Lee turret or progressive press
- Thread starter Wendyj
- Start date
Dillon out of my price range so I chose the classic turret press. I've ran 1000,s of rounds on my single stage classic cast so I think for what I need this should work. Had to order another mounting plate from Inline Fabrication so I can switch out presses. Ordered a riser, priming system, and precision powder thrower from Amazon. All was right at 210.00 and free shipping. I've got rcbs 9 mm and Lee 223 and no powder thru dies so I have more to buy. Will try it out on 45 colt first.
You'll be fine with what you picked. It takes me right around 20 minutes to make a box of handgun ammo with the LCT, not counting setup time. Changing calibers takes less than five minutes, including changing the powder dispenser over. I use Unique a good bit, and the Pro disk usually gets me +/- 0.1 grain, with an occasional 0.2 grain variance.
I've passed the 10,000 rd mark on my LCT in the last 5 years - mostly .40, some 9mm for friends and family and I can get 50 rds in 20 to 25 minutes if I'm using primed brass. I don't use a thrower - but hand measure each load of titegroup. I religiously put a drop of oil on the main cylinder and at the edge of the turret on each use. 3 years in I got a rockchucker single stage to swage .40 custom hollow points, but I don't use it for reloading.
Wendyj, congratulations on your new press. Not much different than a single stage press other than once you adjust to using it and the powder measure you will get faster as you will not be removing and replacing the case after each step as when batch loading on a single stage.
The Lee powder measures are pretty consistent with every pistol powder I've tried. Enjoy!
The Lee powder measures are pretty consistent with every pistol powder I've tried. Enjoy!
JeepHammer
Moderator
Wendy,
If your goal is 100/hr. You can do that on the WAY cheaper than $500...
Lee 'Classic Turret' press.
Doesn't matter if it's the 3 hole or 4 hole tool head version.
I avoid Loadmaster or 'Pro' machines like the plague.
This is my favorite Lee 'Slow' press, and for $70-$80 this is hard to beat.
This is the press I use most outside of my Dillon production presses.
The DIRT CHEAP quick change tool heads get a workout decapping rounds, universal decapper, tearing down questionable rounds (didn't pass QC), along with banging out the occasional small batch oddball caliber rounds I don't want to set up & tune the Dillon for (usually 100 rounds or less, or calibers I only knock 100 rounds out every couple years)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LEE-single...767595?hash=item25f3e69fab:g:RrEAAOSwdBZazjf8
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nice-Lee-T...728687?hash=item3630aab86f:g:2agAAOSwXrBa3n7C
I don't like any of Lee AUTO indexing presses, inaccurate when they do run, break often.
Besides the tool heads (Cheap) there is nothing at all proprietary about this press, common dies work just fine, so do common shell holders, and once adjusted in the tool head, no more die adjustments unless something wears!
Tool head changes are 5 seconds for caliber changes.
A flick of the wrist allows die changes... From sizing to seating to factory crimp die (if you use one).
3 holes are enough for 99% of what home reloaders do anyway, so 4th & 5th holes are wasted anyway.
With seater/crimp die you can run a powder thrower in the tool head, but I like more control over primer seating than any of the Lee machines offer...
I deprime/resize, then install primer manually (hand prime tool) and while I have the case in my hand, just go ahead and charge (powder) the case, back into the loading block waiting it's turn at the press.
The deal with powder dropper on a progressive press, you need TWO holes, one for the powder dropper AND one for the powder checker! If you run progressive, you MUST have an open hole for powder inspection! Just too easy to get under/over charge!
------
Although I know you hate the price of Dillon, it's actually worth the money up front, before you tool up for more common machines!
While Dillon makes you cry once, it works from there on out, and is pretty easily adjusted for ANYTHING you are doing from that point forward.
Keep in mind the replacement parts are FREE, Dillon has a 100% NO B.S. guarantee, and trust me, I've called them on it!
Buy once, cry once.
While Dillon will support some common dies, Dillon dies work remarkably well,
Everything else on a Dillon is proprietary, but I believe everything but the case feeder is covered under warranty... They have replace my dies, and more than once...
What I might suggest for the 'In Between' is the Dillon SBD (Square Deal B) package.
Comes in around your price range and does about every pistol caliber round GREAT.
There are a couple aftermarket (haven't used them) kits that allow for .223 but I'd be hesitant to screw one of them onto an SBS since it works so well with pistol rounds, and it has a lot of parts that have to be swapped over...
About all my pistol rounds are cranked out on an SBD, it's just so fast & easy to use and just kicks the crap out of all the other progressive loaders! I don't load but a few thousand pistol a year, but this is the machine to have if you go through a bunch of 9mm or .45 ACP (hard to hold cases).
Works great on rimmed rounds also, easy to change tool heads, primer swap takes a little effort, but not nearly what a 550 or 650 does!
The Dillon Case feeder is $250 which leaves you butthurt, but it's darn handy!
I build case feeders out of 5 gal. Buckets & grill motors or $15 eBay gear motors and they work pretty good. Don't know how handy at 'Tinkering' you are, but it's a $40-$50 alternative you might consider.
If your goal is 100/hr. You can do that on the WAY cheaper than $500...
Lee 'Classic Turret' press.
Doesn't matter if it's the 3 hole or 4 hole tool head version.
I avoid Loadmaster or 'Pro' machines like the plague.
This is my favorite Lee 'Slow' press, and for $70-$80 this is hard to beat.
This is the press I use most outside of my Dillon production presses.
The DIRT CHEAP quick change tool heads get a workout decapping rounds, universal decapper, tearing down questionable rounds (didn't pass QC), along with banging out the occasional small batch oddball caliber rounds I don't want to set up & tune the Dillon for (usually 100 rounds or less, or calibers I only knock 100 rounds out every couple years)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LEE-single...767595?hash=item25f3e69fab:g:RrEAAOSwdBZazjf8
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nice-Lee-T...728687?hash=item3630aab86f:g:2agAAOSwXrBa3n7C
I don't like any of Lee AUTO indexing presses, inaccurate when they do run, break often.
Besides the tool heads (Cheap) there is nothing at all proprietary about this press, common dies work just fine, so do common shell holders, and once adjusted in the tool head, no more die adjustments unless something wears!
Tool head changes are 5 seconds for caliber changes.
A flick of the wrist allows die changes... From sizing to seating to factory crimp die (if you use one).
3 holes are enough for 99% of what home reloaders do anyway, so 4th & 5th holes are wasted anyway.
With seater/crimp die you can run a powder thrower in the tool head, but I like more control over primer seating than any of the Lee machines offer...
I deprime/resize, then install primer manually (hand prime tool) and while I have the case in my hand, just go ahead and charge (powder) the case, back into the loading block waiting it's turn at the press.
The deal with powder dropper on a progressive press, you need TWO holes, one for the powder dropper AND one for the powder checker! If you run progressive, you MUST have an open hole for powder inspection! Just too easy to get under/over charge!
------
Although I know you hate the price of Dillon, it's actually worth the money up front, before you tool up for more common machines!
While Dillon makes you cry once, it works from there on out, and is pretty easily adjusted for ANYTHING you are doing from that point forward.
Keep in mind the replacement parts are FREE, Dillon has a 100% NO B.S. guarantee, and trust me, I've called them on it!
Buy once, cry once.
While Dillon will support some common dies, Dillon dies work remarkably well,
Everything else on a Dillon is proprietary, but I believe everything but the case feeder is covered under warranty... They have replace my dies, and more than once...
What I might suggest for the 'In Between' is the Dillon SBD (Square Deal B) package.
Comes in around your price range and does about every pistol caliber round GREAT.
There are a couple aftermarket (haven't used them) kits that allow for .223 but I'd be hesitant to screw one of them onto an SBS since it works so well with pistol rounds, and it has a lot of parts that have to be swapped over...
About all my pistol rounds are cranked out on an SBD, it's just so fast & easy to use and just kicks the crap out of all the other progressive loaders! I don't load but a few thousand pistol a year, but this is the machine to have if you go through a bunch of 9mm or .45 ACP (hard to hold cases).
Works great on rimmed rounds also, easy to change tool heads, primer swap takes a little effort, but not nearly what a 550 or 650 does!
The Dillon Case feeder is $250 which leaves you butthurt, but it's darn handy!
I build case feeders out of 5 gal. Buckets & grill motors or $15 eBay gear motors and they work pretty good. Don't know how handy at 'Tinkering' you are, but it's a $40-$50 alternative you might consider.
JeepHammer
Moderator
I also applaud you on your 'Busy' work!
My wife & I are ALWAYS busy with something...
There is a reason so many of our 'Gadgets' are on roll around carts, if there is something we want to watch on TV, we can switch out the 'Busy' work to suit us.
She does knitting, needle point, does business books, arranges dried weeds that sell for mega cash to 'City-iots', etc.
I reload, work on small projects, etc.
It's amazing what you can get done when you aren't sitting slack jawed!
If you go with Lee powder thrower, there are 'Upgrades', one is a sheet of plain window glass & lapping compound. You are working with plastic, so stay fine grit.
Flattening out the powder disk, and in some cases the slider rails will help control powder & prevent hang-ups. A good RCBS or Redding powder thrower (micrometer adjustment & metal construction) saves a lot of irritation & work.
There are aftermarket primer arms for those presses that work MUCH better than the factory arms, that's assuming you don't use a hand primer already.
I've always had issues with getting Lee to seat primers uniformly since there isn't any provision for different depth primer holes (mixed brass loading).
Lee is single depth stop or nothing, no 'Cushion' provision, so it's crushed or not seated fully most of the time unless you develope a real feel for that long action arm on the press.
Just not quite as consistent as I like...
If you REALLY want to speed up single loading, scoop up on of those little Lee 'C' frame single presses off eBay and buy a 'Universal' decapping die!
Knock the primer caps out right away so the pocket gets cleaned.
Shell holder change is all it takes to decap almost any brass.
I shortened the handle on my 'Decapping Press' since it just doesn't take a lot of force to get caps out, even when they are crimped in. Shorter handle just made it easier/faster/less effort to knock the caps out.
You can leave in, or remove the decapping pin in the sizing die, doesn't matter since there aren't any caps to deal with.
With caps gone, no more bent sizing die pins that are such a pain to change!
Some people leave them in to clear the flash hole while processing... Not a bad idea if you are using walnut polish media or steel pins...
I grind mine down a little more tapered since I'm not battling a cap, just poking out carbon/media at most, the extra taper helps it find the flash hole in loose/ wobbly shell holders (while sizing).
Streamlining the PROCESS, no matter what press you use, is what speeds things up.
1. I decapping dirty, initial inspection for cracks etc., Throw directly into cleaning.
2. When they come out of cleaning, inspect clean as they are going into the hand prime tool.
This includes a quick peek inside the case to see if flash hole is plugged, it's a strange primer size (small primer .45 ACP in particular) or it's one of those 'Stepped' (reduced volume) cases that show up in 9mm a lot lately.
Better feel with a hand primer, and hand primers with feed bins are cheap.
OR,
You *Can* size, punch flash holes right out of cleaning, and install primer on the machine, but that's another pass in & out of the press, which I don't care to do.
3. Off to the press for sizing, powder, seater/crimping die.
Since the primer is gone & new primer in place, for me I remove the decapping pin from common decapping/sizer dies.
With a manual tool head, you can stop & 'Bump' something not quite right, but manual requires flicking the tool head manually one die station. (Which I don't mind too much when doing small batches).
Auto rotation means removing the brass and/or short stroking the press two times to come back around to the die you need for the 'Bump' to correct anything you find...
Tool head auto rotation is up to you, if the powder dropper is 'Automatic' you might just want to remove the brass and stroke the machine two more times to get the die you want to correct the issue you found.
If you manually powder your cases, then a powder thrower STAND with a deep enough throat to accommodate your loading blocks really speeds things up.
Stands are cheap and the right one speeds things up like crazy!
There is no way I'd use a Lee thrower with a powder like 'TiteGroup', simply not accurate enough.
TiteGroup is POWERFUL, a little makes a BIG difference, and it's easily possible to double or triple charge cases using it.
Since so little is used, it's also possible to squib a round even with visual inspection... I know experienced reloaders that have done it, so I weigh TiteGroup now...
Just a warning, don't know if you use TiteGroup or the like or not.
One thing no one considers when they get a new press is a bench for that press...
This goes a LOT faster/smoother when the bench fits you!
I start with the top, what height? Constantly reaching up or reaching down for the press handle swing is hard on your neck, shoulder, elbow and tires you out.
Shoulders in particular can be damaged with repetitive movement...
The second thing I do is inset the press in the top,
No Knee Or Hip Busters!
No presses cantilevered over the edge where they get leverage on the bench and wobble around, bang the bench off the wall, etc!
There are usually front & rear bolts securing the press to the bench,
Funny thing is, a 2"x4" or 2"x6" on edge will usually fit right in between those bolt hole sets, allowing you to stiffen up the bench top.
No more bowing or bouncing of the press/bench top.
NOT chasing the press helps a LOT and speeds things up & reduces fatigue.
I like my bench tops a little higher than you see most people have them.
First off, I use a chair my knees bend at 90* angle, and my feet are FLAT on the floor, and something with a back on it to support my back. (No 'Stools' for me!)
The bench top a little higher means I'm NOT reaching down for things, and I don't need a 'Riser' for the press.
A reasonable depth of bench means I'm not leaning forward all the time to chase primer tool, cases, etc on the bench top. Inset press means I'm not sitting way back from the top either, keeping things in easy reach while still at the press. Loading blocks, bullet boxes etc sit beside the press instead of behind the press hanging off the bench.
This is particularly true for Lee presses since they cantilever a good bit over the bench top sticking out in space... When they don't really have to...
Just some ideas since you are getting deeper into reloading with a new machine.
My wife & I are ALWAYS busy with something...
There is a reason so many of our 'Gadgets' are on roll around carts, if there is something we want to watch on TV, we can switch out the 'Busy' work to suit us.
She does knitting, needle point, does business books, arranges dried weeds that sell for mega cash to 'City-iots', etc.
I reload, work on small projects, etc.
It's amazing what you can get done when you aren't sitting slack jawed!
If you go with Lee powder thrower, there are 'Upgrades', one is a sheet of plain window glass & lapping compound. You are working with plastic, so stay fine grit.
Flattening out the powder disk, and in some cases the slider rails will help control powder & prevent hang-ups. A good RCBS or Redding powder thrower (micrometer adjustment & metal construction) saves a lot of irritation & work.
There are aftermarket primer arms for those presses that work MUCH better than the factory arms, that's assuming you don't use a hand primer already.
I've always had issues with getting Lee to seat primers uniformly since there isn't any provision for different depth primer holes (mixed brass loading).
Lee is single depth stop or nothing, no 'Cushion' provision, so it's crushed or not seated fully most of the time unless you develope a real feel for that long action arm on the press.
Just not quite as consistent as I like...
If you REALLY want to speed up single loading, scoop up on of those little Lee 'C' frame single presses off eBay and buy a 'Universal' decapping die!
Knock the primer caps out right away so the pocket gets cleaned.
Shell holder change is all it takes to decap almost any brass.
I shortened the handle on my 'Decapping Press' since it just doesn't take a lot of force to get caps out, even when they are crimped in. Shorter handle just made it easier/faster/less effort to knock the caps out.
You can leave in, or remove the decapping pin in the sizing die, doesn't matter since there aren't any caps to deal with.
With caps gone, no more bent sizing die pins that are such a pain to change!
Some people leave them in to clear the flash hole while processing... Not a bad idea if you are using walnut polish media or steel pins...
I grind mine down a little more tapered since I'm not battling a cap, just poking out carbon/media at most, the extra taper helps it find the flash hole in loose/ wobbly shell holders (while sizing).
Streamlining the PROCESS, no matter what press you use, is what speeds things up.
1. I decapping dirty, initial inspection for cracks etc., Throw directly into cleaning.
2. When they come out of cleaning, inspect clean as they are going into the hand prime tool.
This includes a quick peek inside the case to see if flash hole is plugged, it's a strange primer size (small primer .45 ACP in particular) or it's one of those 'Stepped' (reduced volume) cases that show up in 9mm a lot lately.
Better feel with a hand primer, and hand primers with feed bins are cheap.
OR,
You *Can* size, punch flash holes right out of cleaning, and install primer on the machine, but that's another pass in & out of the press, which I don't care to do.
3. Off to the press for sizing, powder, seater/crimping die.
Since the primer is gone & new primer in place, for me I remove the decapping pin from common decapping/sizer dies.
With a manual tool head, you can stop & 'Bump' something not quite right, but manual requires flicking the tool head manually one die station. (Which I don't mind too much when doing small batches).
Auto rotation means removing the brass and/or short stroking the press two times to come back around to the die you need for the 'Bump' to correct anything you find...
Tool head auto rotation is up to you, if the powder dropper is 'Automatic' you might just want to remove the brass and stroke the machine two more times to get the die you want to correct the issue you found.
If you manually powder your cases, then a powder thrower STAND with a deep enough throat to accommodate your loading blocks really speeds things up.
Stands are cheap and the right one speeds things up like crazy!
There is no way I'd use a Lee thrower with a powder like 'TiteGroup', simply not accurate enough.
TiteGroup is POWERFUL, a little makes a BIG difference, and it's easily possible to double or triple charge cases using it.
Since so little is used, it's also possible to squib a round even with visual inspection... I know experienced reloaders that have done it, so I weigh TiteGroup now...
Just a warning, don't know if you use TiteGroup or the like or not.
One thing no one considers when they get a new press is a bench for that press...
This goes a LOT faster/smoother when the bench fits you!
I start with the top, what height? Constantly reaching up or reaching down for the press handle swing is hard on your neck, shoulder, elbow and tires you out.
Shoulders in particular can be damaged with repetitive movement...
The second thing I do is inset the press in the top,
No Knee Or Hip Busters!
No presses cantilevered over the edge where they get leverage on the bench and wobble around, bang the bench off the wall, etc!
There are usually front & rear bolts securing the press to the bench,
Funny thing is, a 2"x4" or 2"x6" on edge will usually fit right in between those bolt hole sets, allowing you to stiffen up the bench top.
No more bowing or bouncing of the press/bench top.
NOT chasing the press helps a LOT and speeds things up & reduces fatigue.
I like my bench tops a little higher than you see most people have them.
First off, I use a chair my knees bend at 90* angle, and my feet are FLAT on the floor, and something with a back on it to support my back. (No 'Stools' for me!)
The bench top a little higher means I'm NOT reaching down for things, and I don't need a 'Riser' for the press.
A reasonable depth of bench means I'm not leaning forward all the time to chase primer tool, cases, etc on the bench top. Inset press means I'm not sitting way back from the top either, keeping things in easy reach while still at the press. Loading blocks, bullet boxes etc sit beside the press instead of behind the press hanging off the bench.
This is particularly true for Lee presses since they cantilever a good bit over the bench top sticking out in space... When they don't really have to...
Just some ideas since you are getting deeper into reloading with a new machine.
WendyJ-Please come back and tell us how the Lee Classic Turret Press works out for you. Lots of folk like me lurk on threads like these and appreciate knowing how things workout.
Good luck!
P.S. If you think this tread is getting too long maybe start a new one with your experience with your new press.
Good luck!
P.S. If you think this tread is getting too long maybe start a new one with your experience with your new press.
So far all I've received is the pro disk powder measure and the priming system. Press will be here tomorrow and I order a plate from In Line fabrication to mount by changing presses. I did try the powder measure on my Lee classic cast single stage. I think the chart showed .095 or somewhere near for 8.7 grains of Unique. I had to go to 1.17 if I am remembering correct for a 8.9 grain charge which was consistent 9 times out of 10 and only off plus or minus a 1/10 grain after 50 charges. I can live with that but the chart is incorrect so far. I did expand the mouth on 50 30-30 cases and use the priming system arm that came for the single stage. I lost one primer in the floor probably my fault. Not much directions to it but easy enough to figure out. I am sure the dies in the turret set up will be no issue. Only drawback I see is it won't dispense enough for rifle. I was going to load 223 also but screws on this disk are only long enough for a single disk even though it came with four. I may need a different powder charger and if so someone Please feel free to chime in on which one I need for 223 and 30-30. I bought a riser for it for when the press gets here and have a short base charging die coming from Midway since my 223 was RCBS and was only a 2 die set even though I bought a Lee factory crimp die for it when first ordered. I will need a long base charging die also from what I read. I am anxious for it to get here and get up and running. Only drawback I have now is I may have ordered the wrong powder charging die. I still have an old anniversary press I started with mounted to the bench for depriming all my cases before ss tumbling. I think it will up my production on pistol to more than I shoot. std7mag, I hope you chime in here since I know this is what you use. Maybe a powder measure guide.
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Wendyj if you are interested in loading rifle with that powder measure then Lee makes a Double Disk Kit, https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-...pment/lee-powder-handling/lee-double-disk-kit that works very well.
For loading pistol powders I took my Disk Measure and did my own chart with the powders I use as the Lee Chart was off by about .3gr on most.
For loading pistol powders I took my Disk Measure and did my own chart with the powders I use as the Lee Chart was off by about .3gr on most.
Thanks for that link. Looks like four more disks and longer screws. My chart was off a good bit on unique but most said it wouldn't throw consistent. Mine ran almost perfect after I got the right size hole. I'll get this ordered so I can at least throw 25 grains of benchmark powder. No chart for it so I'll play with disks until it comes close.
Your experience with the disk parallels mine. I think they make those charts conservative on purpose to give people a safety margin. You did what I did - used the chart as a starting place and figured out what you really needed.
And you found out about the disk doubling kit. And you are right that setup is not hard - just take your time and follow the directions. With your good sense, you'll be up and running pretty quickly.
And you found out about the disk doubling kit. And you are right that setup is not hard - just take your time and follow the directions. With your good sense, you'll be up and running pretty quickly.
Wendyj , Sorry I should have been more clear about the Pro disc and the ADDED charging bar which is fully adjustable https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precisio...qid=1524753523&sr=8-1&keywords=lee+charge+bar
When I started loading pistol I had already been loading rifle for quite some time . This means I loaded pistol like I was loading rifle . Weighed each charge , used a single stage press etc . This resulted in me already having loads worked up before I bought the LCT press and pro auto disc . The discs NEVER gave me the charge I needed based on my established loads . This was unacceptable to me , I was not about to rework all my pistol loads . Thank goodness I was told about the charging bar . This allows you to adjust the charge to pretty much anything you want in the handgun charging range .
Because of the above , I recommended the lee auto drum for your 223 loads https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/8...jJ8I4o0VyNNTewOzmMxTBnDRgn_iPI0YaAmaaEALw_wcB Which is completely adjustable from 4gr to 35+gr depending an the insert used ( included )
So I strongly recommend against going to the double disc method . You're not likely going to get your established charges and it will likely leak even more . Instead I recommend you buy the Lee auto drum . I'll admit it was a little finicky at first but a little graphite lube and it's worked quite well since .
When I started loading pistol I had already been loading rifle for quite some time . This means I loaded pistol like I was loading rifle . Weighed each charge , used a single stage press etc . This resulted in me already having loads worked up before I bought the LCT press and pro auto disc . The discs NEVER gave me the charge I needed based on my established loads . This was unacceptable to me , I was not about to rework all my pistol loads . Thank goodness I was told about the charging bar . This allows you to adjust the charge to pretty much anything you want in the handgun charging range .
Because of the above , I recommended the lee auto drum for your 223 loads https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/8...jJ8I4o0VyNNTewOzmMxTBnDRgn_iPI0YaAmaaEALw_wcB Which is completely adjustable from 4gr to 35+gr depending an the insert used ( included )
So I strongly recommend against going to the double disc method . You're not likely going to get your established charges and it will likely leak even more . Instead I recommend you buy the Lee auto drum . I'll admit it was a little finicky at first but a little graphite lube and it's worked quite well since .
I like the Autodrum, but it requires extra expense in buying more drums, rather than reuse what you have and lose the charge setting, in which you may have invested significant time. Some of my loads work fine with my existing supply of autodisks, including double disk. There is no discernible difference in my handgun shooting with variances of a tenth grain or so +-. The issue is always whether the powder is too fine or too coarse to measure without significant variances, clogs, or disk jams. That problem presents a challenge to most powder measures.
I got the press in today. Used some wood clamps to hold onto the bench to assemble arm and auto prime bracket. Not sure whether to use washer or not. Cleaned and lubed moving parts with small amounts of ballistol. Press feels gritty and not real smooth but may take some using. The drum turned to correct spot every time. I did not get any extra plastic pieces everyone says comes with it. Inline Fabrication mounting plate will be here tomorrow so Saturday I am going to crank out some 45 colt. Hope all goes well. Metal, I ordered the double disk this morning. I can get the auto drum ordered if I have issues.
This is the piece you might want to get to have around:
Part TF3567 for products: 90064 CLASSIC TURRET PRESS and 90932 4 HOLE TP WI AUTO INDEX.
Unless you are buying something else from Lee, you should purchase a pack of these from another re-seller to save the shipping costs.
When they sent my press that little plastic square was taped inside the box for a spare, I almost missed it, it is tiny.
I am still on the original 7 years later. You have to force the turret to turn by hand while it is in the wrong place on the rod, I guess.
It must be harder to do than I thought it would be because I remember buying a few spares(50 cents each) because people were saying get them.
I guess I'll have them if I ever need.
I am still on the original 7 years later. You have to force the turret to turn by hand while it is in the wrong place on the rod, I guess.
It must be harder to do than I thought it would be because I remember buying a few spares(50 cents each) because people were saying get them.
I guess I'll have them if I ever need.
I just ordered 4. Stupid on my part. $0.50 each. $5.40 shipping. I don't want it down though. Lee emailed me back when I asked where it was and they advised they don't send extras anymore. Ordered 4 turrets and a long charging die from Amazon. Now for one more powder measure.