Is this a safe way to remove the wedge?

R

Rival

New member
Just recently picked up Pietta 1851 Navy, wedge is pain in the butt. Could not find brass rod, and tried to hammer it out with wood and plastic with no luck. Wood was a real bad idea, as it splintered between wedge and the spring, and jammed it even worse. Plastic just gets deformed and obliterated.

Anyhow, I stumbled across this video on youtube, where guy is taking it out with wedge pin puller that seems to be purposely designed for rifle forend wedge and is made of hardened steel. My worry is whether or not its going to leave any marks/dents on the frame (mine came with steel frame not brass).
 
You need to use a hardwood like Cherry or Maple or Walnut and brass.

This is a four handed affair. One to hold the gun, one to push the wedge spring down with a brass or wood punch and another two hands to hold a wood or brass punch on the wedge while whacking it with a hammer. After a time or two it will likely become a one handed affair.
 
Most of the time, a good whack with a plastic hammer is all you need. The spring is only there for the lip at the end to catch the head of the wedge screw which keeps you from loosing it.
Sometimes on more problematic wedges, I will make a divot on the end to place a punch.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
 
This was my wedge puller for my T/C long gun, I added a piece of rawhide (dog bone material) to the face for using on my Colt wedges .
 
Thanks for the video link.
It looks like a neat tool to have.
If your wedge is really stuck after using a wooden dowel (a no-no, as you discovered), try a little well placed heat from a small torch to do away with the wood and plastic bits.
Carefully done, it shouldn't harm the gun or finish.
If you go with that tool, and do it like the video shows, it also shouldn't do any harm.
Isn't that what it's made for?
 
I just helped a friend learn how to shoot a new Pietta 1860 Army. I was glad to see that Pietta is still gainfully employing "Egor" to install their wedges. :eek: Talk about "tight"s!

I have a small brass hammer with about a alb head on it that I machined up many years ago. I just gently whack the end of the wedge on my '51 Uberti and it will come right out.

On your Pietta . . . the screw on the opposite side is supposed to retain the wedge once it's pushed through . . . don't depend on it as often times the wedge will come right out. Just say that so you don't loose it . . .. you know the Murphy's Law . . . once it hits the floor in the reloading room it's gone forever! :D

It will get better the more you use it. Check the slot in the end of the cylinder pin for burrs, etc. left over from production. Sometimes there are som that hold things up as far as getting the wedge out. I have always taken my wedges and polished them on a oiled very fine sharpening stone - I do the corners o the edges as well just to knock off he sharp edge. Ideally, after it is broken in, it should only take thumb pressure to remove and replace . . . but that doesn't always work out. :)

Enjoy your new Navy! One of Colt's best designs but then we all have our "favorites" and none of them are wrong!
 
By the way, where can you get a fitting brass rod? I tried looking in Lowe's and Home Depot, and the only things I was able to find are big oversized brass rod for electrical grounding and "brass" door hinge pin. The hinge pin did look all right, but I really don't think it's made of solid brass, and I did not want to take a chance.
 
Ace Hardware. The ones around here carry small brass and metal tube, rod and plates which is the exact same stuff the hobby shops carry for modelling.
 
Just be careful if you do the "thumb pressure" thing. It's too easy for a wedge to get loose and that allows the wedge to be destroyed. That also screws up the barrel assy and causes arbors to be stretched. I'm a strong believer in tapping the wedge in and out. You shouldn't need to remove the barrel untill you're ready to clean it anyway (unless you're one of these off the gun loaders).

A very wise gun tuner advised me to put away stones and use files. Haven't used a stone since ( and things got better). Stones change their surface with each stroke, a file will stay flat.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
 
That video is such a load of bull.

1. The tool did not fit, I had to file the "claw" part of the tool for a fit.
2. The tool left marks on the gun even though I used the patch under it and was tapping lightly with a rubber mallet.
3. The tool got completely bend and destroyed in the process without the wedge moving at all.

Guess I have to go out and shop for a brass rod.
 
Hey guys can you help me out, I wanted to buy brass rod off Amazon since there are literally none in local hardware stores (yes, I did call the local Ace hardware store, they don't have it). But Amazon has all sorts of rods of different dimensions, can you suggest one that will work for tapping out this damn wedge?
 
Mine are similar to that but adds a threaded pic and decapper.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EMSS1159-Br...hash=item540213d943:m:m7JCmzP9jrUS0NM8supAnaQ

http://www.jedediah-starr.com/closeup.asp?cid=187&pid=2962&offset=0

http://possibleshop.com/s-s-tools.html

For you fellas, who coming by years later come upon dead links, it's the EMSS (Eastern Maine Shooting Supplies) part number 1159.

You can also get quality tools made in the USA from Grace USA, their Colt Peacemaker set and brass punches for example are in daily use on my workbench.
 
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You might try.....

Douching it down with some form of penetrating oil.

Then maybe heating it up with a heat gun or hair dryer. Heat the barrel lug and heat it from the tappered end of the wedge.

On wedges that were really tough to get out, I found it helpful to take the time to make a supporting jig from wood that is harder than pine. Most of the support must be at the barrel lug. I cut a piece of plastic from a soda bottle or milk carton. Soda bottle is better since most are completely transparent and you can see what you are doing. Use the plastic strip to protect the pistol and wedge.

In these situations I was prepared to sacrifice the wedge. But I wound up not having to do so.

This is going to sound strange but I used the heaviest of three pall peen hammers. I was very careful and things turned out okay.

I have never tried this but I have often wondered about using a relatively large socket, one that is large enough so that the wedge fits inside the socket. place the socket on a solid surface with the business end up. Lay the pistol with the left side down (right side down if it is a Walker) and the lug of the barrel resting on the socket such that the wedge is inside the socket. Make sure to protect the pistol with that plastic piece both sides. Now use a hammer to tap the wedge out. I want to emphasize...I have never tried this, but if I had a really stubborn wedge, I would.
 
I made this wedge tool/screwdriver combo for my long gun. I also use it on my Colt's, what I did was soak some rawhide (dog chew toy), in some water, cut off a piece and tied it to the hammer face...definitely a no-mar "wedge whacker"!!
 

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Hello everyone , my 1st post here but I have been following this thread from the get - go because I ordered an 1860 colt from Cabela's and the big brown truck came today.
Great looking gun and feels "just right" in my hand, anyway the first thing I did was to get all the factory oil off of it and then it was time to hammer the wedge out ( this is my first cap and ball by the way) or so I thought .
With one tap from my little Nylon/brass hammer that comes with the Wheeler punch set it came right out.

I was gobsmacked , :eek:,,,,,, did I just get lucky or what ?????.

Oh and it's a joy to be hear and thanks for having me.
 
Two responses....

SLTM,

I think I recall seeing photos of your invention from a previous post some time ago. I admired it then and I still do now.

Gavlan,

Welcome to the forum. Good choice on the pistol and best of luck having fun with it.
 
I've got about 6 BP revolvers now and thankfully none of them has had a wedge that required more than a smart rap from the wooden or plastic handle of a screwdriver.

I think if I had a really stubborn one I would oil the wedge and then attempt to press out the pin into a large socket as suggested above, using the socket to support the frame and a block of wood to bear against the the wedge, and squeeze it in my machinist vice while holding the frame in my hand to keep it from rattling around when the wedge popped free. I think slow and steady pressure would be preferable to beating on it with any kind of punch.

Steve
 
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