Limp wrist question...new to autos

What I am wondering here is if a large slow moving 'plug' (a heavier bullet) would provide more recoil on spring than a lighter faster bullet, and insure a complete cycle in spite of the grip?

No.

next question.

It is odd that "limp wristing" was never a problem in the old days. It is extremely rare to find any discussion about it before the widespread use of polymer frame pistols. Also very rare to find any discussion about it in pre-internet gun magazines and books.

Stovepipes, and other jams were in those day attributed (probably correctly) to other causes, generally.

The simple fact is that auto pistols require something to recoil against for proper function. And that some are more sensitive about it than others.

Your specific grip style doesn't matter. What matters is that the gun has a "solid" force to push back against. In very small calibers the inertia of the pistol itself may be fully sufficient. Particularly with blow back action designs. Larger locked breech designs will also often run fine no matter how they are held. But (apparently) some guns won't.

I've been shooting auto pistols for recreation for over 40 years, in calibers ranging from .22LR to .45magnum. Some guns will work better when held certain ways. But there is no overall blanket that applies to everything, other than that some guns will display traits that make it "different from the herd".

If someone tells you that your troubles are limp wristing, let them shoot your gun, and see! IT may be you. IT may not.

If it is you, going to a heavier bullet won't change that.
 
Limp wristing really has nothing to do with grip or stance, its caused by allowing the gun and your arm to move rearwards with recoil.

I agree; call it "limp arming", if you will. Doing that will almost guarantee stovepipes in many autos, particularly polymer framed ones from what I've found in my own experimentation.
 
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