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JB Weld for Mounting Scope
- Thread starter FrankieJames7
- Start date
Huffmanite
New member
Been two or three times, I've used JB Weld on the rear scope mount for a mauser rifle. I probably used its Kwick set version as I generally use it for bedding an action in a stock. The Kwick Set version is not as strong as the regular J.B. Weld. However, I've never had a problem with it when using on a scope mount for a receiver. IN short, Its worked for me.
Huffmanite
New member
Been two or three times, I've used JB Weld on the rear scope mount for a mauser rifle. I probably used its Kwick set version as I generally use it for bedding an action in a stock. The Kwick Set version is not as strong as the regular J.B. Weld. However, I've never had a problem with it when using on a scope mount for a receiver. IN short, Its worked for me. Now did i use it to secure the scope mount......nope. I still used the mount screws, just used the J.B. Weld to level the scope mount.
A general rule of thumb is that the slower an epoxy sets, the harder - and sometimes stronger it will be after it is set.
Sometimes the harder epoxy winds up being brittle, especially in a thin layer. In this case, a faster-setting epoxy may actually be the stronger choice as it will be less likely to fracture.
Sometimes the harder epoxy winds up being brittle, especially in a thin layer. In this case, a faster-setting epoxy may actually be the stronger choice as it will be less likely to fracture.
ndking1126
New member
I used JB Weld on a rifle scope mount one time when I was young. I had scope mounts come loose twice and was not happy. It hasn't moved... at all. Not even a little. I'll probably never change the scope mount or lower half of the scope rings however.
Over all I wish I had known what Loctite was. I would have gone with that in a heart beat over JB Weld.
I don't see any reason to use JB Weld. Use Loctite if you are having issues.
Over all I wish I had known what Loctite was. I would have gone with that in a heart beat over JB Weld.
I don't see any reason to use JB Weld. Use Loctite if you are having issues.
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I have bed a one piece mount to the receiver for a perfect match, same way that you would the action to the stock. I would read up on lapping the rings , using torque settings,or get a high end set of rings & mount like Ken Farrell's. If your serious about shooting for accuracy, get the best you can efford.
Sometimes J-B can be a big help if you have a large scope mounted on a factory action that uses small 6-48 screws to secure the rail.
I recently built a "Custom" on a R700 action. Only .223 caliber with a NF 12-42-56mm NXS on top. Would get "multiple groups". 3 in a single hole then 2 in a separate group. 10 shot groups did the same with two sets of "bugholes" on the target.
No amount of torqing, re-torking, would eliminate this.
I finally removed the rail, de-greased it and the top of the action, applied some J-B weld, and secured the base to the action. Not "Bedded" but "Bonded".
Result? No more multiple groups and the rifle now shoots Sub .25 MOA at all distances I've shot it at.
Did the same to my .308 and a month ago had to remove the base. The screws came right out (I waxed their threads before "bonding") and gave the rail a smack with a screwdriver handle. Popped right off. I noticed that gone were the usual rub marks I saw on all my other rails when removed for one reason or another indicating that they'd been moving under recoil.
Took only a few moments to remove a few bits of epoxy that remained stuck to the action by using the square back edge of my pocket knife.
I wouldn't do this with the ring to base mounting or likewise on the scope. If the scope is slipping, try some fine ground rosin. If the rings are slipping on the rail, get some rings that have Picatinney LUGS on the bottom like Seekins or Vortex. The lugs fit the slots almost perfectly and don't allow for any movement.
I recently built a "Custom" on a R700 action. Only .223 caliber with a NF 12-42-56mm NXS on top. Would get "multiple groups". 3 in a single hole then 2 in a separate group. 10 shot groups did the same with two sets of "bugholes" on the target.
No amount of torqing, re-torking, would eliminate this.
I finally removed the rail, de-greased it and the top of the action, applied some J-B weld, and secured the base to the action. Not "Bedded" but "Bonded".
Result? No more multiple groups and the rifle now shoots Sub .25 MOA at all distances I've shot it at.
Did the same to my .308 and a month ago had to remove the base. The screws came right out (I waxed their threads before "bonding") and gave the rail a smack with a screwdriver handle. Popped right off. I noticed that gone were the usual rub marks I saw on all my other rails when removed for one reason or another indicating that they'd been moving under recoil.
Took only a few moments to remove a few bits of epoxy that remained stuck to the action by using the square back edge of my pocket knife.
I wouldn't do this with the ring to base mounting or likewise on the scope. If the scope is slipping, try some fine ground rosin. If the rings are slipping on the rail, get some rings that have Picatinney LUGS on the bottom like Seekins or Vortex. The lugs fit the slots almost perfectly and don't allow for any movement.
If the rings are slipping on the rail, get some rings that have Picatinney LUGS on the bottom like Seekins or Vortex. The lugs fit the slots almost perfectly and don't allow for any movement.
Worth noting, because I find more than a few shooters are unaware of the fact that rings need to be seated forward in their relative slots before tightening- same as a rifle's buttstock should be bumped on the ground to seat the recoil lug before snugging the front action screw first.
Tightening the ring base anywhere else in the slot where's there's forward movement possible is an invitation for it to move.