Kimber Jammamatic-Now I am Outraged

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ANY 45 that won't feed hardball reliably is a problem....

However.. each gun and shooter is different like the suggestion said have some other people shoot it too. Does it still jam? is it your hold? Your magazine?? Might be something REALLY simple.

Overly tight tolerances seem to really befuddle a design created to feed reliably in combat conditions. I sometimes wonder if in our quest for more accuracy we have lost the point of stone solid reliability.

My 45's are all colts. And I'd like to get ANOTHER 1991a1 before they dissapear.

Dr.Rob
 
I would take the gun back to the dealer and either get a refund or have Kimber supply you with a new weapon. This all sounds like a good reason to by a Para Ordanance or a Springfield to me. I have heard many complaints about the quality of Kimbers weapons and thier control on there goods.
 
I called Kimber this morning and they told me to just stop using the ammo that jams (Remington/UMC yellow box 230 ball). I was also advised to lube the hell out of the pistol and shoot a bunch of stiff loads through it to break it in. As for the slide not locking back, they replaced the slide stop. Now I can't even release the slide with the stop because I am too big of a wimp to move it down with one hand. I have to drop the mag and pull the slide back like I do with my Glocks.

I have had two other people shoot the pistol and it malfunctioned on them two. I am going to lube the pistol and shoot a couple of boxes of hydra-shock through it, then send it back to the dealer if it doesn't "break-in". I have about 350 rounds through it and this is getting a bit expensive.

Anyone want to buy a new Kimber? It has been back to the Custom Shop for extra work. Didn't think so.
 
How much are you asking for the kimber?
and are you near Utah?

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"A fear of weapons is a sign of retarded sexual and emotional maturity." - Sigmund Freud
RAGE AGAINST THE MACHINE
 
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>I see a lot of Kimbers come through my door for repair. They are not the miracle 1911 that gun writers try to make you believe they are. You have just as many bad Kimbers on the market as Colts and Springfields.
[/quote]

That is from recognized pistolsmith, Brian Bilby. Read his posts concerning Kimbers. He speaks of jamming problems quite a bit in these threads.

I have said that any pistol I buy that is not reliable from round one goes in the river. I have bought my Colt GMs and Gold Cups
second hand, in like new condition. I have yet to throw one in the river.

If at all possible, when in search of a 1911, look in the used pistol case. There often are a few Colts (or GI pistols)available in nice condition.

They are sold back to the dealer by buyers who are horrified to discover that the monster kicks and spews brass. That's why the 9mm is so popular: She don' kick so much.

You would be happy to pay $500 for a stone reliable used Gummint Model in comparison to a $1000 new Kimber Boat Anchor, even though the GM don't look as purty.

Also, forget about changing out parts and learn to shoot. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Buy ammunition in an amount that costs more than the cost of your pistol and burn it up and buy some more. A three hundred dollar pistol and $700 worth of ammo beats a $700 pistol and $300 worth of ammo. Just MHO. OK, Rik, flame away! :D

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45 ACP: Give 'em a new navel!



[This message has been edited by BigG (edited November 18, 1999).]
 
Ankeny,

Doesn't matter if they put a new slide stop in it as the problem is the MIM slide stops Kimber makes. They are mostly out of spec. Get another kind. And your gun should work on hardball, no matter if it's Rem UMC, Federal or Winchester. Kimbers problem is that they have some guy sitting there with a box of frames and slides dropping them together until he gets a fit that feels good. Problem is that they slide is now riding on machining burrs or highpoints. Two things happen here. Either the burr will peel and cause the slide to slow up causing erratic slide velocities and malfunctions or the points wear and the fit loosens up.

I hear quite a few people talking about how the gun is tight, and feeds OK, but then say they have only shot a couple hundred rounds. Get a couple thousand through the gun and then see what happends. How tight is it now, how many malfunctions in that 2000? Most of the Kimbers I see loosen up at around the 1000 round mark. This crap that Kimber is telling you to lube up your pistol good and shoot it a bunch is puppy poop. The gun should be built that it works out of the box. Maybe a 50 round break in period to set the parts, but no more.
 
Ankeny,

I forgot to ask you in my rant, what are you using to lube the gun? The reason I ask is that stainless galls easy, and if not lubed properly with the right stuff will cause problems. That's why a stainless gun cannot be built as tight as a carbon gun. If so, the stainless galls or picks up and you have problems. Use a red lithium grease like the stuff Shooters Choice sells in a syringe or RIG stainless grease. Also Kellube is good for that too. Stay away from oils, especially those in a spray can.


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Brian Bilby
Advanced Combat Pistols
www.45acp.com
 
Thanks for all the input guys. I really appreciate hearing how each of you would handle the situation. I also appreciate the e-mail from you all. I have learned several things. First, all the Kimber hype and great reviews do not guarantee the consumer won’t get stuck with a lemon. Next, the Kimber Custom Shop has great turn around time, but their standard solution is to just throw parts at the pistol in the hope that the gun will heal itself. From the e-mail I have received, and your posts, it appears as though the repair shop has a pretty dismal record of making proper repairs the first time around.

I have called Kimber twice in the last two days and left voice mail regarding my screwed up slide stop. They haven’t even had the courtesy to call me back. Today, I mailed a very politically correct letter to the dealer (100 miles away) advising him that the pistol would be arriving by hand carrier (my brother) early next week. In my letter I thanked him for his time and concern. I also told him I wanted no ill will between us. I concluded by advising him that the only acceptable remedy at this point is a full refund. Frankly, I think many consumers today are way too tolerant of shoddy craftsmanship and poor customer service. If Kimber wants the reputation of building the finest production 1911 style pistol, they need to earn it.
 
ANKENY : Seems as though those who don't have a problem are the first to tell you to be patient,be nice,don't raise hell,and go back to square one and try again.Look around you. Those who raise the most hell get all the attention.I'll call someone at home at 3 am and tell them I can't sleep because of the problem they are causing me.I will tell them that If I can't sleep why should they? It works for me all the time.Of course sometimes I have to leave town for a while till things simmer down. Keep up the pressure untill you get the results you expect.
 
Look at the bright side, with the money you get back for the Kimber, you can go get a custom gun from somebody like Wilson, Baer, Rock River, Nowlin, Ed Brown, or .....
 
Where is Ron Popeil when you need him?

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"When guns are outlawed;I will be an outlaw."
 
The best answer here is send it back and demand your money back. I would assume that there is an implied warranty of some sort that the pistol should go bang 8 times in a row. Also, shoot for getting your UPS fees back, too. You probally won't, but what the hell - try it. If you're in love with the piece and want to keep it, I'd have someone who knows what they're doing check the relationship between the frame's feed ramp and the barrel. Then, the breech throat should be checked and recut if needed, then all of this should be polished super-slick. I used to get about $75 for this (provided the frame's feed ramp didn't have to be welded up & recut), and they never coughed again. Also, I'd stay the hell away from stainless and Remington ammunition.
 
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