It it worth the money to buy and replace a barrel or buy a new upper?

I've seen experienced builders post pics of their latest lower with broken ears from beating the roll pins in. They followed the TM and used the recommended tools.

And then guys like me - who have been working with hand tools for 35 years - can chuck an upper in a bench vise with jaw inserts and tighten a barrel nut with some 18" channel lock pliers. It's NOT rocket science. You can assemble most of an AR with vice grips. If anything, the armorer's tool kit is mostly there to disassemble large frame automatic weapons. A lot of civilians miss the point.

The real problem with "What's easier?" is knowing skill levels and confidence. It's a personal assessment of what risk someone can take. I've seen 18 year old farm girls fixing a flat on a horse trailer, and 240 pound guys call AAA because they can't find the jack on a Corolla.

Nobody on the internet can tell you what will work out, just relate what they can do. After that, it's pick one and try it.
 
^^^
Sums it up pretty well!
I told my son to cover the surrounding surfaces with blue painters tape to minimize the risk of screwing up the anodizing...

The way you learn about "tinkering" with firearms- unless you have a friendly smith nearby that doesn't mind someone looking over their shoulder- is by doing. Preferably on a firearm that's inexpensive, or with tasks that are tough to screw up. Ten years ago, all of this "self-taught" stuff would have been impossible.

With forums like this, online videos from both amateurs, professionals, and companies like Brownells, it's simple to learn most of this "stuff". Like anything else, you need the right tools for the job. But with those in hand, and good step-by-step instructionals, it's not rocket science.

I wavered back and forth for weeks on whether to attempt my own trigger job on my Mini-14. Military triggers can be temperamental....and unsafe if done incorrectly. There's a very knowledgeable smith that specializes in the Mini, and he has a lengthy, step by step vid on exactly how to do it. I watched it five times end to end before picking up a tool, then took every bit of 4 hours painstakingly watching and "doing". It came out t***. No takeup, and just a hint of creep. 3 lb pull (target gun). Tonight, I'm going to start a cut, re-crown, and thread job (brake) on my sporter Mosin-Nagant. If I screw it up, cut off another inch, try again... If I really screw it up, buy another gun for $79.00. Less than what I'd pay a smith to begin with.

There's a sense of satisfaction that many of us get by DIY. It's important, as Tirod just said, to know your limitations- and know whether you really do need specialized tools. Odds are, if you're the type that has never needed to call a "handyman" to fix something at your house, you can handle light gunsmithing.
 
I'm not seeing your logic of "using heavier loads as my skill increases". The 69 grain and heavier bullets are mainly for long range target work since they hold velocity and resist wind deflection better than lighter bullets. They aren't going to make much difference until you get past 300 yards. I shoot 55 grain bullets @300 meters and the wind drift is noticeable but manageable and makes that range more challenging. BTW I've shot 69 grain HPBT in 1/9 barrels and was satisfied with the results. Most AR's built in the last 10-15 years are going to be 1/9 or faster.
 
Yeah, it's amazing how fast that spare upper becomes a complete rifle. Y find yourself thinking "Hey, I can get a lower, LPK, and stock for under $250... then I won't need to swap anything over!
Click to expand...

Amen to that brother. The "spare" upper has turned into a full rifle on me three times:)
 
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