Info on this 6.5mm Swedish rifle

Keepin_Jeepin

New member
Hi,

another gun from grandpas collection. I dont know anything about it or if its safe to shoot.... Anything would be appreciated, thanks

IMG_2709.jpg


IMG_2708.jpg


IMG_2710.jpg


IMG_2711.jpg


IMG_2712.jpg


IMG_2713.jpg





Thanks!
 
well I don;t know a lot about them as I am still learning but I can tell you that the bolt and bolt release are not original to the rifle. every single piece on swedes have a serial number that matches the last 3 of the rifle serial number. the bolt is all taken from another rifle and the bolt release came from somewhere else. it looks like it's in decent enough condition and the swedish mausers were not prone to the same failures as early springfields but something looks off to me.

someone will come along with a lot more knowledge than I though so good luck with the search.
 
Karbin m/94

I believe it was never standard infantery issue, more like certain personel and in the navy and so on.

maybe not shot the hottest commercial loads or handloads?

But I think and somebody should correct me if I am wrong, you don't have many factory original 6.5x55 rifles on the market in the US and the ammo availble is kinda made for the surplus swedish mausers? just like factory 45-70 or something is loaded weak so you don't load your wild west winchester with modern ammo and blow it up
 
Assembled by Interarms and given the completely bogus designation "G33/50" to get around import quantity restrictions.
Generally considered to be parts guns---hence the non-matching numbers.
Where it says "INTERARMCO G33/50", there used to be a date.
-----krinko

"But I think and somebody should correct me if I am wrong, you don't have many factory original 6.5x55 rifles on the market in the US...'

Husqvarna,
You mean aside from the thousands of Swedish Mausers?
In addition to four Carl Gustafs, I also have a Norwegian Krag and a Danish Schulz & Larsen barreled 98k club rifle in 6.5x55.
I have not noticed anything like the "stepped" power rating of .45-70 as far as the 6.5x55 ammunition made in the US, or the foreign made brands that are available here.
-----krinko
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all the info...... is this really a circa 1907 gun as that link suggests? What is considered hot and not for this weapon? If it is really a hundred years old I probably will not be shooting it anyways. Thanks so far!
 
Keep Jeepin
Buy some 6.5 swede ammo and shoot it. A sweet shooter, those little carbines, in that caliber. Handy. Good for deer, elk or even moose if you need to shoot Bullwinkle. Effective round.

I shoot my 1900 Obie Swede M96 and have no issues other than old eyes and open sights trying to shoot a very accurate rifle that is 112 years old and going strong.

That is a very nice little rifle you have sir. Deserves to be shot... or not. Your call of course. But don't worry about putting ammo thru it. The weak link in the 6.5x55 family will be the Norge Krags, hardly ever find a Swede with factory ammo power issues (I did have some old PMC ammo that got kinda sticky and a primer or two bulged... did not shoot the rest of the box, bt that was back in the late 80s) Stick with Privi, or any other brand of ammo, should be good to go.

Reloading can bring about happiness (do a search using WildAlaska and 6.5x55, you'll find some good info)
 
Thanks for all the info...... is this really a circa 1907 gun as that link suggests? What is considered hot and not for this weapon? If it is really a hundred years old I probably will not be shooting it anyways. Thanks so far!
for what it's worth, some people still hunt with civil war era muzzle loaders, not exactly how I would treat a 150 year old war relic but assuming that they have been properly stored and maintained most military firearms can last a VERY long time in operating condition.
 
The Swede M96 is a very STRONG action. What is lacks is the gas handling safety features of the M98 action.

I'm sure my Swedes will be shooting long after I'm buried.

Jimro
 
If it is really a hundred years old I probably will not be shooting it anyways.

As long as it's not damaged, it can take it. I have an M96 with a 1901 receiver and a CG63 with a 1903 receiver and shoot them at least once a month.
Swedish steel is tough, it'll stand up to regular use. Not to say you should get stupid with it and handload beyond normal 6.5x55 pressures, but good handloads or factory loads are good to go.
If you've never shot the 6.5x55...you're in for a real treat!:D
 
I shoot my 1917 Carl Gustafs 96 long rifle all the time. There is just something about the 6.5X55 cartridge and the Swedish rifle that makes for a very sweet shooting combination.

Mine is insanely accurate for a military rifle.

IMG_1544-XL.jpg
 
"There is just something about the 6.5X55 cartridge and the Swedish rifle that makes for a very sweet shooting combination."

Absolutely.

403332793.jpg


399636042.jpg


-----krinko
 
What you are reading is people’s satisfaction with their Swedish rifles but don’t get carried away with the enthusiasm. Your rifle should be perfectly safe with Swedish service ammunition, it should be perfectly safe with ammunition loaded to Swedish service rifle pressures but Swedish service rifle ammunition is not that hot. I don’t know if anyone is selling a +P 6.5 X55, but just in case, don’t let fans convictions about “Swedish Steel”, its supposed strength and durability fool you into sticking hot loads into your rifle. It was not designed for it and its pre WW1 metallurgy may not support it. People just do not understand how primitive process controls and metallurgy were back than and these old plain carbon steel receivers will break with the sort of abuse that would only damage a modern receiver.

I am certain that the owner of this receiver took too literally claims of “Swedish Steel” being superior and hot rodded his rifle.

BlownUpsmallringmauser2.jpg


These are velocities of Swedish service rifle ammunition from a couple of my rifles. These loads are absolutely fine as is.

M1896 Infantry Rifle 29' barrel Carl Gustafs mfgr 1903

17-Aug-06 T = 85 °F
143 gr FMJ 1986 Swedish Ball

Ave Vel = 2610
Std Dev = 14.38
ES = 45.59
High = 2633
Low = 2587
N = 8

ReducedM96SwedeCarlGustafsfulllengt.jpg


M38 Infantry Carbine 24" barrel
28-Oct-94 T ≈ 60 °F

143 gr 1986 Swedish Ball OAL 3.065" 47.4 grs powder average

Ave Vel = 2427
Std Dev = 22
ES = 62
Low = 2395
High = 2457
N = 10
 
Buy a box of any of the large ammo mfg. in the 120gr.-140gr. variety.

Remington, Federal, Hornady, Prvi Partizan etc. will work.
 
6.5x55 Swede = Performance

The Swede's run just fine in the parameters (pressures) they were designed for.
And probably the most accurate of milsurps in general, cept maybe the Persians.
If one wants a 6.5 Hot Rod, go with a Grendel, Creedmore or 6.5 Mag and let the Swede do what it always does, "Perform" at lower pressures.
I like them old mauser rounds (7x57, 7.65x53, 8x57, etc...) that get it done without a lot of muzzle blast or recoil. They take game just fine when you respect their limitations and use accordingly.
 
Get the headspace checked, use commercial 6.5x55mm ammo (or surplus if you can find it - good luck), and enjoy!

yes, the old gun's metalurgy isn't up to modern standards...yes, the swede round is a 40Kpsi pressure class, and yes, its not as fast as higher pressure (and more modern) rounds.

Swede rifles were considered primo for their era, because Swedish steel was the "best", in those days. Its a 95 Mauser action, which lacks the "safety lug" found on the 98 Mauser (which only does anything when something goes badly wrong, anyway), and lacks the flange on the bolt shroud to help deflect gas (again, only when something goes badly wrong), and its cock on closing, which is something some people don't mind.

Something to be aware of, most (if not all) the Swedes were set up for the 160gr military ammo, and will shoot high with other loads. And they were zeroed for 300 meters, if I remember right.

Replacement front sights of different heights are available, and I would recommend checking into getting one if you plan to shoot a 140gr (or other weight) bullet.

The 6.5x55mm has a long history, and an excellent reputation, because they work well, are accurate, and have low recoil (compared to most other military rounds of the era). The Swede's long bullets hold velocity very well, and actually shoot flatter than many .30-06 loadings.

DO NOT try to hot rod that rifle! If you want more than it is designed to give, get something else. But what it is designed to give is plenty for almost anything, and it will still give it, as good as it did when it was new (assuming it's in good mechanical shape).

If you can shoot open sights, you've got an excellent woods gun for deer, just the way it is, and quite capable of 300yd shots, if you are!

I have one of the long rifles (1917 mfg) and can easily tag the 400yd gong at the range, without even raising the sights! (140gr speer bullet and mid-level charge of IMR 4320).
 
Go to the GUNBOARDS.COM web site. They have a forum that deals with Swedish Mausers. The moderators of that forum are unbelievably knowledgeable about Swedes. I wouldn't be completely surprised if they knew the name of the children of the man who forged the reciever of your rifle. Check out the site you'll be thoroughly informed.
 
Back
Top