I have been thinking of reloading for awhile now. I have read what you fellows are saying about getting manuals reading and understanding them before you venture into this . I totally agree and am following your advise. The question I have they talk about lubricating your cases using a case lube very lightly so it doesn't gum up the works can use use spray dry film lube, like you would use as a mold release in casting resin parts.
lubricating brass
- Thread starter OS11085
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Depends on the round, and the dies being used. If you are trying to lube large bottle neck rifle cartridges with a dry spray, it might be about as effective as using WD40 to lube a wheel bearing.
Case lubes are not expensive and a single purchase will last for many years, so it is not recommended for a beginner to look for something around the house that "will work just as good". If you get a product designed as a case lube, you are a lot more likely to get one that works well as a case lube.
Case lubes are not expensive and a single purchase will last for many years, so it is not recommended for a beginner to look for something around the house that "will work just as good". If you get a product designed as a case lube, you are a lot more likely to get one that works well as a case lube.
Straight-walled pistol cases used with carbide dies generally do not need lubrication. Likewise, if you neck-size bottle neck cases using a Lee Collet die, you do not need lubrication. The only straight-walled cartridge case that requires lube is the .30 Carbine, even when using a carbide die.
While I absolutely agree that straight wall handgun brass used in modern carbide sizing dies does not require lube... it doesn't seem to get said often enough that using some lube not only doesn't hurt whatsoever, but it absolutely makes a tremendous, almost RIDICULOUS improvement in the experience.
I've been known to use it with 9mm on occasion and I always use it for .44 Mag, .460 & .500 S&W Magnum also.
For the OP, who doesn't actually say which caliber he's talking about...
If you are talking about lubing brass for bottle neck rifle such as .223 or .308, you will find out QUICKLY and not at all in a good way just how irrationally important quality case lube (used properly) is when full-length sizing rifle brass. Frankly, I can't describe how difficult it is to size bottle neck rifle brass, and/or how likely you are to stick a case in a sizing die if you aren't using good lube and using it properly.
The wrong lube or forgetting it entirely...? Well, just WAIT until you feel the resistance on your press lever. You won't believe it until it happens.
I've been known to use it with 9mm on occasion and I always use it for .44 Mag, .460 & .500 S&W Magnum also.
For the OP, who doesn't actually say which caliber he's talking about...
If you are talking about lubing brass for bottle neck rifle such as .223 or .308, you will find out QUICKLY and not at all in a good way just how irrationally important quality case lube (used properly) is when full-length sizing rifle brass. Frankly, I can't describe how difficult it is to size bottle neck rifle brass, and/or how likely you are to stick a case in a sizing die if you aren't using good lube and using it properly.
The wrong lube or forgetting it entirely...? Well, just WAIT until you feel the resistance on your press lever. You won't believe it until it happens.
.
Case lubes are relatively inexpensive and there must be a dozen recipes out there online for making your own home brew versions. I have experimented with mold release as a dry film lube and it does work.
Personally I like the small RCBS Pump spray (Case Slick) in the 4 ounce container, Part #09315, but find what works for you.
As mentioned some dies (such as carbide lined) do not require a case lube but I generally lightly lube all my cases. I also periodically thoroughly clean my dies to remove any case lube build up. Since lube is inexpensive and goes a long, long way I suggest using it over mold release.
Ron
turtlehead
New member
If you lube pistol cases do you clean them after sizing?
The amount of case lube used should be so little that there's not enough to gum things up. I use two different case lubes, and both work great - Imperial Sizing Wax and Hornady Unique Case Lube. The Hornady Unique Case Lube is less expensive, so I use it more frequently.
Just a very thin film of either one of those case lubes, applied with your fingers, is sufficient. The film of case lube is applied to the brass is so thin, you should barely be able to see it. But you can certainly feel it. The brasses glide like silk in and out of the sizing dies.
And as others have said, after sizing, the brass is wiped with a paper napkin to clean it off.
Bayou
Just a very thin film of either one of those case lubes, applied with your fingers, is sufficient. The film of case lube is applied to the brass is so thin, you should barely be able to see it. But you can certainly feel it. The brasses glide like silk in and out of the sizing dies.
And as others have said, after sizing, the brass is wiped with a paper napkin to clean it off.
Bayou
Hi, I'm a newer reloader, so no expert, less than 2k pistol rounds under my belt. That being said I did see a pistol lube video on YouTube that I found helpful, sorry don't remember the person's name to give credit.
Anyways using Hornady dry lube and a large plastic freezer bag. One quick spritz into the bag, I put in 100 cases, shake it up, pull them out and give it 5 minutes to dry. Then load them up. Haven't had any issues since I've been doing it, and even with just a touch of lube the whole process runs smoother.
Anyways using Hornady dry lube and a large plastic freezer bag. One quick spritz into the bag, I put in 100 cases, shake it up, pull them out and give it 5 minutes to dry. Then load them up. Haven't had any issues since I've been doing it, and even with just a touch of lube the whole process runs smoother.
I have dry lubes, I do not use it but I have it just in case. And then there is degree of sizing caused by the case. The case has a resistance to sizing, some more, some less. I have found lubes with no names that work better than case lubes and then there is the press. The press must have the ability to overcome the cases ability to resist sizing. Overcoming the case's ability to resist sizing is where the threads on the press and die come in handy.
Back to a no name lube. I do not use it unless I need it. When I need it I have difficult making Dillon in a can or bottle look good, that goes for the lube in the small snuff can looking stuff called Imperial. Because I have a lot if it and find no reason to change I use RCBS case lube for everything else.
I have reloading/builders/shooters that insist on using Dillon in a can or bottle and or Imperial. Again, when the going gets tuff it is difficult to make that stuff look good.
F. Guffey
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Brian Pfleuger
Moderator Emeritus
Once you understand the basic process, the best way to get to know reloading is to do it. There's certain stuff that's not really going to "click" until you get started. Some of it seems complicated and isn't. Some seems like it's not, and is. Folks will swear that a certain thing works, or doesn't, and you'll have the exact opposite experience.
Lube? Yeah, there's spray lube. Generally only for rifle/bottleneck cases. Usually you put some cases in a plastic tub, spray some lube on, shake them around and then size. You have to clean the lube off somehow, regardless of the type you use.
If you're loading pistol cases, 95 times in 100, no lube needed. That's why they make "carbide" dies. Carbide dies for rifles still need lube though. Some folks lube EVERY case even with handguns in carbide dies. Some folks lube every 10th or 20th one just to make it easier. Most folks don't lube any case that goes in a carbide handgun die.
Lube? Yeah, there's spray lube. Generally only for rifle/bottleneck cases. Usually you put some cases in a plastic tub, spray some lube on, shake them around and then size. You have to clean the lube off somehow, regardless of the type you use.
If you're loading pistol cases, 95 times in 100, no lube needed. That's why they make "carbide" dies. Carbide dies for rifles still need lube though. Some folks lube EVERY case even with handguns in carbide dies. Some folks lube every 10th or 20th one just to make it easier. Most folks don't lube any case that goes in a carbide handgun die.
And then there was Jack O'Conner, his hands never quit hurting him, he found lanolin gave him relief. He wrote in one of his books in 1954 when lubing cases he used extra lanolin. I know; reloaders have their own personal formula and they have experimented and tried different mixtures etc.. but I will tell you it was a mistake to leave the lanolin on the case for any length of time.
F. Guffey
F. Guffey
I have used RCBS case lube since the early 60s and have never had the dilema of a stuck case. So you don't have to drag out the calculator, that is over 50 years.
I did have a case that pulled apart once, but I don't consider it a stuck case.
Also, I clean before sizing and I clean again after sizing.
I did have a case that pulled apart once, but I don't consider it a stuck case.
Also, I clean before sizing and I clean again after sizing.
I like the Hornady spray lube, works well.
I run it through the Tumbler when done.
I don't mind dealing with the media stuck in the primer pocket, I have a 223 manual trim tool that has the perfect sized tip, I push the media out with that and then clean the primer pocket on the prep station.
Sort the brass into the labeled containers.
I run it through the Tumbler when done.
I don't mind dealing with the media stuck in the primer pocket, I have a 223 manual trim tool that has the perfect sized tip, I push the media out with that and then clean the primer pocket on the prep station.
Sort the brass into the labeled containers.