Leaded barrel and no accuracy

Guys, after reading your answers and viewing some videos, I came to the conclusion that I have a very bad and problematic Dan Wesson 732 revolver and maybe without repair or with a difficult one:(

In the end I have two problems:

Timing problem (slow) and misalignment cylinder/barrel problem...

Now I see why I have a lot of lead debris coming from the gap cylinder/barrel and lot of lead on the top of the barrel (no photo) and in the forcing cone. When I push the hammer back, the barrel rotates but sometimes do not engage in the cylinder stop, so I shot many rounds with the cylinder a little to the left of the barrel, where the lead accumulates...

On the other hand even with the cylinder docked in the cylinder stop - I do not have a light to put inside the chambers - if I introduce a brass rod inside the barrel it touches the left side (viewing from front)of the cylinder, in all the chambers, what do not happen on the top, right and bottom of the barrel...

So, I have a slow timing revolver and a misalignment cylinder/barrel :(

About the misalignment I don't think I can do anything unless open a little the forcing cone, correct?

Now, regarding the timing, I notice that the hand has a recess near the tip, where it touches the ratchet in the cylinder, I don't know if that recess is from factory or is wear - the revolver is like new, only a total of maybe 400 or 500 shots - but I think that is the problem, as it turns when it reaches the middle of the ratchet it doesn't touch it anymore so the movement is not enough to reach the cylinder stop...

Must I buy a new hand? Can I adjust mine?

Thanks in advance for any help.
Mike
 

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I think that you should not alter anything on your revolver, like reaming the forcing cone, etc. Instead, you should contact Dan Wesson and ask them how they want to handle this. They made the gun and they may want to fix it for free if you haven't altered it. They might not be as helpful if you have made your own alterations.
 
I think that you should not alter anything on your revolver, like reaming the forcing cone, etc. Instead, you should contact Dan Wesson and ask them how they want to handle this. They made the gun and they may want to fix it for free if you haven't altered it. They might not be as helpful if you have made your own alterations.

Yes, I understand your point, the problem is that I live in Portugal, very far from USA, and bought the revolver maybe in 1996, besides I only shot a few boxes with it...
It seems to be a problem, don't you agree? ;)
 
You should go to: danwessonforum.com Hopefully someone there can help you. It is the most knowledgeable forum for the Dan Wesson revolvers on the internet I believe. I would think you could find a gunsmith in your area that can fix the timing issue.

I am wondering if you have made sure the barrel is tight. If your barrel is even a little loose the problems you describe can happen. Also adjust the B/C gap to .006 or maybe a little less. I hope you have the barrel wrench that comes with the gun when new but if not EWK arms has them. Good luck
 
Hi again,

I discovered something else, responsible for the slow timing – there is a huge gap between the left side cover frame and the mainframe, exactly where the hand moves up and down and that gap moves away the hand from the cylinder (2), causing the slow timing…
If we see, the bottom part of the side cover (1) is tight but the upper part (3)is very far away.

In the movie bellow we can see the lateral movement of the hand :(

https://vimeo.com/user89990635/review/292133302/0373cc86ed

I have the two Allen screws very tight, I think that I even used too much force as I slightly damage the head of the screws, so can´t see what to do more to reduce the gap.

I find very difficult to fit in the left side frame, it seems to be bigger than the free space, maybe I need to sand a little the top part which fits near the rear sight …

Any thoughts?
 

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  • Hand gap 23 legend.jpg
    Hand gap 23 legend.jpg
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You should go to: danwessonforum.com Hopefully someone there can help you.

I am wondering if you have made sure the barrel is tight. If your barrel is even a little loose the problems you describe can happen. Also adjust the B/C gap to .006 or maybe a little less. I hope you have the barrel wrench that comes with the gun when new but if not EWK arms has them. Good luck

Hi, thanks, I already went there and open a discussion but no real solution till now.

The barrel is well tight and the gap adjusted with the original supplied tools to 0.006 ;)
 
Shooting cast (lead) bullets requires additional work. Things need to be within a rather narrow window, or it won't work well, especially so in a revolver.

You need to slug the barrel to determine its groove diameter (x). You need to measure the cylinder throat diameter (y) with a set of pin gauge. You need to measure the bullet diameter (z) with a micrometer. Ideally 0 =< y - z < 0.002" and 0.001" < z - x < 0.003". If those conditions are not met, and you still want to shoot cast bullets, you need to do something to make it happen. Otherwise, stay with jacketed bullets.

As for the proper functioning of the lock work, you probably want to let a competent gunsmith earn his living. Revolver is a specialty even for the smiths, i.e. not everyone can really do it.

-TL
 
New input:

As many of you said, the side plate is the problem, it is not tight with the frame so the hand moves freely to the side and doesn't move the cylinder all the way around.

So last night I disassembled all the parts, tried to fit the side plate alone, but had the same problem, so I sand its flat surfaces and underneath and after that it fits almost correctly, a little gap on the upper side, but the hand is more secure, almost no lateral movements and now the timing is correct, when I put back the hammer first the cylinder stops in the cylinder stop and only after that the hammer stops in position...

So, maybe I have to take it all again and do a deeper polish, to see if the side plate goes in a little more and then I need to go to the range to see if it shots better, it has to do it ;)

Thanks for all your help,

Mike
 

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  • DW side plate (gap reduced 2).jpg
    DW side plate (gap reduced 2).jpg
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