Looking to get my S&W 3914 refiinished looking for suggestions!

This is no help, but I recommend THIS finish: :D

photo 1 (6).JPG

photo 2 (7).JPG

I do hope you find the right long-term solution for your gun. These things are way too nice to not look pretty!
 
Thanks guys there is a shop down the road from me that Cerakotes and I am going to go in and speak with them about it. Depending on what I find out there I might go that route.
 
Dave Severns does a "hard hat" treatment thought to be a type of ferritic nitrocarburizing. He has a great reputation and his hard hat treatment is said to be top notch. He mostly does 1911 work but may do the treatment on non-1911s. Probably not cheap.

https://www.severnscustom.com

Thanks for that info, KyJim. I spoke with Dave on the phone. Super nice and smart guy. An engineer by training.
 
Chad Buie at Club Customs can do Ionbond nitride coating. It's the black equivalent to industrial hard chrome. It holds up indefinitely.
The paints like Cerakote can't do that.
If you are going to refinish a gun, why not use an upgraded finish?
 
I tend to agree Bill DeShivs. That is why I am asking. I will check them out. They can do it but I would be looking at $300.

He also mentioned it comes out well but not great on the anodized frames. Slide would be rock solid because its steel. :D

He actually said the best refinish for this pistol would be reanodizing it.
 
Last edited:
I have only ever seen 2 of those dark Ladysmiths. And I bought the first one. It needs something soon as the finish on the slide is wearing thin. I understand that the dark version was made for only one year.

I will be taking it (probably just the slide) to this Puget Sound area shop for CeraKoting. I have been very happy with their work and attitude. They charge $200 for a pistol, one color, but may charge you for the labor in taking it apart and then putting it back together. You have to pay for at least shipping in their direction, and the return might be included in the price.

MAD Custom Coating

Bart Noir
 
I also called S&W. They can re-anodize the frame for me and re-blue the slide which would put it back to its original factory condition. It would run about $250 including shipping and prep work. Definitely another option to consider.
 
I still have to agree with the "leave it alone" opinions.

It looks like it was well used and not abused.

Bluing is just a very slow version of rust, and any blued firearm left uncared for will rust. Just disassemble it, clean and lube it, and it will function as before. When one starts to add finishes to most all areas, dimensions change.

It looks well broken-in and probably functions well.

I think your pistol looks just fine as is. I had a 39-2 (aluminum frame) in nearly new condition 20+ years ago that I sold to my father-in law back then and he has kept it in a place only God knows where. I'd love to know what it looks like today, but he is in Alaska and I am 2000 miles south.

If he didn't store it in a damp place in a moisture-accumulating gun rug, I'll bet it is still in good shape. Maybe the oils have congealed/hardened and it might take some force to retract the slide to get it operational, it will be like deja vu seeing it again.

If you are intent upon sprucing up the looks of your pistol, you might try Brownell's Oxpho Blue just for sh*ts and giggles. Like most cold blue solutions/pastes, it won't last long with heavy use of the pistol, but it will give you an idea of what the gun looked like new. Oxpho Blue treatments last longer than 44-40 or others.
 
I also called S&W. They can re-anodize the frame for me and re-blue the slide which would put it back to its original factory condition. It would run about $250 including shipping and prep work. Definitely another option to consider.

Would you then carry it less? Seems like you might be back in the same situation a lot sooner if you go with the re-blue -- though I think that's undoubtedly what would be the most attractive of the refinishing options.
 
It's hard to keep a carry gun looking pristine. I think you've got three options:

1) If the gun in question were mine, I'd go the home-remedy cosmetic route. I'd pick up some of the stuff available to touch up black alloy frames, and a good cold blue, like Brownell's OxPho-Blue, and just do my best to fix it. I've re-blued a couple of guns using Oxpho-Blue with stunning results. I've used the black touch-up stuff on a Beretta with good results, too. Some metals aren't happy with cold blue and I don't know how OxyPho-Blue will work with the metal in the S&W slide. Brownells's technical staff may have an answer. I've found, however, that heating the metal with a heat gun or hair dryer seems to help. Wipe it down and repeat. And repeat. It's not as time-consuming as it sounds, but wear latex or rubber gloves, as some of the chemicals you'll be using are not friendly. If you cold-reblue it, you'll have to touch-it-up from time to time, but the extra effort is quick, and your total cost will be, maybe, $40 - $50 (much less, if you can find small bottles) and have enough left to do other guns. The alterntiaves will be 4-8 times that cost. The only reason to go this route is $$ savings, but could be pleased with the gun's appearance. Note: this will work, later, if you select the third option, below. Just use this stuff at the first signs of unusual wear in the future.

2) If you're not a cheapskate (like me), the more durable, harder finishes, like the one WVsig first mentioned/recommended, are probably the best long-term solution. And if you're going to spend $200+ (with no hopes of recovering your cost with a later sale of the gun) why not spend an extra $100+ or so and get one that will outlast the gun? Particularly if they can make it look factory fresh. If resale is unlikely to be an option, this is the way to go.

3) A factory-redone finish won't detract from a sale price, while any of these other finishes sometimes can. The S&W redo will make it look like a factory-new gun -- and that will keep you happy for a good while. Should you later decide to sell the gun, and it's still functioning in top form and looking like new or nearly new, THAT may be the best use of your money.

I'm cheap, so I'd try option 1 first, and if that didn't work, go one of the other routes. If it's not satisfactory, you will likely use the purchased materials later... so it's not a total loss.
 
Last edited:
Leave it alone, it looks good.


It won't pit or rust unless you abuse it.


If you must, hard chrome the slide.
 
Bit off the topic but will Smith re-plate a gun that was originally done in nickel?

Never mind, looks like they will do it for $275.
 
Last edited:
Well, this topic came up recently in another member's thread, but I think these 3rd Gen Smith's look great when hard-chromed.

My cop trade-in 4566 was refinished by Tripp Research. They do awesome work and the polished flats look great.

S&W 4566.


Not nearly as good a picture (sorry, the old camera was crap), but years ago I had TR HC the slide of my Smith 1006. The flats were also polished bright. The frame I kept in the bead-blasted finish that Novak's applied back when they did some custom work on it.

That HC over bead-blasted finish makes for a subtle contrast in certain lighting, and I wish I had a dollar for everyone whose eye this gun caught at the range (indoor or outside), and then came over and asked me about it.

That's apart from the attention always drawn by the reverberating boom of real 10mm ammo ... :D

S&W 1006.


:cool:
 
Last edited:
So for now the do nothing has won the day. I might reconsider later but for now it stays as is.

Thank you for everyone's thoughts and input.
 
Back
Top