Very nice setup! Unfortunately it looks a little too hard to store. My big issue right now is I need something I can set and take down per session. We only live in 1000sq ft so space is an issue. I can store my gear in one of the closets no problem, but I can't very well set up a shop in our living room... So the question is how do I get a rock solid mount under your press that's portable?
I'm gonna buy a reloading kit
- Thread starter Lee6113
- Start date
Is that the stand Lee makes? It looks square, not triangular. Edit: Oh, that is the Inline Fabrication mounts.
I spent some time test assembling my press, cleaned and oiled it, and got an idea for how I'm going to be using it. I think I'm definitely going to get some sort of mobile work bench to mount it to (I may just buy one of the inline fabrication mounts).
Perhapss a Husky X Workhorse bench might work as well. Tomorrow after work I will go out to Home Depot or Lowe's and look around for some more ideas.
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Husky-X-Workhorse-Workbench-17185155/202021304
I spent some time test assembling my press, cleaned and oiled it, and got an idea for how I'm going to be using it. I think I'm definitely going to get some sort of mobile work bench to mount it to (I may just buy one of the inline fabrication mounts).
Perhapss a Husky X Workhorse bench might work as well. Tomorrow after work I will go out to Home Depot or Lowe's and look around for some more ideas.
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Husky-X-Workhorse-Workbench-17185155/202021304
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I don't have any experience with either of those B&D rigs. I am not a fan of B&D for anything that has a cord at all, but folks have said good things about those portable benches. My only comment on them is that the one that is about twice the price only increases the weight capacity from 450 to 550 pounds, so I would wonder if it was a significant upgrade for your purposes. You will have to look at them.
I looked at that X-bench thing at Home Depot for another purpose (a saw-horse type use, IIRC), and it seemed really flimsy to me and I passed.
I looked at that X-bench thing at Home Depot for another purpose (a saw-horse type use, IIRC), and it seemed really flimsy to me and I passed.
Alright, I've decided to go with the Inline Fabrication mount down the road. For now I will just mount it to a board and C-Clamp it to my desk. I purchased a 10' piece of lumber at Lowe's today (2"x8") and had it sliced to x2 2' boards and x2 3' boards. I also bought some screws for mounting (I was surprised none came with the press), but I may return them. I got 1/4th lag screws but it seems a little loose in the press so I'll switch it for 5/16ths.
IMO that's the way to go in your situation . This way you see and feel the torque the press has on the board & desk . This will help you later decide what to do when you make something more permanent .
I use an actual desk that I sit down to and reload at . These pics were taken when I first set it up . It's a little different now with the shelves redone and and more things added . That desk is lag bolted to the wall and is rock solid .
I also set up bolting system for other things like a vise , case trimmer . powder measure etc on the left side .
All hardware bolts through the desk into these nut things ( i forget what they're called ) I secured a second piece of pine under the desk to help support all the stresses as well as allow those nut things to counter sink .
I'm lucky though I have a small extra room I was able to convert into my reloading room .
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First reloading effort
I have been reloading only for a couple years now, and went with the LCT. First off, I had NO equipment, so most of what's included was needed for my loading. I started off just doing .223, and of course had to add a die set, case trimmer, case gauge, and bought an MTM (cheapy) digital scale to check against the beam scale.
The LCT (Lee Classic Turret) is great because you can set up the dies, then cheaply pick up additional turret plates for around $15. Then, when you want to dedicate a turret to another caliber, the setup is ready to go. I have added the dual-disk pro powder measure, too, but one thing on the .223 brass is when you use military brass, there's the crimp to remove, and you wind up needing a swager OR a reamer to remove the crimp. The other thing I found was you need several de-capping pin spares, as some military crimped primers are REALLY tight in the pockets to de-cap.
I just recently started to reload 9mm, and it's much easier than rifle. I use a handheld primer tool (feel the primers going in), and other than those items, it's a good inexperienced-reloader-setup.
I buy bullets, primers, and powder when I see them on sale, or, when they finally show up on shelves locally. One of the main reasons to reload is the availability of ammo whenever you need it....whenever the shelves go bare due to a run on ammo/supplies, your stash is your friend.
RCBS, LEE, Horndady, and the big bucks Dillon are all fine, but if you only are using a couple hundred rounds a month or so, production-capable setups are not cost-effective at all....it depends on your "need", vs. having the cadillac setup of presses.
I have been reloading only for a couple years now, and went with the LCT. First off, I had NO equipment, so most of what's included was needed for my loading. I started off just doing .223, and of course had to add a die set, case trimmer, case gauge, and bought an MTM (cheapy) digital scale to check against the beam scale.
The LCT (Lee Classic Turret) is great because you can set up the dies, then cheaply pick up additional turret plates for around $15. Then, when you want to dedicate a turret to another caliber, the setup is ready to go. I have added the dual-disk pro powder measure, too, but one thing on the .223 brass is when you use military brass, there's the crimp to remove, and you wind up needing a swager OR a reamer to remove the crimp. The other thing I found was you need several de-capping pin spares, as some military crimped primers are REALLY tight in the pockets to de-cap.
I just recently started to reload 9mm, and it's much easier than rifle. I use a handheld primer tool (feel the primers going in), and other than those items, it's a good inexperienced-reloader-setup.
I buy bullets, primers, and powder when I see them on sale, or, when they finally show up on shelves locally. One of the main reasons to reload is the availability of ammo whenever you need it....whenever the shelves go bare due to a run on ammo/supplies, your stash is your friend.
RCBS, LEE, Horndady, and the big bucks Dillon are all fine, but if you only are using a couple hundred rounds a month or so, production-capable setups are not cost-effective at all....it depends on your "need", vs. having the cadillac setup of presses.
Hi all, here is an update, and I've got another question.
I have set up figured out. I mounted my press to a board - actually I have four options. Two 3' boards and two 2' boards that I can mount either in the center, or the right side. The 2' right side mount works best clamped to my kitchen counter (it's sturdier than my desk) and I can use the table for extra space for components and everything. So set up I'm very pleased with.
Now the next step for me is buying components. I've been reading thru the Lyman 49th Edition but it appears to have only three pages of data for the .38special. Twelve total bullet options and all their recommended powders and starting loads, etc. I'm not sure which is best for me to start with. I intended to buy in bulk and get the appropriate recommended powder after I get the bullets figured out.
Any recommendations on what to start with? The factory ammo I used was Winchester 38special 130gr fmj. There are no 130gr fmj bullets in the manual however.
I was thinking of going to a small local store that has some reloading supplies and asking the guys there about it but they're closed today.
I don't necessarily want to duplicate the factory ammo, I just am a little lost on where to begin. My goal is to get safe target rounds to shoot with at indoor and outdoor ranges with my SW m10.
Thanks guys!
Lee
I have set up figured out. I mounted my press to a board - actually I have four options. Two 3' boards and two 2' boards that I can mount either in the center, or the right side. The 2' right side mount works best clamped to my kitchen counter (it's sturdier than my desk) and I can use the table for extra space for components and everything. So set up I'm very pleased with.
Now the next step for me is buying components. I've been reading thru the Lyman 49th Edition but it appears to have only three pages of data for the .38special. Twelve total bullet options and all their recommended powders and starting loads, etc. I'm not sure which is best for me to start with. I intended to buy in bulk and get the appropriate recommended powder after I get the bullets figured out.
Any recommendations on what to start with? The factory ammo I used was Winchester 38special 130gr fmj. There are no 130gr fmj bullets in the manual however.
I was thinking of going to a small local store that has some reloading supplies and asking the guys there about it but they're closed today.
I don't necessarily want to duplicate the factory ammo, I just am a little lost on where to begin. My goal is to get safe target rounds to shoot with at indoor and outdoor ranges with my SW m10.
Thanks guys!
Lee
Rangerrich99
New member
Have you thought about shooting lead or coated lead?
Lead bullets are less expensive than jacketed or plated, and if you get them coated (basically painted) then you don't have the worries about lead poisoning. On average a lead/coated lead bullet is between 8-10 cents. Plated bullets seem to run around 12-14 cents, jacketed a little more.
Another plus to shooting lead besides initial cost, is that lead bullets are kind of self-lubricated so they fly faster than a similar jacketed bullet on the same powder charge, so you use less powder per bullet, and so spend less money. Of course, with powder we're talking about fractions of a penny per bullet, but over time it adds up.
I get mine from Missouri Bullets, but there are dozens of companies that make and sell lead bullets.
Lead bullets are less expensive than jacketed or plated, and if you get them coated (basically painted) then you don't have the worries about lead poisoning. On average a lead/coated lead bullet is between 8-10 cents. Plated bullets seem to run around 12-14 cents, jacketed a little more.
Another plus to shooting lead besides initial cost, is that lead bullets are kind of self-lubricated so they fly faster than a similar jacketed bullet on the same powder charge, so you use less powder per bullet, and so spend less money. Of course, with powder we're talking about fractions of a penny per bullet, but over time it adds up.
I get mine from Missouri Bullets, but there are dozens of companies that make and sell lead bullets.
I'm fine with shooting lead bullets, but in door ranges won't let you shoot them, typically. the range I intend to join is a outdoor fan range, though so it probably isn't a big problem. I can always buy factory ammo for indoor ranges and that'll add to my brass. And eventually I can just add fmj to my reloading.
I probably should re read some sections from my manual but I'm pretty sure there are still only 12 bullet types in the Lyman manual.
What type of bullets would you recommend for just range targets? Lead wadcutters?
I probably should re read some sections from my manual but I'm pretty sure there are still only 12 bullet types in the Lyman manual.
What type of bullets would you recommend for just range targets? Lead wadcutters?
Rangerrich99
New member
For target shooting, I use Missouri Bullets .38 special 125 grain TCFP, catalog name Cowboy #2, Hi-Tek (coated).
Yeah wadcutters are great for punching holes in paper .
The Lyman book gets pretty specific in which bullet to use for that data . Really you just need the data from the bullet that best looks/represents the bullet you will use . It does not have to be the same bullet just the same weight and profile .
If you look at bullet manufacturers data you will see they use the same data for multiple bullets of the same weight all with different profiles so just use the data that closest represents the bullet you will use or buy the exact bullet .
The Lyman book gets pretty specific in which bullet to use for that data . Really you just need the data from the bullet that best looks/represents the bullet you will use . It does not have to be the same bullet just the same weight and profile .
If you look at bullet manufacturers data you will see they use the same data for multiple bullets of the same weight all with different profiles so just use the data that closest represents the bullet you will use or buy the exact bullet .
Thanks, Metal God, that's very helpful! I may also pick up a second manual. Any recommendations?
Also, I will be buying small pistol primers tomorrow. My LGS has CCI and Remington boxes of 1000 available. I'm at work so I haven't looked at my manual so I figured I'll just ask here: any recommendations on brand? I will be buying tomorrow.
Thanks everyone!
Lee
Edit: I went with CCI.
Also, I will be buying small pistol primers tomorrow. My LGS has CCI and Remington boxes of 1000 available. I'm at work so I haven't looked at my manual so I figured I'll just ask here: any recommendations on brand? I will be buying tomorrow.
Thanks everyone!
Lee
Edit: I went with CCI.
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My only suggestion of another manual would be the bullet manufactures manual of the bullets you'll likely use the most . I shoot A LOT of Hornady and Sierra so I have both there manuals ,they are both good and either would be fine addition .
I would like to add something to my last post . Not only should your bullet share the same weight and profile of the data you are using . The materials should be the same as well , Jacketed , lead , plated , solid . Each of these materials and or how they are made makes them react differently then each other in the bore . Data is often different for each of those materials .
I would like to add something to my last post . Not only should your bullet share the same weight and profile of the data you are using . The materials should be the same as well , Jacketed , lead , plated , solid . Each of these materials and or how they are made makes them react differently then each other in the bore . Data is often different for each of those materials .
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Another question:
I'm looking at buying bullets next, but I can't seem to find any data. I've got my eyes on x2,000 124gr fmj from Precision Delta for about $0.09 per bullet but I can't find corresponding load info. Neither online or my manual.
Keeping the above post in mind, I would need to have a similar bullet that's 124gr and full metal jacket, correct? Can't seem to find anything...
Precision Delta's faq says to refer to my manual for data.
I'm looking at buying bullets next, but I can't seem to find any data. I've got my eyes on x2,000 124gr fmj from Precision Delta for about $0.09 per bullet but I can't find corresponding load info. Neither online or my manual.
Keeping the above post in mind, I would need to have a similar bullet that's 124gr and full metal jacket, correct? Can't seem to find anything...
Precision Delta's faq says to refer to my manual for data.
Well that's where multiple sources come in . At times you will have to look at multiple sources and look for commonalities . Sometimes you can't find the exact bullet/weight powder combo . That starts getting a little more complicated because you now start looking at similar burn rates among other things . As you get more experienced these types of decisions become less of a leap of faith and more a experience based decision .
Hornady has 124gr FMJ data
Accurate has 124gr FMJ data on pages 7, 8 & 9 http://www.accuratepowder.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/WesternLoadGuide1-2016_Web.pdf
Lyman has 125gr JHP data I would not be against using , seeing how Hornady and Sierra both use the same data for both there FMJ and JHP bullets .
It's good to read and asked these questions because this is all the biulding blocks of your knowledge . At first these questions seem complicated but as your experience grows they will become easier to asses .
There's never a stupid question when it comes to this hobby .
What powders do you have or what powders can you find ?
Hornady has 124gr FMJ data
Accurate has 124gr FMJ data on pages 7, 8 & 9 http://www.accuratepowder.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/WesternLoadGuide1-2016_Web.pdf
Lyman has 125gr JHP data I would not be against using , seeing how Hornady and Sierra both use the same data for both there FMJ and JHP bullets .
It's good to read and asked these questions because this is all the biulding blocks of your knowledge . At first these questions seem complicated but as your experience grows they will become easier to asses .
There's never a stupid question when it comes to this hobby .
What powders do you have or what powders can you find ?