Well the 'short stroke' breakage certainly did occur and I'm glad to see I wasn't the only one. And, yes, it must give pause to anybody considering carrying the LCR for defense. I've honed my technique some since the incident and feel comfortable that the revolver will perform when (if?) needed. I believe it has one of the best trigger pulls for a DAO piece in the market today.
LCR vs. J frame.
- Thread starter hulley
- Start date
Not letting the trigger fully extend back out before pulling it again.....I would not advise it, I would think at one time or another something will not line up correctly and somthing will bind up or break.....If you want to shoot really fast go get an auto in DA/SA and carry it cocked and locked.
The trigger on the LCR is designed to be completely released into a full reset position before it is depressed again. You may short stroke it 100 times with no problem and it could break on the 101st time. I can tell you for a certainty that is what happened to mine. Afterwards the cylinder would not lock up and the trigger pull felt like somebody poured sand into the action.
Ruger replaced the entire trigger ass'y and test fired the gun before returning it (and paying shipping) under warranty. Although I still carry it I do have a concern that, under stress, using a DAO piece, that it would be easy to recreate the failure at a REALLY bad time. I alternate carry with my Taurus 851 .38+p and that weapon is a brick; a nearly indestructible, tack driver regardless of the Taurus-bashing that often occurs here.
Ruger replaced the entire trigger ass'y and test fired the gun before returning it (and paying shipping) under warranty. Although I still carry it I do have a concern that, under stress, using a DAO piece, that it would be easy to recreate the failure at a REALLY bad time. I alternate carry with my Taurus 851 .38+p and that weapon is a brick; a nearly indestructible, tack driver regardless of the Taurus-bashing that often occurs here.
When I sent mine in to Ruger I asked them to explain what happened, why my LCR suddenly seized up when I was dry-firing it ( I do recall some short-stroking slipped in there....).
They didn't explain, the slip said only that they replaced the transfer bar. QC issue? Did they beef up the design at all? They didn't say.
They didn't explain, the slip said only that they replaced the transfer bar. QC issue? Did they beef up the design at all? They didn't say.
Shadi Khalil
New member
I've handled a few different LCR's and found the exact opposite. IMO, the LCR's trigger is lite compared to my Airweight. I had read all about seen you tube videos demonstrating how lite and smooth the trigger was so I was excited to try one out. Turns out I didn't like it; It felt spongey and didn't have the positive return you get with a j-frame.
Despite that, I still think its a great trigger and I can see how people just getting in to revolvers (not referring to the OP) would really like it compared to the j-frame triggers. However, if you want an Airweight that is similar to the Ruger, the 642/442 is the way to go. They are relatively inexpensive and are pretty widely available without the much hated (doesn't really bother me) lock.
Here are some pics, per your request.
Despite that, I still think its a great trigger and I can see how people just getting in to revolvers (not referring to the OP) would really like it compared to the j-frame triggers. However, if you want an Airweight that is similar to the Ruger, the 642/442 is the way to go. They are relatively inexpensive and are pretty widely available without the much hated (doesn't really bother me) lock.
Here are some pics, per your request.
I stopped by my smith last night and had my LCR trigger measured, it came in at a 5 pull average of 10lb 5oz. Too me thats heavy but he said thats probably in line with other LCRs. I'm sure I just need to actually shoot it more. My wife carries the LCR much more than I but I'm wanting my own .38 snub and would like a trigger pull (and hammer) around 6-7lbs. I think that would be great. I'm still considering a 637 with some nice wood grips.
Shadi Khalil
New member
Thank you. The black holster is actually a Mika pocket holster but with an IWB it would disappear.
Short stroking is pulling the trigger before it's completely reset. It results in a revolver that usually rotates the cylinder, but doesn't fire. The chief complaint with the LCR is that in rapid fire the trigger return isn't very positive, which results in a tendency for some to short stroke.
I bought both guns and tried them out and it happen to me, so I sold the LCR. Everyone is a little difference, so you just have to shoot both quickly and see what happens. For some, it won't even be a problem.
Pro to j-frame: Less bulky frame and more positive trigger return.
Con to j-frame: Heavier trigger.
Pro to LCR: 1.5 ounces lighter than a j-frame, lighter trigger pull.
Con to LCR: Less positive trigger reset, longer trigger reset. Easier to short stroke.
Here's a random youtube video that shows a short stroked LCR...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sromkLIUanM
Ok, over the weekend I stopped by my LGS to have a look. I played with a 637 a little bit and I thought the trigger was fine, SA was light and broke the the proverbial glass rod. At $375 new I thought that was a great deal. I definitly see a 637 in my near future however I did put $100 down on a used but very clean SP101 2.25" in .357mag! I'm waiting on a bonus from work in the next week or so and I'll probably bring home both. Besides, everyone should have both a Smith and Ruger wheel gun, right? 