Im going to refinish a stock, heres my gameplan

Good tip!

"Then when I'm applying a finish, be it Tung Oil, Antique Oil, or just BLO, I wet sand with the liquid finish I'm applying, usually starting with the second application of the finish. That's what generates the superfine dust/oil mixture that fills the pores in the grain. Of course there are several other ways to fill the pores (rottenstone and BLO or even commercial wood filler in the shade that you want). "
That is an excellent tip! I have always hated applying a finish, but with revitalizing some stocks recently, I have to do it. I have just skipped the pore filling process, but your tip makes sense here.
I have filled voids mixing the fine dust with epoxy, back in the day of cabinet making. It was a quick way to fix a problem without compromising the finished product.

Thanks!
 
You and I are so alike in that we hate doing the finish. I don't know a woodworker that likes putting on a finish. Anyway, the Rottenstone and BLO mixture works pretty good and it doesn't artificially darken the stock. The commercial wood filler that I have (in Walnut) is darker than most wood stocks, so it can't help but darken the wood. You may or may not like it darker. I used the filler (in red mahogany) on a desk I made for the oldest grandson and it worked great. But...it's messy and I honestly just hate doing it. Would you like some left over wood filler?:D
 
The old Mashburn stock finish everyone swore by from the late 40's to the early 60's was 3 parts Johnson's Traffic Kote floor sealer to 1 part Faultless starch. The walnut tone had 2 drops of liquid brown Dyan Shine shoe polish added to each bottle. Art pulled it from the market when the price of Traffic Kote went up & he would have had to raise the price of the finish 25 or 30 cents a bottle. He considered that highway robbery & refused to try to sell it for that much.
 
Hey guys just wanted to let you know I finally finished. Started with a remover and removed everything, messed up one piece of checking and spent a week fixing it myself with a small chisel and sanding. Anyway from there I sanded from 200 to 800 then wetsanded at 800 2 times. Applied my first coat and sanded, did this 3 times then added 8 more coats. Took my butt plate apart and taped it all off and repainted it black and clear coated it. This gun honestly looks better than before and I couldnt be happier with the outcome. Thanks guys
 
wax an oil finish?

I have a very nice sako oil finished rifle. Trouble is when I handle it ( use it for hunting), or it gets wet, it gets smudges and finger prints. Once it is cleaned up is there a top coating wax that i could use or something completely different I should do?
 
You can use wax. No problem. But...if it's an oil finished stock, once the stock is clean and dry take a couple of drops (yes, just a drop or two) of Boiled Linseed Oil and rub them into the palms of your hands and then rub the oil into the stock. It'll give you that rich deep look that the stock had when new. I think you'll like that.
 
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