Long Range German K98 Mauser

Finished stock

After separating the barreled action from the stock to verify the glass bedding, I painted the stock O/D Green and sprayed a nice coat of Hotrod Sating clear coat. I like the results. Now the only thing missing is the scope, which should be in my hands by Wednesday. Get it boresighted, zeroed and then go and ring some steel!:D

After the scope upgrade I will call this project done. I need to take more pictures when there is not much sun light out there.




 
Update

Finally had the time to snap some good pictures of the rifle with the new SWFA SS 16X42 scope. I am a happy camper. Now will take it to the range to zero it and hit some steel.



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Ain't she purrty? :D
 
Nice looking build.
I bought one of the Tacticool's (just to see what the competition's doing :)) and my beef was the very low comb...but looks like you solved that problem with a Choate (?) riser.

Let us know how it shoots with the SWFA optic. If everything's tight, that optic will deliver. Looks like a lot of vertical spread with the initial groups, you'll find out if that was due to velocity spread or the old optic.

I'll never own another LR rifle without a brake. It's sweet being able to spot your hits at 1000 yards without needing a spotter.

When I'm done with my current Mosin-Nagant build I'm really considering a Mauser build. I've "built" our very accurate long-range Savages, but to me they're more of an "assembly", than a build to learn some smithing skills.

Was that a short chambered barrel, that you did the finish reaming by hand to set headspace? Any other accurizing of the action (lap lugs, true receiver face)?

Nothing like one you built yourself. Hope she delivers for you.
 
I wouldn't put any bedding epoxy anywhere under the barrel. Totally free float it with at least 1/16 inch clearance. The receiver is plenty strong to hold the barrel. Any epoxy between the barrel and stock transfers forces bending the fore end to the barrel. All fore ends bend. Bedding pads under the chamber typically cause vertical shot stringing as the barrel expands from heat.
 
@tobnpr

Thank you for the compliments! I am enjoying it very much. Like you say, there is nothing better than shooting something built by yourself.

Yes, I had to use the cheek riser to solve the comb height problem. I do not even know what brand it is, I bought it from amazon as an universal cheek riser. 10 bucks.

I already took it to the range to get it zeroed with the new scope, but I did not bother in trying to get good groups at 100 yards. Got it zeroed and then started ringing steel at 300 and 500 yards. It was very consistent and the adjustments were very repeatable up to 500 yards and back down to zero. I am very happy with the quality of the scope. I would say it is one of the best options out there for people like me, that don't have $1,500 just laying around for a NF or Leupod scope. I do have to get rid of the Leupold one piece mount and rings. Giving me a lot of trouble with loose windage screws after 40 or 60 rounds. Thinking of getting a Farrell MOA rail base and Badger rings next month. Less adjustments, less variables to worry about.

I really agree with you on the brakes, I do like mine very much. I usually shoot on the prone position on bipod, so the brake helps me stay on target after each shot, as well as being able to see my hits. Before the brake, the rifle actually jumped from the ground and I had to re-position everything again to re-engage the target. Not fun. I have had plenty of mall ninjas tell me that I am a sissy or whatever for liking brakes, but I don't care. A good brake is the way to go for me, I prefer long "heavy sporter" contour barrel profiles instead of a heavy bull profile.

The barrel is a Wilson Arms 26", #4 contour barrel. It came pre-threaded and with a short chamber. I did ream and finish the chamber by hand to proper headspace specs for .308. The receiver face was verified before installing the new barrel and everything was looking good. Did not lap the lugs.

I really like Mauser actions because they are not extremely expensive and the average Joe that has some skills can build a quality long range rifle for a decent amount of cash. Not cheap, but more affordable and than most of the stuff you can buy out there. My gunsmith is an old man, very friendly, one of those that like to pass on their knowledge, and he has basically guided me through the whole build process. He is been in the business for nearly 50 years, so his knowledge in Mauser builds is very extensive. Very glad to be friends with him, and to be his apprentice.
 
very sweet

Nice work. The quality of design and steelwork of late war manufacturing remains impressive to this day.
 
Very very nice. But once you re-barrel it, I might quarrel a bit with the designation "long range K98" and would instead call it "long range custom rig on a 98 Mauser action". But potato / po-taht-o.
 
Range trip

Forgot to post this picture from my latest trip to the range. The target was a 10" x 8" steel plate at 500 yards. 3 shot group measuring a bit more than 2 1/2" using cheap Wolf Military Classic ammo. The new scope and the glass bedding made a huge difference. Sometime soon I will use Hornady Match .308 Win 168gr. HPBT, see what groupings I get.

 
Since you mentioned the rings....

I've got a pair of Badger rings sitting on a Badger base on a Remington 700 .243 that I put together that are phenominal. At first I had a hard time getting used to the fact that I was spending as much on rings and a base as I had previously on glass, but it was a two year project and it was a Leupold LR/T that I was mounting so I went all out, and have not regretted it a bit, those are absolutely spectacular rings.
 
Nice. About the only thing I would have done a little differently would be to give the bolt knob a slight sweep back. It would improve its look.
 
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