Just picked up a new Savage 12FV

4

4T4MAG

New member
So I just picked up a Savage 12FV in 22-250. I am so excited. It has the accutrigger and heavy barrel. The stock seems like tupperware, I know the bedding in awesome however. I an certain that I will be replacing the stock. I am looking at the McMillan A3-5. I plan on striping the pretty blue finish and installing a flat/dull finish of some sort like duracoat or cerakoat or just about any other coating in a desert tan or similar. I am still debating on which scope to install. I will choose one of two that will be pirated from another rifle that I one. Which scope would you pick for a 22-250? Leupold VXII 3X9X40 or Nikon Monarch 4-12X40AO. I am thinking that Nikon. Which scope mounts? Weaver two piece or 20moa rail? I would prefer the 1 piece rail, would this work with the non-dbm?

Does anyone know where I can find the parts to convert this NON-Detach Mag to a detach box mag? Can this conversion be done? I am not really sure why I want to convert, all of my other rifles have a DBM.

Any recommendations for the coating to use?

Any other stock ideas besides the A3-5?
 
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Sharp Shooter Supply can help with all that, but be advised that he is a small mom-and-pop shop. He's one of the best for converting Savage rifles, but he is a small shop. When you call, he's going to want to know a few things, mainly whether your Savage is stagger feed or center feed. The easiest way to know which receiver you have is to measure the distance between the action bolts. The stagger feed action is 4.275", the center feed action is 4.400". The center feed actions are long enough for a detachable magazine and the conversion on those is very easy.

Another option is to call Savage directly. They've got the parts to convert your rifle and the prices are very reasonable, but their online parts finder isn't much help. Give them a call, my experience with the customer service has been very positive. The first question they are going to ask is your rifle's serial number, so have it handy when you call.
 
Hope you enjoy it. I have one that is the finest keyholing weapon ever made. Take it out once or twice a year and shoot it just for the pure fun of it. Ever saw a 55gr sierra hit a target at 25yds sideways ? Impressive! :D
 
Thanks for volunteering to take (the bad) one for the team. My 12FV is an excellent shooter. Before there was an Accutrigger, I added a Sharp Shooter Supply trigger to my 10FP that made all the difference.

--
Mike
 
I added a Bell & Carlson Medalist to my 10FP. Probably costs much less than the McMillan. As far as Sharp Shooter Supply goes, they have some good stuff. I had them build a Savage 6BR for me. Start to finish took about 6 months. Hard to get answers from quickly but Fred does good work. Their stocks are great but I don't think they come with a finish coat on them. I went with their LVT stock and has a great feel.
 
hootey said:
I have one that is the finest keyholing weapon ever made. Take it out once or twice a year and shoot it just for the pure fun of it. Ever saw a 55gr sierra hit a target at 25yds sideways ? Impressive!
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YOu'd think a 12-twist barrel would stabilize a 55 grain bullet. I've seen 12-twist barrels keyhole 62 grain bullets, but generally shoot a 55 just fine. Still, that proves the concept that all rifles are different.
 
Thank you for the help with my Savage. I have a DBM conversion kit on the way. Looks like the McMillan A3-5 is about $350 with basic inlet. Still have to figure out the bi-pod situation. I have been searching for one that is about 9" to 24" expanded.

As far as bullet stabilization goes, I would imagine if the bullet is going to fall apart it would be within the first 50-100yds or is it at the muzzle? d

Is CeraKote a great way to go? Or is there another coating that would be more durable?

PAWPAW, It looks like my Savage is a center feed. You mentioned to measure the distance between the action bolts, what do you mean by action bolts?

I have a date with a few coyotes.
 
CDI Precision Gunworks for DBM.

Actually, the easiest way to determine center vs. staggered feed is that, if the internal mag is attached to the action, it's a staggered feed. If it remains in the stock when you remove the receiver, it's a center feed. Got one of each...

Center feed is 4.4". Staggered feed is 4.27" spacing.
 
Which scope mounts? Weaver two piece or 20moa rail?
Click to expand...

The choice of using a 20 MOA rail would best be dictated by your choice of optic and more so, the amount of elevation it provides. Based on that info and the round you'll be shooting, you can determine if you need a rail with elevation built in or not.
 
4T4MAG said:
PAWPAW, It looks like my Savage is a center feed. You mentioned to measure the distance between the action bolts, what do you mean by action bolts?
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The two bolts (screws) that hold the action to the stock. Measure them center-to-center, that will tell you for sure which action you've got. One's in the bottom of the stock, under the front ring, the second is in the front of the trigger guard. Those hold the stock to the action.
 
Thank you PawPaw. Center to center it is 4.50. So I am in luck for the center feed mag.

I am wanting to mount a Nikon 4-12X40 AO. The leupold mounts have the scope so far forward. I need to find some different mounts. The two piece mounts hang over the action, making my center feed harder to load.
 
CDI Gunworks DBM Vs. ACME Univ. DBM

I am looking for some critique on the following conversion detachable box magazines.

1. The ACME Universal DBM. This one does not include the trigger guard area. It is on the box mag area. $150 + MAG cost.

2. The CDI gunworks DBM. This one includes the trigger guard. Does this require more inletting/fitting? It looks like this one costs about $209 + MAG cost.
 
Thank you for your help. I ordered the Choate tactical stock. It looks pretty solid. I also received the bottom metal from Savage. I hope it all goes together ok. I am sure I will have to modify the action screws. It seems like the screws from my NON DBM are really long and the screws for a DBM are shorter.

The Choate bedding system looks pretty solid. Is full aluminum bedding the way to go? Now, I just have to wait a week for the stock to show up.
 
4T4,You should enjoy the Choate stock.They are a little on the heavy side,but Fred Choate makes a good stock.

Savage action screws are a standard 1/4" bolt,if you need another length,you can get them at any hardware store.I usually just use a socket head bolt for an allen wrench to fit.

Some guy's will skim bed the action block in the stock,but I have never needed to do it on any of my Choate stocks.My 25/06,308,and 300WM all shoot great without bedding the action.
 
It doesn't sound like you need a 20 minute down-angle rail.

How far do you plan on shooting with a 9-12x?

Most scopes have at least enough internal adjustment to get you to at least 500-600 yards with a "capable" round that isn't dropping like a rock...
 
With the aluminum v angle bedding block in place, what are the benefits in adding a skim/glass bedding coat? Does the aluminum bedding damage the bottom of the action at all?

Tobnpr, I am not sure what scope I am going to go with. I had initially thought about using a Nikon 4-12x. I am looking at options. Being a 22-250 I am not looking for extreme long range. If I can get 600-800 I would be thrilled. I am saving the long range for a .338 Lapua build.
 
Be sure to check the scope you're considering for the range of internal elevation adjustment- and compare it to what you will need based on the range, and round, you will be shooting.

Got a smoking deal on a Nitrex TR-1 end of last year, supposed to be the "equiv" of the Weaver Grand Slam... I didn't realize at the time that with the 1/8 MOA click values it has an internal adjustment range of only 30 minutes- 15 up, 15 down....

With a standard base, we could get to 300 yards, but not 600, with the .308 it was riding on.

Put on a 20 minute base- and today as a matter of fact- got to 600 no problems, but then had only another 8 minutes of adjustment left...it wouldn't get to 1000.
 
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