large ring mauser project

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They have numerous folks that advertise different models that sell for less than $100 that you can get and make into a nice shooter. The internet is full of companies that sell them about the same price. Mitchell's Mausers sells their stuff as top of the line Mausers that have a nice stock, but an inflated price most of the time due to folks wanting to keep the guns as collecctibles. Get yourself a shooter and make it anything you want it to be at one of the other companies.
 
I'd like to spiff up a milsurp Mauser but I really don't want to research the whole Turk, Yugo, large ring, small ring, etc. thing. What's the order of preference for the origin, model, year, etc. for these things?
 
I have a much more basic question. Where do you all find Mausers that are worth working on?
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I have a much more basic question. Where do you all find Mausers that are worth working on?
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Dunno why you're having trouble finding one. Personally I like the VZ-24s, but for a little more money you can get a decent Persian (made in the Czech Republic= VZ-24). I paid $89 at Dunhams for my VZ-24. As i mentioned, the stock is pretty rough, and the crest has bben ground off, so it has no real collector value.

There's TONS of similar guns at the gunshow here, usually under $100.
 
98 mauser

Dear Sir:
Doc is coming up in a week or so with 5 Turk mod. 38 Mausers - we're building two 9.3X64 rifles and I've used Turk Mausers for many rifles - actions are heat treated very well and do fine.
As you may well know the 9.3X64 Breneke is a German caliber with the muzzle energy like the 375 H&H! It is used for the big five in Africa.
I also have a 416 Taylor (458 necked down to 416) on a Turk action - works great!
Harry B.
PS: I've shot two water buffs, a lion and Eland behind the house here in Ohio!:)
 
I have a much more basic question. Where do you all find Mausers that are worth working on? I keep reading that lots of them continue to arrive in the USA but the ones I see at gun shows and the local gun shops are junk, with worthless barrels, holes drilled in the darndest places, deep pitting, and on and on. I would like to just spiff one up in original caliber ( it's a pretty good one) new stocks, polishing, new bolt ( I would love to show my mentor how my welding skills have improved ) mount one of the scopes I have on hand, and see if I can get a good shooter for a few hundred bucks. It looks like getting a good barreled action will require forking over $300 to $400 to folks like Mitchell's Mauser. I recently bought a one hunting trip, minute of angle Savage 7mm Rem Mag, with factory installed 3-9x scope for $300 ( how a reputable gun shop can in all good conscience recommend/sell such a rig to a diminutive, 135 lb, 5'6", novice is incomprehensible at least to me) and a NIB Savage 30.06 for $289. I guess the notion of owning a genuine Mauser is just not enough of an incentive for me. .
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The bolt actions can be put on a spectrum with flat bottomed Mausers at the right end and cheap round bottomed Rem700 at the left. Most modern bolts' atributes fall somewhere in between.

To make a $100,000 rifle that goes to the engraver, they do not start with a Rem700, but with a surplus Mauser.

To go hunting, it will be cheaper to just get a Rem700.

It is the Volkswagon vs the RollsRoyce.
 
yugo 24/47

Hi,
I just got a yugo 24/47 that I'm tring to sporterize and I have a couple of questions. Does any body have any experiance/opinion about the ATI scope mount(barrel mount-nondrill) or would it be better to just drill and tap?. Second, any idea where can you find new 8mm BBL? All the ones I've seen are in other caliber but I haven't been able to find the 8mm replacement:confused:
 
See if e-gunparts has a new 8 mm? If not, you can order one from Douglas or Shilen. These will be higher qualitiy than original. I know both companys will contour the barrel for standard sporter contours. I don't recall if either will finish one that is carbon steel? I would rust blue it myself. I also don't know if they will put a military spec finished chamber in place for drop-in fit or not? If you want best accuracy, you will want to buy it short chambered and finish ream it to your action, anyway.

Nick
 
rebarreling yugo 24/47

I found that lothar-walter makes the replacement barrel for the mauser in 8mm. If I'm not changing the caliber and is just a barrel replacement, is there anything special that needs to be done for the headspaceing to be safe? Anything other that the headspace to be concern about?
Beside the barrel vise any recomendations for the action wrench or should I by one?
What about drill & tap?

Thanks
 
98 mauser

Sir:
After you have your bbl. fit I'd use the Redfield 98 Mauser Jr. base - two holes in rec. ring - one on the rear.
Always when drilling (6x48) use a smaller dril first - then ream with the 31! Get it on square! The drills might not drill through if the case-hardening is thick - use good lube, high speed if this happens and punch on through - NOT INTO THE BBL
Harry B.
 
Changing calibers

I'm having second thought on keeping my mouser in 8mm. What would it take to change it to 30-06 or 7mm? Any recs or should I stay with the 8mm?
 
8mm

Dear Sir
The German 8X57 JS in Germany is loaded to the 50,000 cup limit - or more - here in the U.S. ammo is loaded to about 35,000cup due to the unfounded fear that some bores might be .318! As long as the neck clears it makes no difference!
The 8mm Mauser it a fine, powerful rifle - big enough for any North American game!
Load it to the 50,000 limit listed in your reloading manual.
Harry B.
 
i agree with harry bonar. i originally planned on changing calibers but i have since checked out the 8mm handloads in my manual. now, i think i will be quite content with 8x57.
 
caliber change

I was going to go with your recs but it's getting had to find a 8mm barrel and the once I've found are out of my budget. I've been getting multiple stories about changin calibers. I've been told that to change to a 30-06 or 7mm I just have to cange the barrel and adjust the headspace. Can somebody please clear this out for my because I have no idea of what to do. Thanks
 
yeah, thats all you have to do. however, that requires at least a barrel vise, action wrench(you could make this yourself if you can weld), and headspace gauges. you may need reamers as well if you get an unfinished barrel. its not like an ar15. that sucker is put together with some effort at keeping it together.
 
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