JB Weld for Mounting Scope

F

FrankieJames7

Inactive
I've been thinking of using JB weld to help secure the picatinny rings to the rail, and possibly even on the outer edges of the rail where it mates with the rifle after the rail is installed. Let me know what your guys thoughts and/or experiences are.

i have no problem with rings shifting around but was thinking it will not only provide movement security for the rings but glue the gun parts together in order to create a more sturdy and stronger action with less harmonics. Winchester 70 long action, badger ordnance hardened steel rail, and burris steel rings.
 
I can't imagine what good could possibly come from this. Get a torque driver, torque everything to 20 in-lbs, and be done with it.
 
Agree with Llama Bob. Don't see any good coming of it. A properly mounted scope shouldn't need any of that. Proper, even torque with lapped rings should do it
 
I use JB Weld to glue carbon inserts in aluminum arrows because it is the only glue I have found that will hold them in. In this case it is a bad idea as you may never get them apart without ruining something.
 
No.

Not helpful.


If you don't think the parts are mating properly, you could try epoxy bedding the rail to the receiver (under the rail - not around it). But everything else is a waste of time and resources, and a good way to create a huge headache for the future.
 
Very bad idea. And besides, such a thin application of JB weld would be very brittle when it dry. How about some 272 Loctite? I think even this is not needed for what you want to do.
 
possibly even on the outer edges of the rail where it mates with the rifle after the rail is installed. Let me know what your guys thoughts and/or experiences are.
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Not this way, but bedding the rail itself is commonly done. I install a lot of mounts on Mosin-Nagants, and it's SOP to epoxy bed the mounts because of shimming/imprecise fit to the receiver.

Because of modern tight CNC tolerances and consistency this usually isn't necessary on recent manufacture rifles (no reason to introduce epoxy bedding if there are zero gaps for it to fill).

If you suspect gaps between the mount and the receiver, by all means epoxy bed it. Be sure to use a lot of release agent on the receiver and sides of the mount-and the screws as well.
 
I once used JB Weld to even out the base for a 1 pc. scope mount, on one of my Mausers. Also anchored several of the screws (holding the mount in place) in it, to make for a "permanent" installation.

It was not permanent. The JB Weld cracked and let go, despite very careful application, after only a few hundred rounds. The screws didn't hold, either. The JB Weld was simply not up to the vibration from firing the rifle.

So, I would say, used thin in such an application as the OP is contemplating, that he will likely experience the same results.

Besides, as others have said, it isn't necessary, anyway. If concerns about screws working themselves loose exist, use Loctite on them.
 
I have an old mil-surp rifle that has the scope BASE glued to the receiver with JB Weld for close to 30 years and unknown number of rounds. But I wouldn't recommend what you're proposing. If you feel there may be an issue, then use a one piece rail clamp/ring set.
I for one, haven't had any problems with ring to rail interface. In some cases, the rings needed to be swapped around to give better alignment but they don't loosen.
 
Epoxy products work best sandwiched between parts, not so much when used around the edges.
And the better the fit, the better the hold.
Preparation and cleanliness is most important, too.
Personally I haven't had any better results between one epoxy product over another.
They all seem to work about the same, regardless of the color or the name.
Properly sized and fitted scopes don't need any goop or fillers.
Badly fitted ones will probably loosen regardless.
 
i will have to see after i get it in the mail first but the scope rail has a recoil lug that is supposed to fit against the front of the ejection port. if it fits perfectly i will just leave but if it has a gap in this area i will jb weld that area. the current aluminum base i have has fits nice so i don't see why this one wouldn't fit good but there's only 1 way to find out
 
As long as you can afford new rings and rails, and don't care about resale value, go right ahead.

They make torque drivers for a reason, called 'disassembly'.
 
I think the cons of this idea far outweigh the pros. One piece rings and bases have been around for a while now and I've not heard of anyone saying they are, or make a rifle more accurate.
 
I use Locktite Stud and Bearing mount under bases and High-Strengh (Red) Locktite on Base Screws, but nothing on rings except powdered rosin. Nothing has moved when doing that.

Be careful not to let powdered rosin get into the action...use a rag to keep it out until screws are tightened and it's blown out of crevices.
 
"...create a more sturdy and stronger action with less harmonics..." Glue, even epoxy, won't do that. Like won't stick well on a smooth surface either. Mind you, other than requiring heat to get off should you ever decide to change the rail, it won't do anything horrible either. Unnecessary, for sure though.
 
I've been thinking of using JB weld to help secure the picatinny rings to the rail, and possibly even on the outer edges of the rail where it mates with the rifle after the rail is installed. Let me know what your guys thoughts and/or experiences are.
Click to expand...

I think you're trying to solve self-invented problems. If you want to ensure screws won't loosen, get some purple thread locker. It's made for small, fine threads and is removable.

Use a torque screw driver with the appropriate bit and tighten the screws to 20-inch pounds. You're done until you want to remove the mounts or scope.
 
I once had a customer come in with an autoloading shotgun, and he wanted a picatinny rail on top.

The aluminum receiver was paper-thin, not giving the screws much purchase. It was maybe 1/16" thick on top.

So I roughed up the top of the receiver, and the bottom of the rail, drilled and tapped the receiver - and put it together with Devcon steel epoxy plus the screws.

I see that guy regularly, he's a steady customer. No complaints after six months.

He says he put an optical sight on it.
 
I wouldn't unless you have a mount that fits poorly.

I bedded a mount to an M1A to get it to work, but I wouldn't bother if it didn't have a habit of shooting loose several times an hour.
 
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