Is cheek weld really that important?
- Thread starter Pops1085
- Start date
shootniron
New member
Most folks prefer ethical shots...they understand their limitations, some don't.
Captains1911, for decades, the Garand was shot most accurate when the shooter's cheek was well hard down on the stock. Best place was right behind the trigger hand's thumb as it wrapped over the pistol grip.
What this did was keep the shooter's head in the same place as the rifle recoiled. Otherwise, the thumb would bounce off the shooter's cheek and he'd end up with a bruise and sore spot.
This was standard procedures if sitting rapid fire as well as prone slow and rapid fire for competition. If one shot a "rattle-battle" match wherein you started in prone on the 600 yard line and would shoot 24 rounds from your M1 in 50 seconds. Good shots would put all of them inside about 12 to15 inches at that range. Keeping your cheek hard on the stock behind your thumb was critical to do this.
What this did was keep the shooter's head in the same place as the rifle recoiled. Otherwise, the thumb would bounce off the shooter's cheek and he'd end up with a bruise and sore spot.
This was standard procedures if sitting rapid fire as well as prone slow and rapid fire for competition. If one shot a "rattle-battle" match wherein you started in prone on the 600 yard line and would shoot 24 rounds from your M1 in 50 seconds. Good shots would put all of them inside about 12 to15 inches at that range. Keeping your cheek hard on the stock behind your thumb was critical to do this.
Absolutely. Assumed as part of alignment of the sights with your eye. Physically, the sights are always aligned. Your head position will determine how your eye lines up with the sights. If you can do this consistently and manipulate the trigger without any movement of the rifle it should it should go the same place (theoretically speaking of course)
I index the tip of my nose off the charging handle for consistency, but that example is more like the charging handle up the nose!
In terms of cheek weld, I was taught that when consistent pressure is applied it is one more thing to stabilize the rifle ........ just like the non-firing hand, firing hand, rifle but in shoulder and the elbows on the ground.
5 points of contact for a solid position (prone).
In terms of cheek weld, I was taught that when consistent pressure is applied it is one more thing to stabilize the rifle ........ just like the non-firing hand, firing hand, rifle but in shoulder and the elbows on the ground.
5 points of contact for a solid position (prone).
Oryx, neat pictures.
The one showing sight alignment has the front sight with a center hold. Competitive shooters usually use a 6-o'clock hold; the gray bullseye is sitting atop that black post. This virtually eliminates elevation problems as the bullseye will appear fuzzy with the proper aiming eye focus on the front sight.
The one showing sight alignment has the front sight with a center hold. Competitive shooters usually use a 6-o'clock hold; the gray bullseye is sitting atop that black post. This virtually eliminates elevation problems as the bullseye will appear fuzzy with the proper aiming eye focus on the front sight.
Stock shape is important to proper eye alignment with any sights, but also important to minimize felt recoil and cheek impact.
Many old double-barrel shotguns used to have way too much drop at heel and comb. The guns would punch the face and climb at the muzzle. Modern shotguns and rifles generally have better stock shape, but some still don't cut it.
Over the years, the rifles/shotguns that had fit me best and control recoil have been Remington 1100s and Rem 700s. Some others are very good too, including Winchester 70s, Tikkas, and my Franchi O/U.
Many old double-barrel shotguns used to have way too much drop at heel and comb. The guns would punch the face and climb at the muzzle. Modern shotguns and rifles generally have better stock shape, but some still don't cut it.
Over the years, the rifles/shotguns that had fit me best and control recoil have been Remington 1100s and Rem 700s. Some others are very good too, including Winchester 70s, Tikkas, and my Franchi O/U.