Looking to get a used .357

chris in va

New member
I've only had semiauto handguns, but wouldn't mind having a revolver for a change. Now when I go to look at used ones, are there any I should definitely steer clear of, and what do I look for regarding safety issues?

Basically this will just be something to fire at the range with .38's, very rarely .357 rounds. My friend's SP101 was great to shoot, so something like that.
 
I don't know how much you are willing to spend, but you can find a used but not abused Python for $850 with some searching. I recommend the Python for the velvet smooth action, cosmetics, and it's value will rise more and more.

As for safety and longevity goes, (whether you get a Colt or a Taurus) look to see if the cylinder locks up tight, make sure it doesn't wiggle around, you know basics... cycle the hammer a few times to feel for any mechanical problems, and watch how the cylinder rotates... you should be a happy man!
 
Basically this will just be something to fire at the range with .38's, very rarely .357 rounds. My friend's SP101 was great to shoot, so something like that.

A used medium-frame Smith or Ruger GP will perform faithful service as a range gun for many decades.
 
I'd look for a Smith K or L Frame gun or a Ruger Security Six or GP model. Good guns to learn on, they are reliable and don't cost an arm and a leg.

Jungle Work
 
One of the Canadian GP100 "turn ins" will make a great gun for what you describe. My dad has one. It's not pretty cosmetically, but shoots well and is tight. I think his was $250 after shipping and transfer, not bad for a revolver that'll handly any factory load (and most "hot" handloads) you can put into it for as long as you care to shoot it.

I haven't seen anything cheaper that's worth owning.

Chris
 
Wow, thanks for the info guys. Looks like Ruger or S&W is the way to go with the tests pointed out in the links.

Just curious though, I like the idea of a firing pin safety or transfer bar. What year did most manufacturers start putting safety devices in their revolvers?
 
Revolvers have had positive safties in them since the early 1900's. They were some form of a hammer block that prevented the primer from being struck unless the trigger was fully pulled to the rear.
I wouldn't count out the older Colt Trooper MkIII or the newer King Cobra from the game.
 
S&W Model 27-2

The N models, 27-2 among them, are superb examples of the state of the art 357 revolver. I've got mine listed at GunsAmerica, where you will find all varieties for sale.

PM me if you want to see some pictures of it.
 
Revolvers have had positive safties in them since the early 1900's. They were some form of a hammer block that prevented the primer from being struck unless the trigger was fully pulled to the rear.

While technically true, S&W revolvers made before about 1944 can discharge if dropped or the hammer struck a hard blow. Reportedly, a S&W "Victory" model was dropped aboard a U.S. Navy ship, discharging and killing a sailor. The Navy investigated and worked with Springfield Armory to create a new design rebound slide. Some 40,000 Victory models were refitted with the new safety bar system in September 1944.

Note that modern (post-war) S&W's are safe to carry fully loaded, but never expect a safety to work under every possible condition.
 
If it is for range use, I recommend a longer barrel length. 6" or more. I find it more pleasurable to shoot and obviously more accurate due to the sight radius.

The S&W 686 6" is a good platform to start with as far as a revolver goes imo. Ruger GP100's are also a good way to go but the trigger is a little heavier. I got so interested in revolvers I ended up getting single action Rugers for some variety. I really enjoy shooting .357 and .44 magnums.
 
Lightly used Smith 19, 66, 586, or 686 with 4" barrel....

Lightly used GP-100 with 4" barrel....

I'd avoid the 6" tube unless the gun will be used strictly for precision target shooting or long range precision shooting. For general use, plinking, defense, etc. the 4" tube is much more practical and maneuverable. Of all my revolvers the one I shoot next to not at all is my one 6" 686 and because of that, I've got a 4" barrel going on it soon.

The most practical, wear resistant, versatile, and durable choices of the above selections:

686 4" or GP-100 stainless 4" - awesome revolvers!
 
686 4" or GP-100 stainless 4" - awesome revolvers!

That's really the best answer (to the extent that any answer could be...). These guns almost literally will last forever, even with Magnum loads, certainly with any .38 load.

A K-frame (66 (SS) or 19 (blued, both w/ adjustable sights) or a Ruger Security Six are a little smaller, a little lighter, and very high quality.

Everyone should own at least one of these...
 
If you can find one, get a Ruger Service Six or Security Six. I paid $225 for my Service Six.

3.jpg
 
Well, my experience with my older 4" 686 (no dash) has been nothing but positive. I heartily recomend them. If you are just going to use yours for range work, or as a hunting handgun, you would probably be best getting a 6" one. Otherwise, I'd opt for a 4" one like what I have, it is a more general purpose barrel length. IMHO, if you really want it for carry purposes, you should pass on the 686, as it isn't lightweight by any measure. Unless, of course, you aren't put off by the weight. That said, don't overlook the GP-100's, either.
 
The Knox TN gunshow 2 weeks ago had 3 practically new Colt Troopers MK111 in 357mag for $275 an $300. Most of the Troopers are surpurb shooters and will last as long as the best made.
If your shooting 50 yards and under tget the 4" bbl and 50 an over get the 6" bbl.
BEFORE you buy anything. If you think you might like to shoot in some of the shooting games like IDPA, check out the wheel guns they are shooting.
Shooting a wheelie in some IDPA matches is a blast!!
 
Here is the way I invariably choose my next revolver..........

I put $250-$300 in my pocket.
I drive to a Pawn Shop.
My eye gets caught by a pretty.
I do Jim March's Checkout (link above).
I dicker a bit.
I leave with my latest revolver.

As long as you stick with a S&W, a Colt, or even the Rugers listed, and do Jim's checkout procedure, you will be happy. Unfortunately you will also be hooked, and you will soon be doing the same thing again.
 
The GP-100 would probably be your best bet for your first used revolver...their nearly impossible to wear out so dont worry to much about getting a dud. If for some slim chance that you do buy one thats worn past its time, just send it to ruger and they'll fix it up...usually for free. Used GPs can usaully be found for less than 300 dollars or around 400 or so new. The Smith 686s are nice, a little more refined, but also, a little bit more money.
 
A Ruger Security Six would be a good first revolver - I see tham for about $250 all the time. They are about indestructable The Ruger trigger has a very different feel from the Smith, but once you get used to it it's fine.

You can also find Smith and Wesson revolvers for $350 or so that will be excellent, al little smoother handling than the Rugers.

Good luck - Enjoy your search, and like the man said, you will be back for more.


Mark

PS I own 2 Smith Model 19's and a Ruger Vaquero.

I'm looking for more.
 
Back
Top