drawing from a holster, doing some double taps, reload drills, etc ( like draw and fire 2 in 2.5 sec , etc...)../ ..Draw and fire 5 - speed reload and fire 5 more...9 sec. It's easy to go thru 3 or 4 boxes in an hour or so...

My buddies and I compete in a different tactical course of fire every Thursday evening ...it's always 100 rounds...and I shoot some warmup so call it 3 boxes ( 150 rounds)....I practice drills one other day every week with my primary gun ( 4 boxes usually )...primary gun is 1911 in 9mm ...so total is about 350 rds a week in 9mm.../ I will occasionally go to range a 3rd day and shoot some revolvers or a backup 1911 ( .357 mag or .45acp )...so another 3 or 4 boxes...

But I average 7 to 8 boxes a week...

It's a major hobby .....but I enjoy keeping my skills relatively high ( for an old guy )...to maintain my competence when I carry ( 5" 1911 in 9mm is my carry gun)...
 
The question I have they talk about lubricating your cases using a case lube very lightly so it doesn't gum up the works can use use spray dry film lube, like you would use as a mold release in casting resin parts.
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Well, after 37 replies (some conflicting) I'm sure you could be pretty confused. Happens often on reloading forums.

I'm a confirmed tinkerer and during my early reloading days I tried lots of different "non-reloading" things applied to my reloading. I tried Cat Boom Lube (a dry, black, graphite based aerosol spray boom lube) and it worked, but it was pretty messy with black fingers getting fingerprints on everything. Another was cable pulling lube (a water based white "cream" that is used to lubricate cables for pulling/inserting into conduit, which I've heard is very close to Lee's case lube. I worked for a major city power company :rolleyes:) I tried almost everything that made the brass "slick" and most worked for sizing, but many side effects were not acceptable (some like STP are a real pain to get off after sizing. I'm not familiar with mold release for resin casting, but just the name leads me to think it might not work. As mentioned above, it is a good idea to start with a "known good" product when learning to reload as the fewer problems at the start the better. After a bit of experience you can try "different" case lubes (PAM, Bag Balm, even chapstick)...

The main problem with "over lubing" brass isn't the mess/gumming up dies, but hydraulic dents from excess lube between the die and the brass putting dents in the case. I settled on Mink Oil Boot Dressing Cream applied with the fingers of my left hand, it has a high lanolin content which is the "lube"....
 
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