AK103K said:
I have to disagree here. I work in heavy construction.
In a forum we speak in generalities. If I was going to spend a lot of time on a boat, I would sharpen myself the top of the line Myerchin. A sharp Buck 110 would be a good choice for a deer hunt or an extended motorcycle trip. If a client wanted to build a new kitchen, I'd make sure they had some Hattori's or something from Mr. Itou.
I use a 90 cent chisel to refurbish my waterstones.
However, the fact remains that I can take a white steel Japanese laminate and polish it so that it is dangerous to touch. I was wrapping a finished piece for a client, took my eyes off of the knife
for a moment to answer a question she had, and sliced open my finger.
Now, the issue of "practical sharpness" is akin to the debate on "practical accuracy." You don't need a hand-built rail gun used in benchrest championships to hunt deer. Most of you will never need the over-polished edge I have on my jackknife--which I use to show potential clients my services.
I look at this in simple terms. I live in Wisconsin, and I drive a 4-wheel drive F-150. Short box, 17-inch tires, choppy ride, but excellent in heavy snow--like we had last week. If I moved to Arizona, I'd buy a car for comfort.
You may find a serrated knife practical (in your unique job), but the fact remains it is a poor second choice for the majority of people, it has no day-to-day value, it's a lousy substitute for proper edge care, and it makes horrible ugly cuts, which are more like chainsaw rips.
As a professional, I have sold two knives out of my pants pockets. In the final analysis, once demonstrated, a client would rather have a functional knife with a scratched handle than a new knife that doesn't cut at all.