LongRange Setup

Yeah, at first I thought, well...that's a good thing, now minimum adjustment at 1000 yards is 1-1/4" instead of 2-1/2"...but it seems to come at the cost of a smaller range of adjustment.
 
I think the best way to zero one's sights is to get a shooting zero first at 100 yards. Then lower your sight's elevation whatever's needed to move impact down equal to bullet drop at 100 plus sight height above bore. 3.5 inches is about right for most scoped .30-06 rifles. This puts the scope's reticule axis well aligned with the bore axis as far as shooting is concerned. Finally, loosen the elevation and windage adjustment turrets, move them to zero then tighten them. Now if you need to come up 25 MOA to zero at 600 yards, just move elevation up that much from zero.

If one uses a 20 MOA rail under their scope, they should still be able to zero at 100 yards. And coming up 45 or so MOA to zero at 1000 will still be within the scope's reasonable windage adjustment range. But you'll have to check your scope out to see how much windage you have on both sides of zero; there's usually more on one side than the other.
 
He likely won't be able to come up 45...
Estimate 18 up with a zero moa base (half of his 36 moa total), plus the 20 he gains= approx 38 MOA up from zero.
 
If there is one function that IIRC USO has over every other top optic manufacturer it's the ability to manually control the erector for max elevation travel out of the scope. Which is miraculous for shooting long range.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top