Inherited Piece...no clue

Sentimental value is important, especially if you are keeping the wife happy about the whole thing.

If you are just a plinker or casual shooter, the conversions are way too expensive to get any real value for what you will spend.

The Remington design allows for a fairly quick reload with spare preloaded cylinders and look cool on the firing line.

If you are going to use the gun in Cowboy Action Shooting matches, a conversion is a godsend (In my humble opinion). But it is expensive.

I bought two Kirst Konverters for my Colt's Dragoons and love them and I claim they are worth every dollars I spent on them. But then, I shoot CAS.

The beauty is I can go back to the BP cylinders and load them up with cap n ball again. I tell the wife for the price of 5 guns I now have 4... ;)
 
Well guys took it into the gun shop I go to all the time (gonna be working their part time here soon even). My buddy there tore it apart and we started looking at what we needed to replace or simply get because it was missing. The gun itself was freaking sludged up bad everywhere save the barrel...you could tell my wife's Grandpa never cleaned anything except the barrel...the barrel was ridiculously nice!!

So I'm currently finding the best place online to buy all the stuff I need for it which is as follows:

-Hand and Spring
-Cylinder Stop
-Trigger and Stop Spring
-Nipples

Couple Questions for you guys though...we assumed the following link are the nipples I need correct? http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?products_id=4748

Also the barrel turns a little easier than I thought it should...does that mean it needs tightened further? Does it have a hard ending or no?
 
When I have gone to parts distributers...

...Including DGW, VTI and some other smaller outfits, it is fifty - fifty that the parts will work straight from the pack on older pistols. And this is even when the vendor tells me the part is a direct replacement.

The two I mentioned plus Numrich, and for ASP originated revolvers, Virginia Sutler in Winchester VA might be a good place to start.

Deer Creek in Waldron, Indiana has some parts for Non-Pietta/Uberti revolvers but the original parts are all but worked out of the system (I think).

So people who are selling you parts for an ASP or ASM (IMO) are actually just selling you parts that were made by someone else and they are the closest fit to the OEM.

Since you need several parts, I echo the previous recommendation to go to Cabela's and buy their parts kit for an 1858 Remington clone. If you find that the parts won't all fit, you can sell the stuff you don't need on eBay and you will get your money back plus.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/740233.uts?WT.tsrc=CRR&WT.mc_id=crrdtfd

It is on sale now for 29.99 plus forty dollars shipping.

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I am kidding about the shipping. ;o)
 
Well guys took it into the gun shop I go to all the time (gonna be working their part time here soon even). My buddy there tore it apart and we started looking at what we needed to replace or simply get because it was missing. The gun itself was freaking sludged up bad everywhere save the barrel...you could tell my wife's Grandpa never cleaned anything except the barrel...the barrel was ridiculously nice!!

So I'm currently finding the best place online to buy all the stuff I need for it which is as follows:

-Hand and Spring
-Cylinder Stop
-Trigger and Stop Spring
-Nipples

Couple Questions for you guys though...we assumed the following link are the nipples I need correct? http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product...oducts_id=4748

Also the barrel turns a little easier than I thought it should...does that mean it needs tightened further? Does it have a hard ending or no?

That would scare me. I'd put it back together with the parts that came with it and put it on the wall. Go ahead and spend the $200 bucks or so for a safe gun.
 
Noz...It's gonna be looked at very carefully and it seems fine, but if we can't figure it out (buddy has a BP Remmy as well we're gonna compare it to) I am going to order another octoganal barrel which is very easy to do. I don't want to be able to shoot this thing all the time, but would love to have it capable and shoot it some.
 
Loose barrel....

If the barrel is turned into the frame all the way and is still loose, it is unlikely that turning it an additional full rotation is possible.

This means that in order to tighten the barrel and get it snug, you would be turning it past the point where the sight lines up. But if you try to go all the way around, the threads on the barrel or frame will strip.

I would say that the barrel being loose in and of itself is not necessarily a reason to declare that the revolver is unshootable. As long as it is not too loose.

I have had loose barrels on Brass frame Remingtons but never on steel ones.

Before buying a new barrel I would inspect the existing barrel and frame and try to determine why it is loose. If you note damage on the threads of the frame or the barrel, try to decide how extensive it is. It may be that a new barrel won't fix the pistol.

Other guys on the forum have better experience with the formulations that are available to hold threaded fasteners in place. I am thinking "loctite" or some such concoction. I would have two concerns:

1. Will the loctite hold the barrel in place under the stress of shooting it?
2. Might loctite prevent you from ever getting the barrel out of the frame if you decided to do so in the future?

I agree that photos might be helpful here.
 
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