Is this a safe way to remove the wedge?

I have that exact pin puller.
The gap in between the claw is a bit narrow for my CVA so I opened it up a tad.
I've been using it for several years at this point & is hasn't done any harm pulling the pin out.
I have missed with the hammer end getting it back in so I glued a bit of leather to the head to prevent mis strikes from marking up the washer on the other side.
 
In case someone is looking for conclusion of this thread, the tool came in and I was able to take out the wedge. It was so tight that even brass puncher got visibly deformed, but not to the point where it can't be used in the future.

The tool that did the job was knurled brass drift punch from Track of the Wolf
 

Attachments

  • tool-key-b_1.jpg
    tool-key-b_1.jpg
    7.8 KB · Views: 41
I think ya shoulda sent it to NASA !!

I have to say, I haven't had one come in the shop that required more than a sharp rap with a hard plastic hammer. Leaves no marks.
Hard plastic hammers ARE tools specifically designed to use without damage to the item. They don't bend and you don't "hope" you can use it again on the next one. I've had the same one for 35+ yrs.


Oh well.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
 
My apologies, I thought we were talking right out of the box (first time removal).

After the first time out, the butt of a screwdriver (plastic or wood) should be enough. Of course, with the right setup, there's no need to remove the wedge till you're ready to clean it (back home/camp). So, your hammer is home or at camp . . . . . . .;)

I'm just yanking your chain a little.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
 
I haven't seen one lately, but for years they sold an aluminum tool that worked well and wouldn't mar or deform the iron of the gun. I always used a plastic hammer and never had a wedge fail to come out. The spring should not have to be held down; the "locking" part is just a hump, not a sharp edge.

Jim
 
The spring should not have to be held down; the "locking" part is just a hump, not a sharp edge.

Jim

Heh-heh.

Unless one owns a 1963 (XIX) (first year of manufacture) ASM Replica 1848 Pocket Pistol 6" Squareback TG with load lever. The right-end of the wedge spring is much more than a bump and has a nearly vertical left edge. The wedge is very easy to remove only if one uses thumb-nail pressure on the RH end of the spring to remove the wedge while pushing the wedge to the left. The pistol I have has the wedge fairly easy to remove in this manner. The arbor is actually a very good fit to the barrel arbor recess (Goon needs to chime in here). Actually no need for the wedge capture screw on the left side of the barrel unless one is clumsy while fieldstripping the wedge, barrel, and cylinder in the field. I would post a pic but I have done so many times here.

There are many anomalies with this ASM pistol that conflict with many modern (2000 + date) Italian copies as well as the original Colts, including the rammer pivot screw entering from the right side, and the rammer pivot slot having terrible machining. Pietta and Uberti have gone to CNC machining since ~2000 and all of the older copies are a hit or miss situation, and that presents another collector era insofar as replicas are concerned.

Jim
 
Back
Top