Lock tite ??

C

C7AR15

New member
If i use the blue lock tite on the screws on my scope base mounts, which are
1/8 Dia. Will I be able to remove those screws later???

I know red is the Permanent stuff. But I have been told that even the non -permanent stuff (blue) will be impossible to remove????

Where Lies the Truth?? What kind of experiences have you had???

Thanks JD
 
I have read that touching the tip of a soldering iron for 5-10 seconds to the screw head will heat the screw sufficiently to destroy the LocTite's bond.
 
You can remove the blue stuff without heat. The red stuff is a different story and I would never use it on my guns.
 
Blue is no problem. Red is and entirely different story. I have frequently used the blue, it holds the screws well but they can be removed if necessary.
 
Be advised,squeezing the little tube into the hole is not recommended.Blurp!Sometimes these are through holes,and the loctite goes where it is not wanted.If it is a blind hole,too much will create a hydraulic stop.

A little on the screw works.Degrease and dry first.Blue is not a problem.
 
Blue "shouldn't" be a problem. I worry a little bit on smaller diameter screws, #8's are usually ok as long as it is a quality fastener but anything smaller then that or if the quality is unknown then I go purple.

And yeah like he ^ said don't just squirt it in the hole!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks

Thanks Guys/(girls?),

What a good website for info .

it's like going to the gunclub clubhouse and chatting with the gang.!!!

Remember : that thing is loaded. JD
 
I have only used red on my guns for over 40 years. The tube even says "medium" holding strength.
Removing screws is no problem. A little extra muscle maybe, but no problem.
 
Loctite® Threadlockers and Retaining Compounds



Note: Primers are recommended when working with aluminum, black-oxide finishes, cadmium, stainless steel, titanium, and zinc. See Loctite® 7649™ Primer N™.
Threadlockers
Prevent threaded metal fasteners from loosening due to shock and vibration and protect them from most solvents and harsh environments. Low and medium strength can be removed with a hand tool. High strength require heat and a hand tool.

220™—For 1/4" dia. and smaller fasteners.

222™—For 1/4" dia. and smaller fasteners.

222MS™—For 1/4" dia. and smaller fasteners. NSF-P1 certified for food-processing areas.

242®—For 1/4" to 3/4" dia. fasteners. 8.45 oz. (250 ml) size is NSF 61 certified for use with drinking water systems.

243™—For fasteners 1/4" to 3/4" dia. Resists oil. 8.45 oz. (250 ml) size is NSF 61 certified for use with drinking water systems.

246™—For fasteners 1/4" to 3/4" dia.

262™—For fasteners up to 3/4" dia. subject to high vibration and shock. Resists oils. Great for Grade 5 and 8 fasteners.

263™—For permanent locking of fasteners up to 3/4" dia. Prevents loosening and leakage due to vibration and shock.

266™—For fasteners up to 3/4" dia. Resists oils and contaminants.

271™—For up to 1" dia. fasteners. Ideal for harsh applications and tamperproofing. UL listed.

272™—For bolts up to 1 1/2" dia.

277™—For use with fasteners up to 1 1/2" dia.

290™—For locking assembled fasteners up to 1/2" dia. 8.45 oz. (250 ml) size is NSF 61 certified for use with drinking water systems.

294™—Strong bonds even on oily fasteners.

425™—Super glue (cyanoacrylate) for metal and plastic fasteners.

2432™—Has low sulfur content for sensitive metals such as titanium.

2760™—Strong bonds even on oily unprimed fasteners. Use for heavy duty applications, such as construction and railroad equipment.
 
Blue breaks loose relatively easy. I have used it on some pretty tiny machine screws. Use it on my slide mounted Tasco reflex sight on my 1911. I have not had a problem breaking loose the small Allen screws that hold it to the base and I’ve take it off to change batteries at least a dozen times over the year.

I just put red on the screws in my scope bases on my 06 because the blue didn’t hold. I would not use red on the ring screws though. Blue or red can be broken loose easily one of two ways… heat or impact. If it doesn’t feel like it is going to break loose before you strip something uses whatever fits the screw, i.e. Allen socket or screwdriver inserted and give it a good whack with a hammer. The Loctite will turn to powder. One of the reason I wouldn’t use the red on the ring screws is I wouldn’t want to have to give them a good whack with the scope in them. :eek:
 
FWIW , most hardware and automotive shops have so-called permanant - 'red' and removable - 'blue'. BUT , when it comes to industrial threadlockers , different manufacturers may use different colors. And not everyone has it's own color. In Loctite brand alone , there are several different reds and blues and greens. it's the number on the bottle that counts.
 
Screw thread sealer

I HAVE USED CLEAR "SALLY HANSEN HARD-AS-NAILS" CLEAR FINGERNAIL POLISH FOR THIS VERY PURPOSE QUITE SUCCESSFULLY FOR THE PAST 30+ YEARS. IF YOU NEED TO PAINT THE FRONT SITE ON A PISTOL (hot electric pink is my fav) DRY THE PAINT WITH A HAIRDRYER, THEN PUT A LIGHT COAT OF THE CLEAR ON TOP OF THE PAINT TO SEAL & PROTECT FROM HOLSTER WEAR.

IT IS ALSO EXCELLENT TO HAVE ON YOUR WORKBENCH TO PAINT A COAT ON TOP OF THE MINOR CUTS & SCRAPES WE ALL GET FROM TIME TO TIME. AFTER IT DRIES, COVER WITH AN ADHESIVE BANDAGE.

GURU1911
 
I worked for an airline years ago and we used red, yellow, blue, green and purple Loctite products in various applications.

All of them can be broken down with moderate heat.
 
Just to clarify. I use genuine Loctite products, 242 Blue, 263 Red. On firearms and accessories 242 Blue has served me well and when it hasn’t 263 Red has done the trick. :)
 
Actually, the best Loctite I find to use for scope mounting seems to be difficult to find. The GREEN Loctite
Click to expand...

Just be sure to avoid the green bearing retaining compound (271?). :eek:

I've broke BIG bolts after using that stuff.
 
The ideal stuff would be the 222MS (machine screw) or purple.
Click to expand...

I'm with this guy. My only concern with blue or red would be because of the small dia. hardware. I don't know if you'd be able to get sufficient torque to break them free with a hex key, and depending on how soft your hardware is you could round them before you break them free. I've seen small hardware bits hard as diamonds, and as soft as cheese... Oh and remember, only apply to the first three threads not the hole ;)
 
As I said earlier, I use the Blue 242 on my “old” Tasco reflex site on my 1911 for years. It takes two “small/tiny” Allen screws. I’ve broken them loose, cleaned and re-Loctighted them at least a dozen times in the last ten years to replace the batteries. If you are using quality screws and tools there shouldn’t be a problem. Soft screws and or cheep wrench and one or the other will probably strip.
 
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