Improving accuracy Ruger #1?

"I bought a #1 Standard in 30-06 used. According to Ruger's website it was made in 1976, so I'm not sure if it has the older adjustable trigger or not.

Earlier this week I took it to the range and the groups were all over the place. I used Winchester Super X Power Point 180 grain ammo.

When I got the gun it only had the iron sights. No scope or rings. I bought some new rings and a new Leupold 3.5-10 Vari X III.

Based on my internet research I've seen that Ruger considers a 3" group at 100 yards to be sufficient.

Earlier this week I would have been thankful for a 3" group at 100 yards.

What's the twist rate for the barrel and what kind of ammo does it like? I haven't started reloading for it yet. I thought I'd run the gamut of factory ammo first."

1."Earlier this week I took it to the range and the groups were all over the place. I used Winchester Super X Power Point 180 grain ammo."

Ruger #1's are fussy on how they are shot from the bench. The forearm must be placed exactly the same way for each shot. One way that has worked is have the front bag or rest right in front of the trigger guard. Feels awkward at first but you get used to it.

2."Based on my internet research I've seen that Ruger considers a 3" group at 100 yards to be sufficient."

I've seen stuff said that Ruger considered 2" at 50 yards, or 2" at 100 yard but I've not seen 3" at 100 yards. Must have missed that one.

3.""I bought a #1 Standard in 30-06 used. According to Ruger's website it was made in 1976, so I'm not sure if it has the older adjustable trigger or not."

You mentioned it had iron sights. That could only be a #1A (22"barrel) or a #1S (Some 24", some 26" depending on caliber ) The #1A is more common.

4."What's the twist rate for the barrel and what kind of ammo does it like? I haven't started reloading for it yet. I thought I'd run the gamut of factory ammo first."

1 in 10" for the twist. Good idea on the factory ammo.

I've hunted with and tinkered with the Ruger Number one since about 1970, currently have 19 in my modest collection that range in caliber from .22 Hornet to .416 Rigby. Some are extremely accurate and a few are, well let's just say they're stubborn. Let's also just say you have to like the challenge of hunting with a single loader. ;) Frankly, to be honest I haven't used any of my #1's since 2009 when I took my first outfitted hunt for antelope. In 2010 I hunted elk with the same outfitter. These are private land hunts and ranch and outfitter rules state "no single shot rifles". Their ground, their rules.

I'm thinking you may get better result from handloading the ammo to fit the gun. Mid 70's era odds are have a Wilson barrel and many had long throats which would favor the heavier bullets.

Dang, just too many things you might try and I don't remember them all. One thing I do recommend, especially if you hunt in wet weather. Seal every bit of the inside of that stock. Seal under the butt plate too. Ruger does not seal the inside wood on their rifles. Why? I have no idea. That's not only on the #1's but the M77's as well. Check the rib where it abuts the receiver. There should be clearance and usually there is none. The barrel heats up and the pressure from the rib exerts against the receiver thus changing the barrel harmonics.

One thing about a Ruger #1, regardless of model. You'll either love it or hate it. No in between.
Paul B.
 
I have also read about a product called the Hicks Accurizer for the Mdl. 1 Ruger. As I have already mentioned, I have recently acquired a Ruger No.1 in .280. I have made reloads and plan to take it out Tuesday. I'm going to try simple things, but I might look into that Hicks Accurizer. Anyone here familiar with it?
 
"Oh No! I just purchased an older Ruger No 1 in .280 Remington. It has the red butt pad and it has .280 Remington or 7mm Express on the barrel. I know it is one of the older ones. I just finished reloading for it. Plan on taking it out Tuesday. After reading these I'm not feeling too good right now."

What weight bullet? If 150 gr. or lighter, try something like the 160 gr. Speer Hot Core. That will usually bring about a reasonably usable load. I have 19 Ruger #1's in various configurations so I have some ideas as to what makes them work.
Paul B.
Hey thank you. I will try it next batch. These are 140s and 150s I believe.
 
I have had 3 no. 1s in 3006, one 300mg, two 45/70s and a 257Roberts. All these rifles shot 1"-11/2" at 100yds except the 257R made 1976. This rifle shot
all over the place and there was nothing to be done with it. I have had several
m77s, one 1st year production in 270 that is one of most accurate out of box
rifles I ever bought. 77/22 1st year production is a tack driver and the early
10/22s were also fine rifles. I don't buy Ruger anymore they have slid on QC
but I don't any other US made new guns either. A rifle that won't do 3" is a
joke, a rifle that won't do better than 3" is junk. In a single shot it would be
hard to explain that poor proformance other than barrel. I have a 1st year #3
223 that shots 1" with Sierra 52gr match and a 375win that I'm still playing
with that is doing under 2" with Speer 235gr semi-spitzer. When I have a rifle
that is junk I don't care who made it, if it don't shoot it scoots. I'm not one to
buy an off the rack new rifle and spend the price of another rifle to get it to
shoot.
 
suspect but..........

As so well noted in all the earlier posts, the Wilson barrel is suspect, but I would not condemn the rifle 'till I tried some different ammo, both in bullet weight and manufacturer. Reading closer, I see that's been suggested.

Too, if a fella REALLY wanted a good No1, the early rifles, with the Douglas barrels , and low production numbers, were very carefully worked up and could be considered semi custom. Quality and attn to details was very high. I would hold out for an early one if I could.
 
I've got couple #1 and I replaced trigger with Kepplinger single set trigger and Canjar made one also. I've had forends worked on and oldest one made 1977 other 2 made 1991/1994.
 
I had a .308 that worked well once I bedded the forearm to the action/hanger and free floated the barrel. I also shimmed the hanger with a wedge from a 12g shotgun wad. Then found it liked lighter bullets, 125g IIRC. It made for a very light kicking rifle. Would put 3 holes touching if I let the barrel cool between shots. It was definitely a rifle built to shoot once and stop for a while.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 
"Oh No! I just purchased an older Ruger No 1 in .280 Remington. It has the red butt pad and it has .280 Remington or 7mm Express on the barrel. I know it is one of the older ones. I just finished reloading for it. Plan on taking it out Tuesday. After reading these I'm not feeling too good right now."

What weight bullet? If 150 gr. or lighter, try something like the 160 gr. Speer Hot Core. That will usually bring about a reasonably usable load. I have 19 Ruger #1's in various configurations so I have some ideas as to what makes them work.
Paul B.
Well got back from the range today. First day taking out a newly acquired Ruger #1 in .280. The winning bullet for the tightest group was a Nosler 150 grain ballistic tip loaded with RL22. 3 shot 3/4 inch groups easily. I'm very pleased!!!!
 
I would not condemn the rifle 'till I tried some different ammo

OP here. I got back from the range today to give the old girl one last chance before I made her hit the street.

With Winchester Super X 180 grain, the groups were MOA.

With Federal Power Shok 150 grain, very poor group and way off target.

I guess I'll keep the rifle and feed it the Winchester Super X 180 grain?
 
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