Lee 223 deprime/resize die issues

M

MarkGlazer

New member
Board, need some direction. I've already stripped one die and had it replaced by Lee under their warranty program.

I have lubed the outside of the case (neck and shoulder) as well as the inside of the neck with lubricant Lee provided. The decapping pin continues to displace/dislodge, which is to say the primer is not being pushed out of its pocket.

If I continue on this path it will lead to stripping the screw that holds the decapping pin in place, obviously don't want that to happen again.

Is there something about the design of the Lee die?
Is there a better product to work with?
Any suggestions to what I thought would be a fairly straight forward process?

Thanks.
 
Those must be some crimped in primers! I have used a Lee universal decapper separate from the resizer die with good success. I don't understand why you are stripping threads. Your decapping pin should break long before that.
 
Can you see two holes in the bottom of the cases? I would also say you must have military crimped cases. They are a little harder to punch out. I would try screwing the deprimer out a little bit and try that..
 
When I bought the same die set, the pin wasn't nearly tight enough, and got stuck in the case and was pulled out of the die. I had to cut it out.

I put as much torque on the nut that tightens around the collet and decamping pin as I could. I'm talking white knuckle, hurt your hands torque. Hasn't come out since.
 
Good tip with backing out the pin a hair. But regardless, your somehow going to have to get the pin tighter than it is. Maybe try loc tite. I really really put as much torque as my little body can get on the top screw, never even thought I could strip it
 
First no need to lube the neck and shoulder, only from the shoulder down and inside the neck.

As far as the decapping pin goes:

1)are you sure the cases are boxer primed?

2) are you sure the decapping pin is straight and has not been bent?

3) the pin is designed to slide up the collet when it meets resistance, you need to REALLY crank the collet tight. According to the instructions:
"Considerable torque may be necessary!"

I don't know how you could strip the collet unless you cross threaded it or used the wrong wrenches. Nothing wrong with the design it has worked for me and many people thousands and thousands of times.
 
I am a little confused by the way you described things in your post. First, it is good that you lubed the brass before resizing, otherwise you will get a stuck case, but lubing has nothing to do with the depriming action and whether the pin slips or not. Unless you got lube on the upper part of the pin itself where the collet grips it, reducing friction. You should be able to tighten the collet that holds the pin just enough to hold it in place while depriming a normal, non-defective boxer primed case even with crimped primers and not have it slip. If you over tighten it, you risk breaking a pin if you run into a berdan primed case or a case with off-center flash hole.
From die instructions:
"The decapper is retained by a collet. Should it be overstressed by an obstruction; it simply slides up without damage. To reset, loosen the decapper clamp and position the decapper flush with clamp end and retighten. Considerable torque may be necessary. A 1/2" and 3/4" wrench are necessary."
I have only had to re-adjust the pin a couple of times in thousands of reloads across various calibers. You don't mention what type of press you are using, but make sure the die body and ram are well aligned.
 
Board, I greatly appreciate your replies.

I suspect the issue is military crimped primer pockets. I inspected the few cases that I worked with and they do appear to have infamous band in place. I also happen to have ordered a Lyman tool this week to clean out the pockets.

The cases are not Berdan. I will take up the suggestion to use Loc-tite as well as tighten the collet as much as possible. I did this the first time around but the pin kept displacing, thus having to unscrew and re-screw it back in place.

I'm not sure it matters but I was working on a turret press. I also have a single stage but I prefer to strictly load on it.

I've also ordered a decapping die. Best to have a back-up. I could use the Collet die as a decapping mechanism, would rather use the tools as they are designed, not as an alternative to the deficiencies I've experienced.

As usual, you have risen to the occasion. Thank you all.
 
I would avoid the loc-tite myself, it seems to me you are asking for more of a headache when you have to remove the collet to reset the pin. Just crank it down, and make sure you didn't bend the pin on the end. It doesn't take much to make it not work right. Military primers should pop right out

You are using the full length resizing die correct? Not the collet neck sizing die (different collet)
 
I've decapped/resized literally thousands of crimped primers with zero issues using the standard Lee FLRD. I seriously doubt crimped primers are the problem.
 
Do not use loctite. Do you have your die set right?. Is the decapper pin sticking out far enough?. I have the lee for my 223 also.Hundreds of thousands of cases never ever a issue yet. Actually 223 size easier than any other caliber. As for tightening the nut on top. Get 2 wrenches. Turn tight till you get a grunt. That is all you should need.Over tighten and you defeat the purpose of the pin pushing back. Crimped primers pop out as easy as non crimped. Have you cleaned the inside of your die?.
 
With Respect to others,

I've had the same issues with the same dies.

By the time I got the decapping rod far enough down to push the primer out,
I had bent rods, or with no break rods, I slid the decapping rod back up though the die.
And still had stuck cases...

The dies are for CIVILIAN cases, without military crimp.
After much frustration, I went to a universal decapper,
And the first pass through with Military Crimp cases, they get the universal decapper,

Once they are decapped,
I use an RCBS deburring tool to shave the crimp lip off.
MUCH faster and easier than 'Swagging' or 'Swaging' the crimp, and no press masturbation involved.

A quarter twist with the nose of the RCBS deburring tool (or equivalent) takes the extra material off, and leaves a nice, shallow taper to guide the new cap into place.

After the cap removal and deburr, the new primers glide right into the primer pocket,
Decap/resize without issues, and you only do it ONCE.

Just my experience with military brass...
 
Degrease the stem and collet. Use a solvent/laquer thinner/acetone/etc. to remove any grease/oil on the decapping stem and the interior of the collet. If you tighten the collet on a lubed stem, it won't hold. Also be sure the brass is Boxer primed...;)

My Lee dies have given me no trouble decapping any military surplus crimped in primers (9mm, 45 ACP, 5.56, or 30-06).
 
I always suggest the LEE universal decapping die. For $30, you will keep your sizing dies much cleaner and decapping will go more quickly. I find that if I decap all my dirty brass, then tumble it, every stage of reloading is cleaner and faster, and my equipment stays clean.

As for the OPs original problem... there's a reason the primers are not popping free. My first guess is that they are berdan primed brass and you haven't noticed it yet. I've bent a pin or two assuming it was boxer primed, just because it was brass. Next thought is that there's some obstruction deep in the case, like a pebble.

Do not lock the collet so tight that it defeats the purpose. I have bent and broken pins because I over tightened it. It's supposed to slip in the collet, and if it does, put that case aside and move on.
 
The dies are for CIVILIAN cases, without military crimp.
Click to expand...

This is simply incorrect. I and many others her have resized/deprimed untold thousands of .233 cases with crimped primer pockets without an issue. If the die is not defective in some way and is installed correctly, it will easily deprime crimped primers. In fact, the feel on the press between a crimped primer and an uncrimped primer when decapping is usually indistinguishable. I would suggest you call Lee again and explain your problem. They will help you get it sorted out. Good luck.
 
Quote:
The dies are for CIVILIAN cases, without military crimp.

This is simply incorrect. I and many others her have resized/deprimed untold thousands of .233 cases with crimped primer pockets without an issue. If the die is not defective in some way and is installed correctly, it will easily deprime crimped primers. In fact, the feel on the press between a crimped primer and an uncrimped primer when decapping is usually indistinguishable. I would suggest you call Lee again and explain your problem. They will help you get it sorted out. Good luck.
Click to expand...

Me too.^^ :D Many .5.56, a whole slew of 45 ACP and 9mm, several hundred 30-06 (just getting started reloading for my Garand)...
 
I've decapped/resized literally thousands of crimped primers with zero issues using the standard Lee FLRD. I seriously doubt crimped primers are the problem.
Degrease the primer rod and use a wrench to tighten it into the die. Have used RCBS case lube for the last ten years and it works well when rolled on cases. A small amount goes a long way. For the crimped primers I use a Dillon Super Swage the best $100 spent since the Lee Classic press. Possum Hollow makes a affordable case trimmer if you can find one. Yes there is a learning curve to reloading 223/5.56 but once you've mastered it life is sweet.
 
With respect to others,

I've run into this problem more than once...
The 'Slide Up' and 'No Break' decapping rods like to slide on military crimp cases.

My solution was an RCBS universal decapping die with a THREAD IN rod that won't slide.

Since I only use it for the FIRST decapping of military crimp cases, and then remove the hardened crimp.

(Compression of the brass during the primer crimp process hardeners the brass around the primer pocket mouth)

The nose of the mouth deburring tool makes a GREAT taper in the hardened primer pocket mouth,
And the new primers don't snag on the hardened lip on the way in.

I'm sure others have different ways of doing this,
And I'm sure others have a way of avoiding it all together.

I find that knocking the primer out with a universal decapping tool,
Then tapering the hardened brass, leaving a taper beats running them again in a swage/swag tool,
When a simple twist of the wrist does a great job and is a 'No Brain Required' operation that only has to be done ONCE.

Once the hardened lip is gone, no need to do it again.

By knocking the primer out of the case FIRST,
With the universal decapping die,
Then cleaning the case,
I get the primer pocket cleaned,
And I don't run a dirty case through my sizing die scratching it up in the process...

Less scratches mean less wear and lube since full length resizing dies won't try to grab the case where the scratches are.
Less mechanical friction, less hydraulic lock with clean, scratch free dies...

If you have other ideas, that's fine, but this is what works for me each time, every time.
 
There is no magic about Lee's universal decapping die. It is just an ordinary full length resizer with hollowed out cavity. You can do the same thing using a 30-06 sizer on 0.223 brass. Of course you need to replace the expander ball with a decapping pin without the ball. Any decapping pin for straight wall pistol brass will do.

-TL
 
If the decapping rod is sliding up on military crimped primers you don't have the collet cranked tight enough, plain and simple. Way more people have zero issues than have this happen
 
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