Loading Black Powder Pistol Cartridges

I posted this question on other forums and am looking for information from all sources.
I’ll start with a bit about myself. You can call me John E.B Rawton. I consider myself a very casual cowboy shooter and never race the clock. Usually my down fall is adrenaline causing me to ready, fire, aim mostly.
I prefer to shoot Josey Wales in gunfighter using uberti made walkers converted to .45 cartridge and two uberti .38s. (1851 and 1860 RM) I often switch between the .38 and .45 for rifle targets depending on the stage. I have only used Trailboss but now I am considering something new.
I currently load a 200g rnfp .454 colt and mainly a 125g tc .358 38 spl.
I am being pulled to the other side and am curious about loading these cartridges with BP.
Recommendations on powder charge, bullet weight and assembly would be great. I’ve read a lot of internet info and realize personal preference has something to do with it. I’d like to get off on the right foot.
Thanks.
 
A full load in a .45 Colt will be about 37 grains of powder. You don't want an air space. If you want a lighter load use a filler like cornmeal to take up the air space.
 
For pistol cartridges it's not much different than normal reloading,
with these rules:

- (as Hawg said) Completely full case to base+ of bullet, vibrated down to max natural compaction*
- I suggest 3F powder
- Soft bullet allot 30:1 or even plain lead
- Soft bullet lube, not regular commercial lube unless specifically-made for BP**

* vibrate the powder to lowest point to determine what "full case to bullet base" really means. Seat bullet firmly to powder, but do not use the bullet to compress the powder. You will deform the bullet.

** BP lubes are 2:1 crisco/beewax, DGL, SPG, etc.

Expect more performance, recoil, and muzzleflash than you'd guess ;)
Clean up w/ hot water and a drop or two of dishwashing soap. Dry/oil thoroughly,
 
A brass drop tube helps settle the powder. I have gone to Alliant Black MZ for most of my cartridge loads. Fowling is different than true black, and you don't have to use blackpowder lube. That said, don't shy away from true black because of the cleanup. The potential for corrosion comes from the fact that the fowling is hygroscopic, not corrosive itself. Hot water is your solvent.

Good luck. It's addictive.
 
I’ve watched a few videos of people using standard cowboy bullets and removing the smokeless lube then applying a bp lube. Is there a need to do that with substitutes?
 
"Some" people have used regular ALOX-based (but soft) lube w/ Pyrodex.
But most all the informed;) cognoscenti recommend BP-specific/organically-based* very soft lube.

* Vegetable oils/animal fats
 
Your bullets may not carry enough lube for the length of a rifle barrel. I load a reduced bp charge topped off with Cream O Wheat then add a little bp lube before seating the bullet. Had thought about buying Big Lube Bullets, but being "cheep" this allows me to use my "smokeless" cast bullets.
 
At the moment I plan to keep the black to my revolvers which are 7.5”, 8.0” and 9.0”. I was also reading about Alliant Black MZ which claims that one uses no lube what so ever. I do not know if I can load .38 with it.
All this black powder this and substitute that gets to be a head spinner.
 
1. Stick w/ real BP. It's simpler than you think.
2. Stick w/ soft/organic lubes
3. You're not going to even come close to running out BP/soft lubes in pistol length barrels* using any normal grooved/lubed/Keith cast design like this:

Lyman_428421_Keith_only.jpg


*(Not even rifle barrels either ;) )
.
 
Buy a copy of The Lyman BP Handbook and Reloading Guide. Has data and a how-to for BP cartridges. $23.98US direct from Lyman. Pretty decent read too.
The most important part of loading with BP is that it's done in grains by volume, not mass like Trail Boss is loaded.
 
Yeah, you want to ditch the smokeless lube. I use a Lee 200 grain RNFP in my 44-40's with homemade beeswax/olive oil lube. It's fine in revolvers but they do run a little dry in my 20 inch carbine.
 
I had made my decision as I was pushing the lawn mower and listening to a Star Wars galaxy story. The way I do things are all out and if I’m going to shoot BP I can’t see me using subs. Will I need a finer powder for .38 or will fffg work fine in .45 colt and .38 special
 
When I started BP cartridges, there were no substitutes. I don't mind the cleaning at all and have never used a sub for BP.

I have used crisco, lard, etc., and now used mostly Bore Butter since it comes in a easy to use tube and stores well in my box.

I also use pure lead bullets and balls. Veggie wads are good for a filler and many online sellers have them. For a little extra, you can get lubed veggie wads.
 
I have used crisco, lard, etc., and now used mostly Bore Butter since it comes in a easy to use tube and stores well in my box.

I'd worry about Crisco and Bore Butter leaching into the powder when it gets hot.
 
I'd worry about Crisco and Bore Butter leaching into the powder when it gets hot.

I have been using them since 1969 and have never had that problem.

Not saying that it can't, just saying that I never had a problem with it.

I load all straight wall cases (rifle and handgun); have never loaded any tapered cartridges with BP.
 
I have been using them since 1969 and have never had that problem.

Not saying that it can't, just saying that I never had a problem with it.

I load all straight wall cases (rifle and handgun); have never loaded any tapered cartridges with BP.

Cool!:cool: I used Bore Butter on some .58 minies once and that was a mistake since it was about 90 degrees when I decided to use them. I started with bp in 69 but didn't get into bp cartridges til about 10 years ago.
 
My first ventures with BP had me shooting a 58 cal Hawken replica. Then I got my first handgun in 45 cal. and a few years after, cap & ball. I guess I would call myself a traditionalist as I don't think much of the 209 type firearms.

I use a wad over the powder (always have), So I think that has helped me avoid the lube in the powder scenario.
 
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