Issue with bolt not closing

The Redding Comp set comes with three dies -- neck sizer, seater, and full-length body sizer die.

Now I understand your comment about backing off 1/4 turn with the neck sizer.
That is correct. The neck die is not used yo resized the case.

But did you just say that now you are now using it for that ?
 
I would suggest you identify the dies you are using, the bulge at the shoulder neck juncture could be caused by 'the dreaded donut'. There is no answer for that problem, I have always said the donut was caused by bad habits.

I think I have figured it out.



The Redding Comp set comes with three dies -- neck sizer, seater, and full-length body sizer die.

Now I understand your comment about backing off 1/4 turn with the neck sizer.
That is correct. The neck die is not used yo resized the case.

It would seem by the time a thread gets to 18 responses the dies, rifle and chamber would be well established.

I believe it is a big mistake or bad habit to start new reloaders off in a dead run with more die and equipment than they can handle.

There are not many neck sizing dies I do not have, I do not use them but I have them JIC. I can neck size with a full length sizing die and of course; the feeler gage, the companion tool to the press. When I am neck sizing with a full length sizing die I do not want the body sizing part of the die touching the body of the case.

F. Guffey
 
I started off using the basic FL size/seater by rcbs. I was getting very good results, but was look for something more. I won't be using the neck die to bump the shoulder. I'll admit, it's kind of confusing now. I have been at the for almost a year now, and haven't had any issue until no. Kind of frustrating.
 
I won't be using the neck die to bump the shoulder

That is because the neck sizing die is designed to neck size only, the neck sizing die should never make it to the shoulder of the case. And then there is that 'bump' thing. When my sizing dies contact the shoulder of the case the die is contacting the neck, shoulder and case body of the case meaning it is impossible to bump the shoulder without bumping everything else.

And then there are my presses, I have bump presses:eek: they are designed to bump when the ram is raised. My bump presses bump twice because all of my bump presses are cam over presses. If my press does not cam over it is not a bump press. I have 3 Rock Chucker presses, none of my Rock Chucker presses cam over because they are not bump presses.

F. Guffey
 
And then 'YOU' back the die out 1/4 turn? I don't.

I didn't read through every reply, but this is usually correct. In fact, I sometimes find I need to turn the die further IN so that it cams over hard against the shellplate, and takes out every bit of slack.

You have the OAL gauge, you NEED to get the headspace gauge as well. It's a comparator like the OAL- and you use it to compare length to shoulder from your fireformed brass to what's coming out of your die.

Use the comparator to set your shoulder bump to .002. The brass will flex back a bit after sizing- so you'll end with maybe a thou less than that, at about .001.
If it's still hard to chamber, bump it back .003 to start.

There are rare instances where-dependent on the chamber- you can't get enough shoulder bump, and the die will need to be ground. Hornady provides this service if needed and you can't DIY.

Far as neck vs full-length, it's an age old argument with no "right" answer. There are plenty of comp/benchrest champions that FL size every time, all the time as I do with great results. If the brass is minimally sized- correctly- there is no significant loss to case life.

Anyway- get yourself the LNL headspace gauge. You cannot reload correctly without it IMO.
 
Solano said:
I'll admit, it's kind of confusing now.
Actually, you were doing pretty good. ;)

- Start off with a Full-Length sized case (whether you use the RCBS sizer or the Redding full-length sizer doesn't matter.)

- Run the several next reloads using the Redding neck [only] sizer (backed off from ram/shellholder contact by 1/4 turn -- just like the instructions told you)

- When bolt closings gets even slightly hinky again, Full-Length** resize everything (either RCBS or Redding) and start the sequence over again.





** we can talk the "bumping" game later. For now, just size`em Full. :D
 
Not sure if this matters but I'm using a Lyman turret press. I am thinking of getting the rock chucker for my rifle cartridges. I do have the case headspace gauge by hornady. It's showing .001-.003 difference between fired/unfired cases.
 
Anyway- get yourself the LNL headspace gauge. You cannot reload correctly without it IMO.

I loaded my first cartridge back in April, 1963.

In all the times past, the only gauges that I have are dial calipers and various micrometers.

I have never had the need for any other gauges.

When I was in grade school and college, we used the slide rule. Never had the need for a calculator, and most professors would not allow them.

I am assuming that calculators and gauges are a way of life now days.

I also stated handloading life with full length resizing. As I gained experience, I learned to fit the cartridge to the chamber with my gauges; and I also used engineer's blue (another form of Prussian Blue).
 
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