Is there a reason for saying no?
- Thread starter Hank15
- Start date
KelTec's are NOT supposed to be dry fired.
Most rimfire handguns are NOT to be dry fired.
Any classic handgun that you cannot get parts for now should not be dryfired.
Some old foreign semi auto's known for breaking firing pins should not be dry fired.
If you are checking out a new handgun and the gun shop owner does'nt want you to dry fire the gun,you should'nt,it's not yours.
So,YES,sometimes there is a reason to say NO to dry firing a handgun.
Most rimfire handguns are NOT to be dry fired.
Any classic handgun that you cannot get parts for now should not be dryfired.
Some old foreign semi auto's known for breaking firing pins should not be dry fired.
If you are checking out a new handgun and the gun shop owner does'nt want you to dry fire the gun,you should'nt,it's not yours.
So,YES,sometimes there is a reason to say NO to dry firing a handgun.
Some guns are known for breaking firing pins when dry fired, such as Winchester and Marlin lever actions. Some guns are "known for being ok to dry fire, because the manual says so". Like Ruger SA's.
Ruger transfer bars, from 2 different guns.
My gunsmith said he's replaced several Ruger transfer bars, and the cowboy action shooters say they know of a number of broken transfer bars.
As generally happens when you mention that guns aren't indestructible and perfect, I expect to be called a communist, or that I hate puppies and kittens, and other things for saying it, but the fact is, guns break. Nothing's perfect. If you don't want to keep spare parts around, or mind if your gun breaks (possibly at some embarrasing moment) use snap caps.
Ruger transfer bars, from 2 different guns.
My gunsmith said he's replaced several Ruger transfer bars, and the cowboy action shooters say they know of a number of broken transfer bars.
As generally happens when you mention that guns aren't indestructible and perfect, I expect to be called a communist, or that I hate puppies and kittens, and other things for saying it, but the fact is, guns break. Nothing's perfect. If you don't want to keep spare parts around, or mind if your gun breaks (possibly at some embarrasing moment) use snap caps.
firespectrum
New member
We say "God bless you" when someone sneezes because people used to think that a sneeze meant you were expelling a demon. We still say "God bless you" not because we believe in demons, but because it's become a part of our culture and it is rude not to do so.
Likewise, dry-firing someone else's gun, especially in a gun shop, is still rude even if both parties know it won't damage the gun. I dry fire my own, but if I hand it to a friend and they dry fire it without asking, I still cringe a bit - Not because I think its bad for the gun, just that it's a sign they don't handle firearms enough to be privy to that faux pas. I think it's just something that is part of our gun culture that won't be going away any time soon.
Likewise, dry-firing someone else's gun, especially in a gun shop, is still rude even if both parties know it won't damage the gun. I dry fire my own, but if I hand it to a friend and they dry fire it without asking, I still cringe a bit - Not because I think its bad for the gun, just that it's a sign they don't handle firearms enough to be privy to that faux pas. I think it's just something that is part of our gun culture that won't be going away any time soon.
Southern Rebel
New member
There are TWO myths that continue to be circulated - one that it is NEVER ok to dryfire a pistol and the other that it is ALWAYS ok to dryfire a centerfire pistol. It isn't so much about the quality of the pistol as it is about the mechanical construction of the pistol.
When in doubt, physician, first do no harm. This advice is also good for gunowners. (Gee, you would think that there would be a manual from the manufacturer to advise the owner!
)NEVER NEVER NEVER Dry fire a gun that has a spring driven striker such as an FN Browning 1910 or 1922, Old Model Colt .25, Ortgies, etc. If I have to dry fire any such gun, I put the eraser end of a pencil down the bore and let the tip of the striker hit that.
.22 rimfires are another that shouldn't be dry fired because, generally, the tip of the firing pin will hit on the edge of the chamber and peen it over. (Although some guns have a relieved area to prevent this.)
Slides should not be released and allowed to slam forward into battery on an empty chamber. Eventually, this will cause peening of the breech face (especially on a 1911 type), and also the back end of the barrel. I just had to do a little judicious stoning on the breech face of my son's duty weapon (Colt Series 70 .45) to correct the peening that had occurred after numerous "slams" on an empty chamber.
It's much better to pull the slide back and control its forward movement instead of allowing it to fly forward unchecked on an empty chamber by just releasing the hold open.
As a general rule, regarding dry firing of any gun, it's pretty much assured that two pieces of metal hitting each other constantly are going to work harden and eventually break. Dry firing is good practice for control and familiarity, but be prepared to replace parts.
.22 rimfires are another that shouldn't be dry fired because, generally, the tip of the firing pin will hit on the edge of the chamber and peen it over. (Although some guns have a relieved area to prevent this.)
Slides should not be released and allowed to slam forward into battery on an empty chamber. Eventually, this will cause peening of the breech face (especially on a 1911 type), and also the back end of the barrel. I just had to do a little judicious stoning on the breech face of my son's duty weapon (Colt Series 70 .45) to correct the peening that had occurred after numerous "slams" on an empty chamber.
It's much better to pull the slide back and control its forward movement instead of allowing it to fly forward unchecked on an empty chamber by just releasing the hold open.
As a general rule, regarding dry firing of any gun, it's pretty much assured that two pieces of metal hitting each other constantly are going to work harden and eventually break. Dry firing is good practice for control and familiarity, but be prepared to replace parts.
Microgunner
New member
Of all the hundreds of rimfires I've owned only 1 ever hit the chamber mouth when dry fired. It was a cheap single shot pistol. A Drulov I think. I sold it.
I've probably pulled the trigger on an empty chamber twice to three times as often as I have with a round loaded on any given pistol I own. That's quite a bit of dry firing considering several of my pistols have tens of thousands of rounds through them. No damage as of yet.
Think about it: firearms were designed to be fired. If, after reading the owner's manual you learn that the folks who designed your firearm approve of the practice, snap away. And yes, sometimes they will break.
If it's someone else's firearm, it's their call, not mine. I won't do it in most cases, tho. If you want to trip my trigger, let's go to the range!
If it's someone else's firearm, it's their call, not mine. I won't do it in most cases, tho. If you want to trip my trigger, let's go to the range!
christcorp
New member
The truth is, those that are hell bent on believing that dry firing isn't good for the gun, will absolutely never change their mind. Even if their owner's manual said that it was OK, or even said you HAVE to. Even if the company emailed them and said it was ok. They will maintain the attitude that it's "Better safe than sorry". And there will be those that change their car's oil every 3,000 miles because Jiffy Lube put a sticker in their window. Even though the owner's manual clearly states every 5,000 miles. Again, to them, it's better to be safe than sorry. And they won't debate it with you. They will say: Do whatever you want with your gun, and I'll do what I want with mine. That is definitely an option, and totally acceptable. But it also means that some people don't care about the truth. They only care what they think. Right, Wrong, or indifferent.
The best suggestion is to:
1. See what the owner's manual says. If it says yes, then the answer is yes. If it says no, then the answer is no. If it doesn't say either, then see #2.
2. Email the manufacturer and ask them about that specific firearm. Now I recommend you to be specific in your question. Because of liability, many people, even at the company, might tell you to not do it. Also, manufacturers usually make numerous models. It's quite possible that some can dry fire and some shouldn't. Be specific on asking about your gun.
That is how you can determine what the right answer is. Now, there will be some that email the manufacturer with the HOPES that they'll say no, don't do it. Then they can come to a forum like this and say: "I told you so". However, if the manufacturer says yes, it's perfectly fine; they'll claim the person at the factory doesn't know what they're talking about, and they will still believe and say that dry firing is wrong. So it's a no win situation.
The best suggestion is to:
1. See what the owner's manual says. If it says yes, then the answer is yes. If it says no, then the answer is no. If it doesn't say either, then see #2.
2. Email the manufacturer and ask them about that specific firearm. Now I recommend you to be specific in your question. Because of liability, many people, even at the company, might tell you to not do it. Also, manufacturers usually make numerous models. It's quite possible that some can dry fire and some shouldn't. Be specific on asking about your gun.
That is how you can determine what the right answer is. Now, there will be some that email the manufacturer with the HOPES that they'll say no, don't do it. Then they can come to a forum like this and say: "I told you so". However, if the manufacturer says yes, it's perfectly fine; they'll claim the person at the factory doesn't know what they're talking about, and they will still believe and say that dry firing is wrong. So it's a no win situation.
Keith, Jordan, Askins, Cooper and many other experts have advised against dry firing without some method of cushioning the hammer/firing pin's fall. Snap caps, spent cartridges etc. I agree and have done so for 50 yrs. I've never had a broken firing pin nor have I peened the top of a .22 cylinder or nicked the firing pin in from contact in that region. Do what you want, but it seems to me this is a simple method of taking care of your guns. Rodfac
Microgunner
New member
Except the solid steel firing pin stop built into the firearm.
To learn more about Ruger transfer bars go to Ruger forum.com and read some of the stickies by Iowegan. He understands Rugers very well. He explains how to check yours to see if it's fitted correctly. Basically you cock the hammer, pull the trigger to let it down fully (you can ease it down) and hold the trigger back and slowly ease it forward and watch the hammer to see if it moves forward a little more as the transfer bar slips out from under it. If it does the transfer bar is taking the full impact of the hammer instead of simply transferring the energy to the firing pin and frame. The hammer should stop on the frame with the transfer bar being a perfect fit between it and the frame. There are some cutaway diagrams that make it easier to understand. And yes, sometimes they will come out of the factory a little out of spec.
You're welcome. Iowegan ( a retired gunsmith) on the Ruger forum has some very good information on Ruger revolvers. He is currently publishing some excellent smithing books explaining how to do a proper trigger job on a Ruger. Great bunch of guys over there. There are actually two forums, Ruger forum.com and Ruger forum.net. Check'em out.