Jumping in to Loading my own

H

HuntingLikeABadHabit

New member
I have been debating jumping into reloading for the better part of 5 years. I generally do a lot of research make me up a need list and fizzle out right before I start shelling out money. Well This last year I have been shooting more and have really had enough of the $20+ boxes of .45 so I took the plunge and ordered a bunch of reloading components. So far I have ordered the following:
Lee Single Stage Press
Powder Measure
Scale
Priming Tools
Cheap Trimmer and Debur Tool (for now)
Lee Reloading Manual (and I'm eye balling the Hornaday Manual while its on sale)
Case Tumbler
.45ACP dies
.40 S&W dies
Bullet molds for .40 and .45
Bullet Sizers for both and maybe a couple other odds and ends

I do need more dies for other calibers, .380, .357, .44, .38 etc but those will come in the future

I will likely stick to reloading for my handguns initially as I don't shoot a ton of rifle cartridges aside from sighting in and putting meat in the freezer. I would eventually like to load for my long guns but its more practical to load for my handguns initially. I would also like to cast and powder coat my own bullets eventually but that will be after I get into reloading for a little bit.

My question is this, what else should I get in order to be successful in my endeavors?
 
With the bullet molds and sizers, you'll need a lead pot to pour from. If you have the money, get the Lee 20# pot. I have the 10# and it works fine but I empty it pretty quick with 6-cav molds.
 
Manuals and loading info can be found all over the net, search and read.

Many times you will find much different info (powder weights) for the exact same bullets, so be careful and start with light loads
 
Smelting equipment is certainly on the list for soon purchase. I have a pretty good mass of lead and it seems to be easy enough to get WW's around here for cheap or free.

I will go to Cabelas, Bass pro or a local shop for powder/primers just to save on that hazmat shipping fee.

I really have no idea what powder to start with. It seems that everyone has their own opinions on powders. What one thinks is the devil another thinks is the best thing since the microwave. Opinions on powder are certainly welcome as I really dont know. Im leaning towards bullseye or greendot but I am not knowledgeable enough to make the call yet.
 
I reload, but have never seen the need to cast my own bullets. Maybe because I like to shoot jacketed bullets in my guns. YMMV though.
 
odds and ends

A comfortable loading bench and chair, good lighting, boxes to organize your small odds and ends, loading trays, bullet puller, calipers, notebook to log your reloads (case brand, primer, powder make and charge, bullet, C.O.L., and performance of the bullet) and labels for your finished bullets. Since you are loading for a .45 and .40, you should make sure your bullets pass the "plunk test" by either pulling the barrel out of your handguns or buying a headspace checker. Good luck and be safe.
 
A big ol' bite

You're taking on an awful lot at once.

As for your list, dump the Lee single stage, go right to the Lee classic turret. You say you're shooting a lot more, no reason to limit yourself to slow single stage loading for handguns. With a Lee auto drum powder measure, and the Lee safety prime on the turret, it's a mini progressive with it's auto advance engaged.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/814175/lee-classic-4-hole-turret-press

If you insist on a single stage loader, at least get the Lee classic cast single stage, it can use the Lee safety prime, which will speed up the priming process.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/317831/lee-classic-cast-single-stage-press

As for the lead smelting, find an old turkey fryer or fish fryer, just the propane burner. Then buy or scrounge up a cast iron dutch oven. Be sure the propane burner is plenty strong, because an eight quart dutch oven full of lead is nearly 200 pounds. Sort the zinc/steel wheel weights from the lead, zinc melted in with the lead will ruin the alloy for use as boolits.

As for a casting pot, the Lee 4-20 is a good choice for a beginner. I still use 3 of them even after 30 years! Yeah, the RCBS pro melt is better, but it's $387.00, compared to the Lee at $68.00.

A casting thermometer, some ingot molds, and some lube and sizers, you're in business!
 
Probable want to hold off on the casting until you know how to reload. One learning curve at a time.
Oh and .38 Special and .357 Mag can be loaded using the same dies. Just needs a spacer.
"...Lee Reloading Manual..." Lee tests nothing themselves. Their manual is copied from the powder makers' books. S'ok, but buy a Lyman manual. It's far more versatile than any powder or bullet maker's book.
 
Most definitely holding off on the casting until I reload for a few months or more. I just saw a sale and got while the getting was good on the molds.

Thanks for the info on the Lee manual I will be seeking out the Lynman and others.

A lot of good information coming, Thanks Guys
 
You asked about powder. I've used Unique for 40, 357 and 38, and I'm sure there are recipes using Unique for 45 as well. Some will say that it burns dirty, and it does seem to burn dirtier in 38 and 357 than in 40. Maybe it has something to do with case capacity. In any event, I've had good success with Unique.

I've been loading for 30 years and have never bothered to cast my own bullets. Easy enough to buy them for me, but if you want to cast, I would suggest that you start just loading with commercial cast bullets first. As was stated earlier, one learning curve at a time!
 
Also, How important do you consider a chrono?
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I use my chrono mostly AFTER I come up a load that both I and the gun really like, and then it's usually for a heavy hunting load, as I want to know how much energy the round is putting out and watch for anything freaky to happen speed wise to indicate I'm doing something I shouldn't.

Also, I didn't see case lube on your list. Carbide pistol dies don't "require it", but I still lube every 20th case or so just to keep the rust away from the dies.

If you're like me, as time goes on, you will add a piece here, add a piece there, and eventually have more stuff than you will truly NEED.

As far as powder, I don't reload 40, but 45 is a mainstay for me. Titegroup is one I believe can be used for both. I use it a lot for 45, but be careful, it's load comes no where to filling the case, so a double charge would be easy to do. On the upside, a pound (at around $25) of it will load a bunch of pistol rounds (1400 or so 45's)
 
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I think the single stage is a good choice for learning as you need to learn and get used to adjusting dies, a necessary step in reloading. If you can't properly adjust your dies you won't be able to troubleshoot any problems you encounter.

I wouldn't use the Lee manual (not a whole lot wrong with it but there are many better choices with much better "How To" sections), but recommend Lyman's 49th (you mentioned casting at a later time) and the Hornady is very good for jacketed bullets.

While some may recommend getting one right off, tumbling brass is not necessary. For many years I got by, quite successfully with only wiping each case with a solvent dampened rag as I inspected it prior to processing. Nope, no ruined dies, and yep, I could spot defects. And shiny, virgin looking brass shot no better thn my brown case ammo. If your ego needs bright shiny brass, then OK get the equipment.

You won't need a dedicated priming tool as priming can be done easily on your press, and I much prefer a ram prime.

Ferget the trimmer for handgun brass. The majority of reloaders here and other forums do not trim handgun brass (me neither). Same with primer pocket cleaning.

To start with, I'd recommend going with a tried and true load, for your 45 use a 230 gr. FMJ with a known powder/charge. This load has been used 17 bazillion times and every possible problem has been worked out and reported on dozens of forums. With experience, you can try other loads (like a 200 gr. LSWC which is also a very popular load).

Be safe. Go slow, double check everything, and most important, have fun...
 
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If you're using a load from a manual, you don't need a chronograph, the velocity is right there in the manual. Waste of money. Get a good digital scale.

Looks like a reloading block and powder trickler may be in order, I prefer to load cases separately when using a single stage press.

I want to try casting, too, so if I see a deal on the gear for it, I'm getting it, it can sit for months if it has to.

Hate to say this, but for a brass tumbler I'm sold on wet tumbling using stainless steel pins. If you can find a deal on a Thumbler or similar, take up on it. Not only does it clean very well, it's quieter, less vibration, and you buy tumbling media one time only, not twice a year.
 
If you're using a load from a manual, you don't need a chronograph, the velocity is right there in the manual. Waste of money.
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This may come as a shock to some of you reading this, but just because the manual's data says one thing, your particular gun has probably not read, or maybe chooses not to heed, what the book says a particular load is doing ...... you don't know until you have tested it, with your particular gun.

Waste of money? Maybe ......but some of us like to know, so it's not a waste for us. I also like to check a load's performance in varying conditions..... I want to know hw it performs in the cold, or on a hot day ..... some folks are maybe less inquisitive, YMMV.
 
+1, JimBob. You just never know what you have with a load until you measure it. Found that out when I ran the same .357 reload through a 6" barreled Ruger Blackhawk, a S&W M27 5" and my 4" PS-6, over a friend's chronograph. The 5" M27 was faster than the 6" Blackhawk. The 4" PS-6 came in last, but not as slow as I expected.

MY desire for a chronograph is so that I'll have another way to monitor pressures. When the velocities start climbing faster, per increment of charge weight, THAT'S A SIGN.
 
I was using the rcbs oil pad for case lube which was alright but a guy on here let me know about bag balm u can get at a pharmacy. It's 1 of the best things I bought for reloading so far. It almost seems sometimes the weight of the handle on my rock chucker could size the brass by itself and it's alot cheaper and less messy. I sized around 1500 rounds so far and hardly used any of it.it really help if you are resizing military brass.
 
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