Improving the trigger on Sig 1911... I need help

I wouldn't follow the instructions in that video.
The weak link in ambi safeties is the tongue/groove joint connecting the halves, and wiggling one side - torqueing it back and forth - is putting more wear on the joint than necessary.
When I'm separating the halves, I try to get a thin knife blade between the frame and the safety, as close to the pivot point as possible, and pry it straight out, so you're not applying any twisting or bending force on the pin.
A piece of newsprint protects the finish.
 
WVsig... the safety feels normal when flicking it on and off.

tangolima... I'll admit, I didn't think too far ahead when I skipped removing the safety and whent straight to removing the mainspring, it's housing, and the leaf spring/sear spring. But it did work, and I got to see first hand where everything fits. I've tripple checked the gun and it's functioning correctly.

tangolima, g. willies, RickB.... I was primarily working on getting the safety out with it between the safe and fire positions, I was working on the left side (non ejection side), I gave it everything I had, even used a small flat blade to pry a little until I decided I was going to end up gouging something if I were to keep going.

Using some magazine or news paper with a thin knife blade might be the ticket.

I'd really like to take it all down just for the sake of doing so, but at this point I might wait till I've shot another 500 rounds from it so my excuse can be to do a full disassembly and cleaning. Maybe then I'll be able to get the safety free and I can tweak the spring a bit more and see about smoothing some things out while leaving the sear and hammer alone. If for some reason I just can't get the safety off, I'll just leave it alone and wont mess around by skipping steps.

I'll probably buy some stones eventually though. There are countless occasions that I wish I had some nice polishing stones to smooth out internal surfaces on various firearms.

I'd like you all to know, I am enjoying myself and I appreciate all the advice! It reminds me of when I finally fully disassembled a Glock and got to see how it all works. The 1911 is a very cool design! I'm not sure if I'll ever mess around with the internals of a revolver! Well I take that back... I've taken apart a couple Rugers and they were pretty simple, but i didn't mess with them too much. Thank God for the internet... I don't think my library would have the info I'm looking for and I'd be stuck buying books to tell me how to fully disassembled each gun I own. I guess that wouldn't be so bad actually.:)
 
OK, I didn't read all the replies so if someone already said this I apologise..

the 1911 trigger is a finicky b!tch, and doing it wrong can be super unsafe or if you aren't too unlucky it will just be expensive...

I had 2 scorpions {bought twins when they first came out}, after a while I sent one to my smith with some parts I bought for it, a black trigger, hammer, and ambi safety.. He did a trigger job, some polishing, installed my parts, and flush cut and crowned the barrel, cost me $250 parts and labor total.. I sld that gun after shooting it about 800 times for $1300 {that was more than it cost me}!!!

Sometimes its not worth playing with them your self, if you want a gun to play with internally buy a used carry gun and go to town. That is how I learned how 1911's worked, I bought a used springfield carry/range gun {5000 rnds through it} for $250, all scratched to death.. I fit a kart barrel, a bunch of wilson parts, and then after shooting it for a while I sent it for cerakote, sold that gun for more than it cost me too, lol, but if I am being honest, my trigger job was not as nice as the one my smith did on any of my 1911's...
 
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