Just Rceived My Pietta 1851 Navy

I think that on most of these guns at this price range-you might have burrs within the hammer channel and the hammer hand channel--polishing them out takes the stress off the springs--hopefully. And your guns cock smooth. You do not want a gun with the timing off. Make sure when it is fully cocked 12 o'clock--the loading lever drops in the bottom chamber smooth at 6 o'clock--repeat:)

WBH
 
I like to just break all the internal sharp edges with small files this includes the very edge of the arbor slot. I only take of the razor edges from machining.
 
Yeah dave-you are right. the devil horns on each side of that slot will catch the hammer and make it drag. They wont polish off but have to be lightly filed. Why don't these manufactures do this. Ok, we finish their job since they charged little. That's ok if this is our hobby (People that know little or nothing about these type of weapons) I wish they would inclose in their manuals some of this advise. But they wont until enough complaints come back.
 
Well, I've had a cap&ball revolver of some kind since 1976, and I just learned some things! Thanks for the info! :cool:
I am also learning to really appreciate Col Sam Colt's genius.
 
Well, guys and gals, I concur with Bigdog... I have learned a lot from this thread (and others on this site) and I heartily thank Goon and others for sharing their knowledge and to correction to my faux pas.

I used to work HVAC/refer and never minded instructing other guys on proper methods and procedures because I knew I still had a few tricks that I had not communicated. Goon knows far more than he offers (for free! while still offering his services) and that is why he is in business. Thanks, again, so much Goon!

I am still massaging the wedge in and out by hand with many, many repetitions as I am still nervous about sanding anything or removing any metal otherwise. It's just about there in terms of fit, but still have several hours to go.

I am still wondering about the wedge screw: what purpose does it serve other than a guide for the flat-sided groove in in wedge? I have seen YouTube vids that call for loosening it a 1/8th turn before removing the wedge, as if it locks the wedge in place. I don't see that as possible on my gun. The wedge moves no matter the position of the wedge screw. Am I missing something?

Thanks again for all of the input in this thread!

Jim
 
The wedge screw never needs to be touched. All it does is catch the lip of the spring to keep it from coming all the way out on disassembly.
 
Thanks much Jim!! (You are too kind!!)

The wedge screw is there to limit the removal of the wedge. It catches the lip on the end of the spring. This set-up also keeps you from losing the wedge when out in the field (literally, out in the field!! lol).
Some folks will file part of the screw head flat so that when the flat side is down, allows easy removal of the wedge (the lip of the spring has nothing to catch on).


Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com


Sorry Hawg, I'm a slow typer!!


I agree with Hawg, there's no need to remove the screw but, take it out anyway now and then and lube it just to keep it from seizing.

On the other hand, all of my opentops have been converted to fire cartridges and will remain that way. So, I use the "screw head with a flat side" method on all mine for easy wedge removal when cleaning (when I clean them, I don't shoot black powder!)
My wedge screws actually DO keep the wedge in because of the way I set them up to be a "captured wedge" . This set-up keeps in-ward pressure on the wedge and assures me (and my analness) that the wedge can't work loose. It also allows me to shave the right side of the wedge flush with the side of the barrel so I can mount an ejector with no interference.
 
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45 Dragoon worked on a Cimarron '51 Navy of mine.

I was NOT disappointed! It shot VERY WELL and was SUPER SMOOTH!

He will take of you, that's for sure! :D
 
@ 45 Dragoon Post #16

Goon,

Thanks so much for the info! I have had post-New Year's family company here for a while (ugh) who aren't gun friendly, and so the delay.

I was thinking of PM'ing you about my results, but PM's are limited in size and I'm usually somewhat (!) long-winded, so here goes:

I printed out your excellent instructions and have done the following:

Sanded (320 grit) judiciously both sides of the wedge until the lip of the wedge spring completely shows on the right side of the barrel flat. The wedge now protrudes about 1/32" on the right. The wedge is perpendicular to the barrel as I see it. Pulling back on the cylinder, I barely see daylight between the barrel and the cylinder. Cannot insert a .001" feeler gauge when pulling back on the cylinder or when it is at rest. The cylinder rotates easily and I see no drag marks on the front of the cylinder (I have actuated the action MANY times, also dry-firing against a strip of moosehide). The front of my pistol's arbor slot looks very square with no rounding.

Append: Also found an approx. .002"-.003" "ragged" edge protrusion on the right side of the rear wedge slot on the outside edge of the barrel and needle-filed it even with the slot. It made a considerable difference during the wedge fitting, squaring up the wedge (perpendicular) even though the "wedge" is just that. Hope you understand my verbiage.

I haven't fired the pistol, others have said the wedge will loosen upon actual use of the pistol, and you have stated that the wedge will take the beating (like the synthetic spacer on the recoil spring guide on my 1911 to prevent frame battering, I suppose ?).

I have re-blued (Perma Blue paste) the wedge/spring assembly and soaked it in oil. Upon fitting the wedge in/out & in/out many times since, I see very little wear upon the newly re-blued surfaces.

Unless you see something wrong with my methods/practices, I think I am going to leave it as it is now.

Once again, thank you for your frank expertise (for free!) and knowledge! You da man insofar as I am concerned! I'll try not to bug you anymore as you probably have more important things to do.

Sincerely,

Jim
 
Jim, you are most welcome. Exchange of information is what I like about the black powder folks. It sounds like you have done a good job, however, you still have the arbor length situation. So, all the work you've done could be compromised if the arbor is not addressed.I will PM you.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
 
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