KIMBER EXTRACTOR BROKE ! HELP ?
- Thread starter chaho
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Walt Welch
New member
Hmmm...well, to paraphrase my late, great colleague, Leonard 'Bones' McCoy, I'm a DOCTOR, Jim, not a GUNSMITH!
But I do remember seeing a column by Ed Brown in American Handgunner about fitting an extractor to a 1911, and I was surprised at how many little things there are to do. So, it seems that either Ed is too much of a fussbudget, or simply dropping in a new extractor is insufficient. I would think that checking the tension at the very least would be necessary.
I await the wisdom of the 'smiths here on the forum. Walt
But I do remember seeing a column by Ed Brown in American Handgunner about fitting an extractor to a 1911, and I was surprised at how many little things there are to do. So, it seems that either Ed is too much of a fussbudget, or simply dropping in a new extractor is insufficient. I would think that checking the tension at the very least would be necessary.
I await the wisdom of the 'smiths here on the forum. Walt
1911Heaven
New member
"Dropping in" an extractor is indeed a bit more complex than just dropping in the part.Go with the Wilson part#415@26.95 for a couple of reasons: It is machined from solid bar stock,the corners are already properly radiused,and,thoughtfully,it is already beveled on the bottom side to help the case rim slide up the breechface.About the only other thing I do to them is polish the face behind the hook to a mirror surface again to aid in the case rim sliding into place.This can be done by hand with crocus cloth or use a felt wheel Dremel with polishing compound.The fitting itself is not that difficult,but does require some trial and error.Remove the firing pin stop by depressing the firing pin and sliding down.Remove firing pin & spring.Remove old extractor;you may need a small screwdriver or other object to push it back out of place.Install in reverse.Checking tension is the trial and error part and Wilson does provide excellent instructions with the part.You are faced with two problems: If the extractor tension is too loose,empty cases will "dribble" out the pistol. If tension is too tight you will experience feeding problems as the case rim tries to overcome spring tension.This is the reason I polish the engagement surface so as to run about 1/2lb.higher tension for better ejection.Tension is set two ways: By bending the extractor into more or less of an "arc" as needed,and by filling down the locater pad behind the extractor hook.There also exists the possibility that the Wilson part may actually just drop in and be right--I have had it happen more than once.This would also be an excellent opportunity to fit an oversize firing pin stop that engages the extractor FIRMLY to prevent extractor "clocking" which due to side to side play of the two parts produces an erratic ejection pattern.Everything said will look alot simpler when you have illustrated instructions in front of you.Don't scrimp on this part; it is one of the most important "reliability" pieces needed in a 1911.
Walt Welch
New member
1911 Heaven; thank you for the informative reply; you covered the points that I remembered from the Ed Brown article.
I am amazed that you mention both methods of increasing extractor tension. When I was on a 1911 list, composed of rather opinionated gunsmiths, there was a sharp polarity between two groups. One held that the extractor was a goshdarn spring, and a ball peen hammer was the only proper tool to adjust tension with, and the other school held that removing metal from the inner side of the locator pad was the only proper manner to accomplish this.
Your position is very peculiar. More than one correct way to solve a problem. Imagine that!
(seems to make sense to me)
Thanks for your kind information. Walt
I am amazed that you mention both methods of increasing extractor tension. When I was on a 1911 list, composed of rather opinionated gunsmiths, there was a sharp polarity between two groups. One held that the extractor was a goshdarn spring, and a ball peen hammer was the only proper tool to adjust tension with, and the other school held that removing metal from the inner side of the locator pad was the only proper manner to accomplish this.
Your position is very peculiar. More than one correct way to solve a problem. Imagine that!
(seems to make sense to me) Thanks for your kind information. Walt
1911Heaven
New member
Walt- You are right; I too remember this polarity between the two groups well...both methods do have something to recomend,in fact,in a "difficult" fit requiring tension increase,I typically employ both methods so as not to overstress the metal.Sort of puts me in mind of the axiom I have lived by through the course of an engineering and avocational gunsmithing career ; IF THE ONLY TOOL YOU HAVE AT YOUR DISPOSAL IS A HAMMER, EVERY PROBLEM LOOKS LIKE A NAIL. Regards, Mike.