Is resizing lube necessary?

I load 38/357, 9mm, 45auto on my Dillon 650 and always put just a little sizing wax on my fingers as I count out the brass
I'm going to dump in the case feeder.
Makes everything run smoother and easier.
I haven't
been cleaning it off afterwards but maybe I should?
Haven't seen any issues.
 
I load 38/357, 9mm, 45auto on my Dillon 650 and always put just a little sizing wax on my fingers as I count out the brass
I'm going to dump in the case feeder.
Makes everything run smoother and easier.
I haven't
been cleaning it off afterwards but maybe I should?
Haven't seen any issues.
Click to expand...
The case should be DRY when the cartridge is loaded and fired. The case expands and grips the chamber wall during firing. If there's lube on the case wall, it isn't really doing the "gripping" that it's supposed to be doing and it's sliding backwards during this ignition process. Over time, or with too much lube, you could end up with a problem. I doubt your press runs any smoother than mine does and I don't lube carbide sized cases. You won't find any loading manual that suggests shooting lubed rounds out of any cartridge. If you feel you have to lube carbide sized rounds you should wipe all the lube off before firing those rounds. This isn't just my preference, it's the proper method to use when reloading. If any of your reloading manuals have a section on how to reload (most do), take the time to read it. You can also query this on line and see what answers you get. Just make sure it's a reputable source of information.
 
Brass gripping the chamber walls generally only happens with loads that peak at pressures above the 30 kpsi range. There is variation due to powder burn rates, but lack of any grip is easy to detect as the cases don't grow to need trimming because there is no stretching at the pressure ring going on. 45 Auto, for example, actually shrinks about half a thousandth during resizing. In the early '90s, I ran a test lot of 500 pieces of Winchester brass through fifty target-level reloadings, and those remaining at the end that had not yet split or been lost at the range (about 300) were all about 0.025" short and my taper crimp die had needed to be reset down a few times to continue to work with them. But the taper is part of why that happens in 45 Auto. It backs up in the chamber and expands to fill the wide end of the taper, and resizing, while moving most of it back into place, leaves a tiny bit of the brass permanently flowed to the rear. Straight revolver cartridges, even up to 357 and 44 Mag pressures, just seem to stay close to the same length for as long as they last.
 
pete2 said:
I've never lubed a case for sizing in a carbide die, I load .38, .357, .44, 9 mm, 45 acp and 45 colt. I have loaded .40 S&W, none with lube. It ain't necessary, it's why we buy carbide dies.............................
Click to expand...
Just in case everyone still does not know, .30 Carbine brass sized in Carbide dies does need to be lubed.
 
That's true for any carbide die that has the full profile of the case and isn't just a ring for straight-sided resizing. I've got carbide .308 and .223 dies, and you better believe they can stick a case if you don't lube them. No-lube is strictly for carbide rings.
 
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