Breech fit is crucial, so make sure that is right before addressing the tang. Make sure the barrel is seated to where the touch hole location is correct. If the tang needs to go deeper to make that happen, then so be it. You definitely want the barrel/breech/tang to lay into place without being pulled by the screw. If you have any doubts whatsoever reach out to Jim Kibler, he is very responsive and helpful.
Kibler Kit
- Thread starter Hawg
- Start date
In Jim's video the end of the tang is pulled deeper with the screw. Barrel fit and touch hole is correct. I've decided to not file from the bottom but will file from the top like in the video.
I gave up on draw filing. The file marks were worse than the tool marks so I tried some 150 grit sandpaper and it works better. Definitely not faster but better and easier on my back. This is what I started with.
This is after 150 grit. I'll probably go on up to 320.
The stock is done at 320. Joke on me is I couldn't figure out why the patchbox cover didn't fit flush anymore. Then it hit me the butt plate wasn't on it. D'OH
This is after 150 grit. I'll probably go on up to 320.
The stock is done at 320. Joke on me is I couldn't figure out why the patchbox cover didn't fit flush anymore. Then it hit me the butt plate wasn't on it. D'OH
I've been working on it a little bit. I've got the stock done except for oiling. I forgot to take pics after I put the iron nitrate on but it was a grayish green. This is after heating and neutralizing. I like the color but the figure isn't as strong as I would have liked. Maybe the oil will bring it out better. The patch box lid came out darker. It also has places that are lighter even tho I got even coverage. I think the nose cap came out really well even tho I didn't want shiny.
ligonierbill
New member
Looks great. I wouldn't sweat the figure. In the day, many fine rifles had fairly plain wood.
When you use that stain you `lightly sand after.
The curlies and stripes are wavy grain. The stain hits side grain and end grain.
It penetrates the end grain deeper. Less deep on the side grain
So when you sand some of the "cinnamon"off you develop contrast and the stripes will jump out.
Can you find some scraps of curly maple for staining experiments?
Its been a long time...After sanding for contrast, I used a Feibling alcohol based leather dye . I don't recall the shade name but it MIGHT be Medium Gold.
Used test wood to develop just what you want.
The leather dye gives the light wood a warm glow. It can take a light,fine sanding
A red eraser makes a nice sanding block.
Please use some test wood to develop the finish. You want to know where you are going before you get there.
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OK,while I was writing you made a new post. You have already started with the oil.
I think additional staining is now questionable.
Its looking good!!
The curlies and stripes are wavy grain. The stain hits side grain and end grain.
It penetrates the end grain deeper. Less deep on the side grain
So when you sand some of the "cinnamon"off you develop contrast and the stripes will jump out.
Can you find some scraps of curly maple for staining experiments?
Its been a long time...After sanding for contrast, I used a Feibling alcohol based leather dye . I don't recall the shade name but it MIGHT be Medium Gold.
Used test wood to develop just what you want.
The leather dye gives the light wood a warm glow. It can take a light,fine sanding
A red eraser makes a nice sanding block.
Please use some test wood to develop the finish. You want to know where you are going before you get there.
-----------------------------------------------------------
OK,while I was writing you made a new post. You have already started with the oil.
I think additional staining is now questionable.
Its looking good!!
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I haven't updated this for awhile. Two problems. I had the ramrod fitting perfectly fitting before I stained and oiled it. I didn't get any stain or oil in the hole but now the ramrod doesn't fit. Not even the tapered steel tip will go in. I tried filing it down but realized there wasn't enough steel to file it down that far. So I'll work the other end down and let the tip show. The worst part tho is the lock. I didn't think a single trigger would have a fly but it did. I say did because I lost it. When I put the lock back together I tripped it out of the stock. Doing that it hit the half cock notch and broke the tip off of the sear. A retired master builder told me I could stone the tip and might be able to bend the tip of the spring to contact the frizzen but true to my nature I broke it. So now I have to get a new sear, spring and fly. I dis get it all together except for the ramrod and replacing the broken lock parts. Mistakes were made and I may fix some of them later on but probably won't.
I'm pretty sure he does. I know he copied a chambers lock but I don't know if the parts interchange. I made mistskes
and a few screwups but nothing that can't be fixed. I'm just tired of working on it.I've got nothing to actually redrill it. I chucked the ramrod up in a drill and ran the metal tipped end down and got it in until it bottomed out. I worked it back and forth maybe ten times, I wasn't counting. It was still tight and I couldn't pull it back out without the drill. I chucked the metal tip up in the drill and ran the big end down until it bottomed out and then worked it back and forth. It fit better but it was still tight but at least I could pull it back out without the drill. I chucked the ramrod up in the drill and hit the tip and about 12 inches of rod with a coarse file. Then I hit it with a piece of coarse emery cloth and some 220 grit sandpaper. Now it fits like it should. I'm going to wait until I work up a load for it before I cut it off.
ligonierbill
New member
Not unusual to have the ramrod too tight. Better than too loose, and you did the right thing. Nice looking rifle! When you smell the sulphur and put a ball through the black, you'll forget all the trials and tribulations.
Read post #34