Lcp plus....sand!

defjon

New member
Long story short....how would I best go about desandifying / degrittifying the lcp after being lured by my toddler to chill in a sandbox and getting a swift ninja shovel full of sand down the jean pocket that contained elsiepea in a desantis nemesis?


I've tried soaking in clp working the slide and trigger hitting it with compressed air etc etc all kinds of junk. Still gritty!
 
Can you take it apart?

Well of course!!!

But perhaps more importantly, can you put it back together?

Seriously though, maybe time to spray the thing down with water (gasp!) and try to flush all the sand out that way. No problem in my mind as long as you lube it up afterwards.

Water and guns. Some people think they're incompatible but black powder shooters for years have been flushing their guns out with plain old H2O after a day of shooting and as long as they dry and lube them afterwards-no problem.
 
Hey, that's crazy enough to work? Dunk her to flush the sand then clp?


I didn't detail strip, but field strip FYI...
 
If you are working the slide, you are grinding sand into the aluminum frame rails.
Disassemble as far as you can, blow out with WD 40, then compressed air. Do this several times. If you feel grit, do it again.
 
Id fill the sink and give'er a dunk, and vigorously shake it around under water. Shake it out and let it air dry, or hit it with a hair dryer, and then see how it feels/works.

Water wont hurt things, as long as your reasonable in what you do. Ive gone into muddy rivers while canoeing, wearing my Colt Commander, and as a field expedient, rinsed it out well in a "clearer" side creek when I could, and then gave it a good cleaning and lube when I got home. I did that more than once, and never had any problems.

WD40 works well at displacing water if youre still paranoid. You could dose it with that, then maybe Gun Scrubber if the WD40 makes you paranoid, and then lube it with your favorite lube. I used WD40 alone for years with no ill effects, contrary to internet lore.
 
Well of course!!!



But perhaps more importantly, can you put it back together?



Seriously though, maybe time to spray the thing down with water (gasp!) and try to flush all the sand out that way. No problem in my mind as long as you lube it up afterwards.



Water and guns. Some people think they're incompatible but black powder shooters for years have been flushing their guns out with plain old H2O after a day of shooting and as long as they dry and lube them afterwards-no problem.


This is the best idea. Water.
Make sure you dry it and lube it well and it will all be good again.
 
I had a similar sized pistol that got a dunk in salt water in my fishing tackle box. I stripped it completely then put it into a pot of boiling water. I did a complete change of water and did a 2nd boil. When I took it out, I blew it off with compressed air (the residual heat made sure it really dried out). Then, I hit it with a shot of CLP and blew the excess off with more compressed air.
 
They're not that complicated. I'd do a complete disassemble of the grip frame, and wipe all the grip out. I'd inspect the slide, and verify that the firing pin at extractor moved freely. Disassemble and clean them too, if need be.

It'll be a good experience.
 
I'd just rinse it under a running tap of the hottest water I could stand to hold it under. That way you got volume, heat, and pressure moving it out. Repeat as needed. Let dry. Oil as instructed.
 
Gun Scrubber makes a "synthetic safe" version of their cleaner. I too would be careful using brake cleaner on the synthetics.

Seems to work fine on metal guns though, but it always did seem to be harsher than the gun specific cleaners.
 
Everything I have read says the the non-chlorinated type is safe on plastics. I have used it to blow out gunk in trigger groups. But I haven't soaked a whole gun in it.

Like some others have posted hot water and maybe so dawn dish soap, and re-lube.
 
Just an idea if you do decide to flush with water; but when I have had steel parts (not just firearm parts) that I need to be certain are moisture free after being exposed to water, simply set your oven to the lowest temperature and place them in there for awhile. 250*F is not hot enough to damage or melt steel, and after being in that temperature for 10-15 minutes any residual moisture is gone.

The reason I have done this in the past is that I remember seeing the same type of info on the do-it-yourself cans of Cerakote. Media blast, spray, and bake in the oven.:D
 
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