Is there any point to this 1911 modification?

Both Jerry Keefer and Joe chambers are very talented smiths as a matter of fact I've complemented Joe on his work numerous times.

However the analogy that Joe uses about pushing the ball with two points instead of one is true especially if the two points can be moved independently, but I do not agree with that analogy on the stripper rail modification.

When it comes to stripping a round for feeding I'm sure JMB thought things through enough to realize the back of a 45 round is a radius and there's more contact of that radius in the center of the stripper rail then there would be at two small contact points on the outside of the stripper rail.

Myself I'll keep building my guns without the stripper rail modification, therefore saving my clients some money in machine time.

As I said before, I never had issues to where I thought the modification was necessary, even in full house compensated steel guns with 6 pound recoil springs.

To each his own.

Best Regards
Bob Hunter
 
Just to add to the confusion mix, I have a 1911 clone built from a stripped Olympic Arms frame and a 1992 J. A. Ciener .22 conversion kit, with the balance of parts coming from Sarco, Numrich, Wolff, and Hogue.

I won't post a pic unless requested.

The sear spring is the only thing that exerts any pressure on the sear, disconnector, trigger, and grip safety, and that is minimal at best. The Wolff sear spring is for any caliber 1911 as it only affects those 4 parts. The mainspring pressure upon the slide retracting when fired is much more of a concern: the standard GI .45 mainspring is ~23#. The Wolff mainspring in my 1911 .22 is 19#. In addition, the Ciener .22 slide recoil spring is so light that a 3-year-old kid can manipulate the slide easily, so any reference insofar as pressure from the disconnector impacting the slide movement is a moot point, with or without that modification. I might add that this pistol functions just fine.

I agree with Mr. .45 Auto about 98% with the exception being concerning the part about the disconnector retracts upon the pull of the trigger. Even his excellent link showing the virtual firing of a 1911 distinctly shows (quite properly) that the disconnector is engaged by the slide upon firing and is only reset by the release of the trigger.

I think that slide modification is money poorly spent unless one has to have the best of the bestest, for what that is worth. I am not one of those people.

Thank you Mr. Browning.

Jim

Edit: For all of you purists, I've got a reworked ~1990 AMT Covina Hardballer Stainless (eeeww!) that I purchased used for $150 in 1992 that I repaired and throated that will run with hollowpoint rounds without a hiccup.
 
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Just to add to the confusion mix, I have a 1911 clone built from a stripped Olympic Arms frame and a 1992 J. A. Ciener .22 conversion kit, with the balance of parts coming from Sarco, Numrich, Wolff, and Hogue.
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Thanks for adding to the "confusion mix" but you don't have a 1911 ok?
 
What is your definition of a 1911?
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A 1911 by design and and definition is a short recoil operated firearm.
What you claim to have is a straight blowback operated firearm.
Evidently you do not know the difference.
You do not have a 1911.
 
A 1911 by design and and definition is a short recoil operated firearm.
What you claim to have is a straight blowback operated firearm.
Evidently you do not know the difference.
You do not have a 1911.
Click to expand...

Regarding disconnector function, there's no difference in a blowback or short recoil operation.
 
The middle part of that block where he removed material is the part that most strongly engages the circular rim of the cartridge at its highest point, to strip it out of the mag. So now he's relying on the two "teeth" at the leading edges of the block to do this but they will engage the cartridge head with less "purchase" on either side, on a lower point on the exposed rim, and therefore reduce reliability ...or so it seems to me. I think let's trust John Moses on this one.
 
Hi, expendable,

If I get well paid to paint guns purple, I will claim that painting guns purple does all kinds of good things. This is another version of the old full length guide rod business. An FLGR does aid in extraction - the extraction of money from the owner's pocket and putting it into the pocket of the FLGR seller. Other than that a steel one adds a little muzzle weight, it does nothing else worth while.

Jim
 
I don't know Jerry or Joe personally and I don't have this particular modification on any of my 1911's but from what I've read of their work I don't think they would modify their guns in this way unless they saw a true benefit from it.

Koz
 
I know two things, John Browning's designs were perfect and the beginning of last century. Gaston Glock's designs were perfect at the end of last century through today. Don't mess with the designs.
 
If I get well paid to paint guns purple, I will claim that painting guns purple does all kinds of good things. This is another version of the old full length guide rod business. An FLGR does aid in extraction - the extraction of money from the owner's pocket and putting it into the pocket of the FLGR seller. Other than that a steel one adds a little muzzle weight, it does nothing else worth while.
Click to expand...

YES!!

LMAO!!
 
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