Lee dies for 44 magnum

Mikid does the Redding crimp die work that well for 357 mag or 44 mag? I have always seated and crimped with one die and have had no issues.
 
I began loading in the early 70s, living in NY, where the dies on the shelf were almost all Lyman.

In the 80s, I moved west, and the common dies are RCBS. I use both, and I'm set up to load for 30 or so different cartridges. I have a couple sets of Lee dies, one in 357 and a so far still unused set for 7.62x54R.

I don't care for the features or the appearance of Lee dies, but that's just a personal bias. CHEAP dies are not my overriding factor. How may set of the same caliber dies do you think you will buy in your lifetime, anyway??

Unless YOU wreck them, they don't wear out. I'm still using my 70s vintage .44SPL/MAG dies, as well as some others. (decapping pins, however, are a wear/break part, so, having some spares in the tool kit is a smart thing to do)

LEE makes some absolutely superior hand tools, but their dies, presses, powder measures, etc., just don't do it for me. I'm not bashing them, they do work, but I'm not a fan.
 
Yes, for me the profile crimp dies are much easier to keep consistent crimps on my .38 Sp/.357 Mag., .44 Sp/.44 Mag. I have Lee and RECS dies for my revolvers and have used the "stock" roll crimping but I seem to get easier crimping with the Redding die, especially heavy crimps for my T-Rex Killer .44 Magnum loads. I prefer to seat and crimp separately, and I have a turret press so my crimping is done evenly and quickly...
 
Some Information in this thread is WRONG WRONG WRONG

44 mag dies can be used for 44 spcl...not certain of the reverse.
Click to expand...
This information from post #2 is ABSOLUTELY WRONG.

I know the correct response is included in several other replies, but I wanted to specifically point this out for anyone looking through this thread that does not yet fully understand the differences.

The resizing dies are identical - the only resizing is done by the carbide ring at the bottom of the die, so it makes NO difference how long the case is.

But the expander and seat/crimp dies are dependent on the length of the case - they MUST be able to go far enough down for the mouth of the case to reach the "active" parts of the die inside; therefore, a die made specifically for the magnum caliber is NOT going to be able to work with a shorter case. On the other hand, a die made for the shorter caliber can simply be backed out the appropriate amount to properly act upon a longer case - the only limitation on this is the length of the threads on the die body. It is conceivable that a super long case might exceed the available range of adjustment for some dies, but this is not the case for standard sister calibers such as .38 Spl/Mag and .44 Spl/Mag.
 
But the expander and seat/crimp dies are dependent on the length of the case
Click to expand...

Not exactly. Only the CRIMP function is dependent on the length of the case.

I've never met an expander or seater die that didn't have more than enough adjustment in the expander or seating stem to compensate for even the shortest cases.

Expander dies (at least the ones I've been using for the last 40+ years) are all just tubes that the brass doesn't even TOUCH. The only difference case length makes is how far down (or up) you have to adjust the expander plug for the desired result.

Seater dies are a slightly different matter, but nearly the same, for SEATING, only. For seating (only, NOT crimping) again, the dies range of adjustment of the seating stem is more than enough for the shorter brass.

CRIMPING using the seating die is a different matter, but ONLY when you have, for what ever reason, gotten dies made for only ONE cartridge. They do make them, though I often wonder why...

All the usual dies in the paired Special & Magnum calibers (.357 & .44) are made with the crimp shoulder located at the point where they will crimp the shorter cases correctly, when the die is adjusted for that. For the longer magnum cases, one simply doesn't screw the die body as far into the press. Alternative is to use a spacer washer(s). Set the die for the shorter case, then use the spacer to compensate for the additional length of the magnum case.
 
The OP never said what make or model guns he would be reloading 44 magnums for.

As far as I know there are no cheap 44 magnum handguns out there sold today.

So Why in the world would someone spend a large amount of money for a handgun or rifle , then go cheap on reloading tools. Doesn't add up in my way of thinking.
 
I load for a Super Blackhawk, S&W Model 29, and a TC Contender.

My die sets are RCBS/Redding. Presses -- RCBS A2 and a Hollywood Turret.

I have other presses but those two get the most work.
 
More expensive dies do not always equate to higher quality ammo.

I load for a decent number of handgun cartridges, including 44 mag, and have never had a lick of problems with the Lee 4 die sets. My ammo is just as accurate as I need it to be - including an encore barrel that shoots like a rifle at 100 yards.
 
More expensive dies do not always equate to higher quality ammo.
Click to expand...

Absolutely!

Dies themselves are only one part of the many, many factors involved. Quality components, quality preparation, quality assembly AND quality tools are all factors. My experience is, that until you reach the level of benchrest or long range competition, all the major die makers products are good enough to produce good quality, accurate ammunition, IF you do the rest right.

There is, to me, an advantage to basically sticking to one or two die makers, which it some commonality of parts, and method of adjustments.

However, there's no need to replace something that works, just for brand uniformity, unless that's your thing.

Most of dies are either Lyman or RCBS, a couple of LEE, and an old Herter's set that probably meets the age requirement to draw full social security, but still works just fine.

For handguns, (revolvers, semi autos and single shots) I reload for .22 Hornet, .221 Fireball, .222 Remington, .30-30, .32 ACP, 9mm Luger, .38 Special, .357 Mag, .357 AMP, .44 Spl, .44 Mag, .44 AMP, .45ACP, .45 Colt, .45WinMag, & .45-70.

For roll crimp straight wall cases, I use only a three die set, usually seating and crimping in one step. The key to ease of doing this is proper brass prep, having all cases (in the batch) of a uniform length.
 
Lee make some descent priced dies. I predominately use Hornady however the Lee work on my press in 41 & 44 magnum. No complaints... on dies

Thewelshm
 
Well I went to store to buy the Lee 3 die but were sold out so got the 4 die set. The only thing I'm not sure I'm going to like is not being able to use the powder cop.
 
Well I went to store to buy the Lee 3 die but were sold out so got the 4 die set. The only thing I'm not sure I'm going to like is not being able to use the powder cop.
Click to expand...
I do not think I understand your issue here. What does the powder cop have to do with anything? That is an issue with the type of press you are using, not the brand of dies.

The Lee 4-die set is IDENTICAL to the 3-die set you wanted to buy, just with the addition of the FCD thrown in. And just because you now have the FCD that you did not want, there is absolutely NO reason you need to use it. In fact, IMO, you should NOT use it for revolver rounds.
 
Mauser I really don't have an issue. I said in post 8 that I'm using a LNL AP press. I use a powder cop when loading with it.
I know that the Lee 4 die resize, expand and seat dies are the same as the 3 die set with the addition of the FCD now as many have explained. Both box sets were sealed when I was looking at them and I don't open things up and put them back unless I'm buying it. Also the staff at that store had no idea when I asked them.
There also have been some that have said the FCD works for them so I am going to find out for myself if it does or not. Hence that is why I will not be able to use the powder cop. Some including you say its a waste of time others claim it is the second coming.
I also never said that I did not want the FCD I said I have always seated and crimped with one die and have had no issues.
The question I had in the original post was why the 3 die set was marked for 44 magnum and the 4 die marked for 44 special. Several here including yourself answered that for me.
Hope this clears it up for you.
 
Lee dies, no set screws in the lock rings. No lock nut on the seating stem. They are cheaper cause they are cheaper.
 
Well they are a little cheaper than Hornady or RCBS but not that much here anyways. Like anything else you get what you pay for but sometimes you don't. I will be getting another set of 44 dies regardless of how these end up working.
I use Hornady lock rings on all my dies as the set screw into threads doesn't work for me.
 
I picked up the die set for .44 mag when I began to reload. I mostly load coated bullets, so I bought a separate crimp die, as I like to seat and crimp in 2 steps. this was on a Lee classic turret. I since picked up a Square Deal B, and it seats and crimps in 2 steps. I use one shot to lube cases, even though they are carbide dies. Not sure if this helps this discussion much, just wanted my 2 cents in.

I use lots of lee dies. No issues with any of them yet.
 
Sorry, all I can do is bash Lee. Lee is cheaper because it was designed and made that way. Some people have no problems with Lee products but over the past 35 years I have replaced Lee equipment with other brands that work "better" for me. RCBS, Redding, and Dillon are my preferred dies (in that order).
 
Well I finally got around to cleaning and setting these dies up. So far they seem to work just as well as any others I have.
As far as the FCD I actually like being able to change the crimp so easily. Only had a couple out of 50 that the bottom sizer contacted the case slightly.
Can't say anything bad about them yet as only loaded 50 so far.
I set them up and used them on my Rock Chucker. Will try they on LNL next batch.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top