Is 1000 rounds too early per detail strip 1911

I never "detail strip" my 1911s.

But, boy, when it comes to my car, I detail strip it----engine, drive train, everything, after every 1,000 miles. :cool:
 
The only guns I have EVER detailed stripped (to bare frame) were com-bloc mil-surps that were soaked in cosmoline.

If I think they are THAT bad a good shot of "Gunscrubber" will take care of it. If not, it's time to get rid of it and get another one.
 
Yes I know how to detail strip a 1911
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ok now to your question,it is the conditions under which you shoot your pistol
that determine how often you should take it down for maintenance not so much the number of rounds so seeing as you know how to do it deciding when is entirely up to you.
 
I never "detail strip" my 1911s.
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I'm worse than you because I never "detail strip" any of my guns and I've never had an issue with any of them. That includes 3 shotguns from the 40s and revolvers from the 60s and 70s. My semi-autos. bolt actions and lever actions are from this century.

I don't "detail strip" my cars, motorcycles, lawnmower or anything else that is running reliability. Why is a gun different? A gun is far less complicated and gets far less use than any of them.
 
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I don't "detail strip" my cars, motorcycles, lawnmower or anything else that is running reliability. Why is a gun different? A gun is far less complicated and gets far less use than any of them.
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You detail strip to clean, inspect and maintain a pistol or revolver.

A detail strip of a firearms is far easier than of a car motor. In part, for that reason, it's part of routine maintenance.

A shooter can do this based on when they need to or on a schedule. Competitive shooters usually do it on a routine maintenance basis based on round count.

"Need to" is a floating thing. You drop a gun in the Gulf of Mexico and you ought to detail strip it as soon as you can for cleaning. Salt water promotes rust. Rust weakens metal.

I've bought used revolvers where the grease and old oil had become caked on solid blocks of sludge and rust and feckling had set in. A detail strip allows for cleaning of this and inspection of the areas you can't see. Dirt and dust, over years, collect internally in guns. These become areas where moisture can collect.

1911s were made to be detail stripped using only the parts of the gun itself as the tools. Harder to do that on modern versions. But the gun was built for it. They expected it would get wet and muddy, that condensation would form on the metal, inside and out.

Most of us cannot detail strip cars or lawnmowers, even if we wanted to. Truth is there is no need for that. Regular maintenance can be done on them without that. They are also not made for us to detail strip (we usually send it to the shop for that when a timing belt needs replacement, etc.). Guns are made for detail stripping, service sidearms anyway.

tipoc
 
I detail strip everything after shooting to keep things running smooth. the cleaner it is the better. I love cleaning guns so it is not a big deal to me, but I take 3-10 guns out when I go shooting and then I bring them in and clean everything down to the pins that hold everything together. the more grit you have in your gun, the more wear it will suffer from, although it may be minor. but all that minor wear builds up.

I also clean my carry every time it is shot, and if I don't shoot it for a while, I clean it every month or two regardless.
 
I'm like you TPro. I also rebuild my mowers and vehicles when ever something is needed. I'm a carpenter but also a mechanic/gun Smith. Always have been. Built guns and engines with dad since 5 and I am now 29 and I really enjoy it.
 
the more grit you have in your gun, the more wear it will suffer from, although it may be minor. but all that minor wear builds up.
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While I hear you, it's not really grit. It's usually carbon build up and that doesn't really wear parts out. It's good to clean before it really hardens as it makes it more of a pain to clean, but I've gone a thousand plus rounds on an AR and there wasn't any additional wear from it. Keep in mind too that the hardness of the steel parts in the pistol is greater than that of the carbon buildup. Now if you start burying it in the sand we have a different story.
 
**wanted to ask**

So I've been running my Wilson BP extractor and it has been running great but the beveled edge was touching the case head pushing the round outward although it ran I just got done following strict instructions via interweb and stoned that edge and polished it so now the beveled edge does not touch the case now just the hook grabs perfectly and the case sits closer to the breech face. I cycled 100 live rounds through the pistol by hand in my back yard all cycled perfectly AND the last ROUND WITHOUT THE MAG IN PLACE EJECTS INSTEAD OF GETTING HUNG UP WITH LESS FORCE WHEN PULLING BACK ON SLIDE. Did I do this correctly from the sound of it? I am confident as heck in my work. Just checking with all who are more experienced than I. Thanks in advance.
 
A "detail strip" of a 1911 is like so NEVER needed!

WHY exactly do you think you need to remove all the frame parts?

The FACT IS, one really doesn't need to do much more than a wipedown for 1,000 rounds through the UPPER! The barrel requires nothing but a quite swab, some wiping down and that's IT!

But hey, if taking your gun apart to it's smallest component makes you feel whole, then go for it!
 
Well I use EWL EWG on the sear and hammer hooks and slide rails. So since I shoot so much I am trying to come up with a good schedual on when to re-grease those parts. How about every 2500 rounds, when I replace the recoil spring.
 
I detail strip everything after shooting to keep things running smooth. the cleaner it is the better. I love cleaning guns so it is not a big deal to me, but I take 3-10 guns out when I go shooting and then I bring them in and clean everything down to the pins that hold everything together. the more grit you have in your gun, the more wear it will suffer from, although it may be minor. but all that minor wear builds up.
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In my opinion you cause more wear from taking it apart than a little dust is going to cause.
 
SORRY TO RE-POST THIS.

So I've been running my Wilson BP extractor and it has been running great but the beveled edge was touching the case head pushing the round outward although it ran I just got done following strict instructions via interweb and stoned that edge and polished it so now the beveled edge does not touch the case now just the hook grabs perfectly and the case sits closer to the breech face. I cycled 100 live rounds through the pistol by hand in my back yard all cycled perfectly AND the last ROUND WITHOUT THE MAG IN PLACE EJECTS INSTEAD OF GETTING HUNG UP WITH LESS FORCE WHEN PULLING BACK ON SLIDE. Did I do this correctly from the sound of it? I am confident as heck in my work. Just checking with all who are more experienced than I. Thanks in advance.

Any advice?
 
I think detail stripping is a matter of performance first and preference second. How often do you shoot? If you go to the range and shoot between 50 and 150 rounds, there is no need to detail strip your gun every 1000 rounds. I personally would not let it go without detail stripping every 5000 rounds.

Some of my 1911's get heavy usage. I use them for training and it is not uncommon for me to shoot 5000 to 6000 rounds per month out of each gun. I like to detail strip my guns every third or fourth time I use it so it does work out to be just about 5000 rounds. At this time I usually change the recoil and firing pin springs.
 
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