I'm tired of having primers go off in my face
- Thread starter jflies
- Start date
Something is wrong. I've used the Lee whack a mole loaders for decades without ever having a single primer fire on me.
A few suggestions:
Are you reloading MilSurp brass & if so are the old primers crimped? If so you need to remove the crimp so the new primer slides into the primer pocket without getting jammed.
What kind of hammer? (I use a rubber mallet if that helps).
Have you set the primer depth correctly? (the half of the die unscrews to set this).
A few suggestions:
Are you reloading MilSurp brass & if so are the old primers crimped? If so you need to remove the crimp so the new primer slides into the primer pocket without getting jammed.
What kind of hammer? (I use a rubber mallet if that helps).
Have you set the primer depth correctly? (the half of the die unscrews to set this).
Wow thanks for all of the replies, guys.
My procedure is as follows:
1. Use rubber mallet to push case into sizing die
2. Put primer open end up in the primer seater
3. Flip over the sizing die/case combo and align on top of the primer tool
4. Insert the priming rod knurled end up, and use the mallet to push the case onto the primer
I'm going to try to take a very short video tonight to show you the procedure. As I said before, I don't think I'm doing it wrong... but who knows...
A few observations:
1. Some of the cases have some flashing sticking out of the flash hole. I don't know if someone before me buggered up the case or if they come like that, but perhaps the priming rod is forcing those flashing bits into the primer and causing the discharge.
2. It sometimes requires more than a light tap to seat the primer because some of the cases have buggered up primer pockets or remnants of a crimp. I probably need to tool to clean the primer pockets so that I don't have to really hammer it hard.
Needless to say, it's time for a press, but I am broke so it's gonna have to wait for a bit.
My procedure is as follows:
1. Use rubber mallet to push case into sizing die
2. Put primer open end up in the primer seater
3. Flip over the sizing die/case combo and align on top of the primer tool
4. Insert the priming rod knurled end up, and use the mallet to push the case onto the primer
I'm going to try to take a very short video tonight to show you the procedure. As I said before, I don't think I'm doing it wrong... but who knows...
A few observations:
1. Some of the cases have some flashing sticking out of the flash hole. I don't know if someone before me buggered up the case or if they come like that, but perhaps the priming rod is forcing those flashing bits into the primer and causing the discharge.
2. It sometimes requires more than a light tap to seat the primer because some of the cases have buggered up primer pockets or remnants of a crimp. I probably need to tool to clean the primer pockets so that I don't have to really hammer it hard.
Needless to say, it's time for a press, but I am broke so it's gonna have to wait for a bit.
Yup, and I had another thought: glocked cases shouldn't be used with this kit.
The bulged cases require some pretty heavy whacks to get them into the sizing die. When they are seated that snugly, getting them out also takes a very stout whack. Since this kit requires the case to disengage from the sizer to be primed, it means that I have to hit it hard to get the primer in. This percussive seating onto the primer might be enough to set some of them off. I just noticed that most of the cases that went BANG are glocked.
The bulged cases require some pretty heavy whacks to get them into the sizing die. When they are seated that snugly, getting them out also takes a very stout whack. Since this kit requires the case to disengage from the sizer to be primed, it means that I have to hit it hard to get the primer in. This percussive seating onto the primer might be enough to set some of them off. I just noticed that most of the cases that went BANG are glocked.
Is it possible that primer manufacturer's are making primers more sensitive? I have read any number of posts from shooters complaining that their thunderstick won't ignite their reloads. Said firearms go from pistols to rifles. Military rifles tend to have more robust ignition systems, but given time, even their mainsprings weaken. Modern manufacturers seem to have removed their inhouse expertize by downsizing, so the people left on staff are both cheap and incompetent.
Mark Humphreville , also known as Hummer70 and Humpy, wrote this excellent article documenting the loss of expertize in the commercial market.
IT DON’T GO BANG: FIRES, HANGFIRES, MISFIRES AND SHORT ORDER COOKS IN JERSEY By Mark Humphreville
http://gunhub.com/ammunition/42928-don-t-go-bang-fires-hangfires-misfires-short-order.html
Well of course, shooters don't blame the firearms, or the weak, inadequate ignition systems in the things, they blame the ammunition!. I remember lots of complaints about Russian primers being too insensitive to ignite. The Russians created designs, like the Tokarev pistol which has a heavy, free floating firing pin that rebounds off the primer. Unlike American pistols, there is no firing pin spring nor firing pin block. The Russians controlled slamfires through primer insensitivity. When these insensitive primers hit the market, and Americans with their antique mainsprings and weak ignition firearms could not make Russian primers go bang, I read a lot of complaints on line, calling Russian primers junk. Recently with the push to create cheaper to make striker fired pistols, I have read any number of complaints about these striker fired pistols not igniting ammunition, with the direct message that it was the ammunition's fault and had nothing to do with gun design.
Maybe the Russians heard the messages and decided if Americans want super sensitive primers, they will get super sensitive primers. I know Winchester redesigned their primer line to make their primers more sensitive. Prior to 2000, Winchester primers were nickel coated. I called and asked why they had removed the coating and was told the whole product line had been redesigned to make their primers more sensitive.
I think the whole thing is a race to the bottom. Be prepared for the day when a sneeze ignites all the primers in the loading tray!
Mark Humphreville , also known as Hummer70 and Humpy, wrote this excellent article documenting the loss of expertize in the commercial market.
IT DON’T GO BANG: FIRES, HANGFIRES, MISFIRES AND SHORT ORDER COOKS IN JERSEY By Mark Humphreville
http://gunhub.com/ammunition/42928-don-t-go-bang-fires-hangfires-misfires-short-order.html
Well of course, shooters don't blame the firearms, or the weak, inadequate ignition systems in the things, they blame the ammunition!. I remember lots of complaints about Russian primers being too insensitive to ignite. The Russians created designs, like the Tokarev pistol which has a heavy, free floating firing pin that rebounds off the primer. Unlike American pistols, there is no firing pin spring nor firing pin block. The Russians controlled slamfires through primer insensitivity. When these insensitive primers hit the market, and Americans with their antique mainsprings and weak ignition firearms could not make Russian primers go bang, I read a lot of complaints on line, calling Russian primers junk. Recently with the push to create cheaper to make striker fired pistols, I have read any number of complaints about these striker fired pistols not igniting ammunition, with the direct message that it was the ammunition's fault and had nothing to do with gun design.
Maybe the Russians heard the messages and decided if Americans want super sensitive primers, they will get super sensitive primers. I know Winchester redesigned their primer line to make their primers more sensitive. Prior to 2000, Winchester primers were nickel coated. I called and asked why they had removed the coating and was told the whole product line had been redesigned to make their primers more sensitive.
I think the whole thing is a race to the bottom. Be prepared for the day when a sneeze ignites all the primers in the loading tray!
Probably cases with primer crimps, that have not been removed. When a new primer is seated, the pocket is too tight and the primer is partially crushed. Some go off, some do not.
The solution is to spend $11 on a primer pocket uniformer/ crimp cutter tool....and make sure all of the pockets are correct and de-crimped. You only have to do this once for each case.
The solution is to spend $11 on a primer pocket uniformer/ crimp cutter tool....and make sure all of the pockets are correct and de-crimped. You only have to do this once for each case.
Jim Watson
New member
I doubt the Russians have softened their primers.
I know I got 0.1% misfires in 9mms with hammers and Wolf brand primers during Panic I.
I blame crimps remaining in range pickup military brass for the OP's "kaPOPs".
You can cut out the crimp with a knife, a deburring tool, or a countersink.
You can also seat primers with more control and less worry with a hand tool.
An old style round tray Lee will work if you can find one. The current crop gets spotty reviews.
I know I got 0.1% misfires in 9mms with hammers and Wolf brand primers during Panic I.
I blame crimps remaining in range pickup military brass for the OP's "kaPOPs".
You can cut out the crimp with a knife, a deburring tool, or a countersink.
You can also seat primers with more control and less worry with a hand tool.
An old style round tray Lee will work if you can find one. The current crop gets spotty reviews.
Last edited:
I stocked up on Tula primers a while back when they were cheap. On my Dillon 650 I've found that they don't seat anywhere near as smoothly as the Winchester's and CCI's that I had been using. They seem much harder and "grittier" feeling as they are being seated.
I would imagine that you would have a less exciting reloading experience if you change to a different brand of primers.
I would imagine that you would have a less exciting reloading experience if you change to a different brand of primers.
Nuttin' wrong with Lee Loaders! I started with one in 1969 and still have 4. One of my kits will pop primers (.44 Mag.) but the other 3 don't (I've had to change my panties a few times when a Magnum primer goes off! 
). Check the priming cup/assy. Make sure the primers aren't too sloppy in the cup and that the spring loaded washer moves easily. Also, lightly tap the primer rod then remove the case, in the body die, and check to make sure the primer is entering the pocket straight. Easiest remedy is a hand priming tool, but I've used an arbor press (1 ton model, not a "reloading arbor press") to load mebbe 5,000 .38 Specials...
). Check the priming cup/assy. Make sure the primers aren't too sloppy in the cup and that the spring loaded washer moves easily. Also, lightly tap the primer rod then remove the case, in the body die, and check to make sure the primer is entering the pocket straight. Easiest remedy is a hand priming tool, but I've used an arbor press (1 ton model, not a "reloading arbor press") to load mebbe 5,000 .38 Specials...You just identified your problem right there. Anything more than a light tap is excessive.
You can buy a primer pocket reamer tool for a couple of bucks with large & small bits. Go for it its better than "a blowin yer face off"!
http://www.brownells.com/reloading/...87_a_7c7313_a_7c749013134_d_749013134_d_20597
I think the problem may be a combination of two things. One is what 45 Auto mentioned. The TulAmmo and Wolf primers tend to have burrs on their cup lips and are harder to seat than most. CCI primers were like that before they revamped their process in the early 1990's. I have old ones in the small boxes that are still hard to seat.
The other issue is that a lot of 9 mm cases commonly around are military or military style and had their original primers crimped. If you haven't removed these crimps, that could cause any brand of primer to go off using a Lee loader.
So, follow the suggestion to get a primer pocket reamer. At the very least, chuck a wood countersink cutter in a drill and clean up the mouth of the primer pocket with it. If they don't seat easier after that, get a Q-tip and some powdered graphite and alcohol. Mix the graphite with the alcohol and dip the Q-tip in and lightly coat the inside of each primer pocket with it and let it dry. See if that helps reduce the seating force required.
I have a friend who loaded shotgun shells with a Lee Loader many years ago. He kept setting primers off, too, but I never figured out how he did it. I used one of the old Lee Manufacturing Zero Error Target Model Lee loaders for 222 Remington for years without every having this happen.
The other issue is that a lot of 9 mm cases commonly around are military or military style and had their original primers crimped. If you haven't removed these crimps, that could cause any brand of primer to go off using a Lee loader.
So, follow the suggestion to get a primer pocket reamer. At the very least, chuck a wood countersink cutter in a drill and clean up the mouth of the primer pocket with it. If they don't seat easier after that, get a Q-tip and some powdered graphite and alcohol. Mix the graphite with the alcohol and dip the Q-tip in and lightly coat the inside of each primer pocket with it and let it dry. See if that helps reduce the seating force required.
I have a friend who loaded shotgun shells with a Lee Loader many years ago. He kept setting primers off, too, but I never figured out how he did it. I used one of the old Lee Manufacturing Zero Error Target Model Lee loaders for 222 Remington for years without every having this happen.
berettaprofessor
New member
Good gravy. Spend $15 of that money you are saving reloading and buy a lee hand-primer to do the priming.
I must be a very lucky man. I have, in the past, seated primers a full 90 degrees off from what would be normal seatings. Completely crushed the primer sideways into the primer pocket. Not once have I set off a primer in my reloading press.
I've also seated primers upside down. Pressed them out with the decapping pin, very slowly and very gently. No unwanted bangs.
But now that I write this, it will probably happen.....
I've also seated primers upside down. Pressed them out with the decapping pin, very slowly and very gently. No unwanted bangs.
But now that I write this, it will probably happen.....
Yes, there is nothing more gratifying than gently and smoothly seating a primer by hand. I think you also mentioned roughness in the pockets and flashing around the flash hole. This would be considered a major problem with safety implications. I uniform my flash holes with a special tool, but I don't do volume reloading, so that might not interest you. Maybe you should get some better brass.
BTW, can't resist, I read something at least 25 years ago, maybe in Gun Report magazine, maybe somewhere else, - Khrushchev the Russian guy gave President Eisenhower a 12 ga double barrel shotgun one time, but it pierced the primers. Some people thought it was a plot to kill Ike. Winchester checked it out and decided the firing pin fall was set for Russian primers, which were much tougher. They straightened it out and everyone was happy.
BTW, can't resist, I read something at least 25 years ago, maybe in Gun Report magazine, maybe somewhere else, - Khrushchev the Russian guy gave President Eisenhower a 12 ga double barrel shotgun one time, but it pierced the primers. Some people thought it was a plot to kill Ike. Winchester checked it out and decided the firing pin fall was set for Russian primers, which were much tougher. They straightened it out and everyone was happy.
Hmmm. Uncle Nick is on to something. I remember chamfering the primer pockets of a lot of my .44 Magnum brass. I don't believe I had many surprises after that (nope they prolly didn't "need" to be chamfered as a mil. spec. case might, but with my background as a life long machinist/mechanic, I thought stuffing a press fit brass cup into a hole would be smoother with a slight chamfer). 
I learned a long time ago that you can't roller skate on a buffalo t*rd. You gotta move the t*rd first.
You will find a lot of 9mm brass that has crimped primers. You gotta remove the crimp with either a chamfer tool, a counter sink, or a tool for uniforming the pocket. If load a lot, the latter is the only way to go.
I never loaded a 9 with the hammer Lee, but I did lots of 380 ACP back in the old days. I never set off a primer during that time period of my handloading career.
Do it right and then have some fun.