Idiot newbie with primer problems

I agree with Jeep Hammer. At least some Hornady factory ammo brass have crimped primer pockets. It looks like these have crimped primer pockets to me.

Unless you want to spend the time to swage the primer pockets, don't try to force new primers into cleaned brass with crimped primer pockets.
The first thing to do when the primer won't go in relatively easily is not to try and force them in without first checking to see if they have crimped primer pockets.

You can tell there is a crimp if you look carefully, especially if you compare it to non-crimped brass.

You really do have to inspect the brass you are about to reload after you have cleaned it. I would also recommend that you sort the brass by head stamp if you want to load for accuracy.
 
You guys are on the mark.

Rule number one is to purchase a couple manuals and carefully read them. Over and over. When you think you understand what is going on read them again.

There is nothing with reloading that requires the force you used to press those primers in with.

Inspect the cases in detail every time you touch them. Then read the manual again if you don't understand some thing.

You don't need power tools of any type to load with. Especially to deburring case mouths.

It is best to learn with hand tools and inspect every time you handle the case... So you had one primer jam. You should have stopped when it would not go in easy. You should have not gone on to the next case without figuring out what caused the high resistance TWO more times! That's a big no no.

Get a primer pocket reamer and when you first inspect the cases you will be able to try to ream out the primer pocket. IT is only required the first time. Read the manual as you proceed with the loading process. The first time will be slow but correct and with practice you will see what is needed to be more productive. With out a BANG ;)
 
Every Hornady TAP round I've ever seen has ALWAYS been crimped, and a bunch of crimped rounds have come from Hornady.

The pictures CLEARLY show crimped primer pockets, primers hung on crimp.

I stand corrected, don't even know what a TAP is.
 
Hornady has a 'TAP' line out, (Tactical And Police, I think)
They also have a 7.62 (.308) line out that duplicates 7.62mm M118 Long Range rounds the military uses, all crimped primers, sealed primers, sealed bullets.

We all know the 'Tacti-Cool' craze blurred the line between civilian & military production, and the HUGE 'Civilian' Law Enforcment contracts (3.2 Billion rounds using 100% military standards) blurred the line between civilian & military even farther,
This is just another example.

I had a guy drop off a rifle just a couple weeks ago, two boxes of 'Civilian' (yellow box) rounds from Remington, and one box was crimped, the other wasn't.
If crimps are making it into civilian blasting ammo, the line is virtually gone.
 
>>>Tossing a bunch of $$ into an expensive and advanced reloading set-up that is difficult to adjust and is overly technical is a poor way to start IMHO. <<<

That is something that only an inexperienced loader that has not tried a better trimmer would say.
Buying a half baked design that will not trim half of the cartridges you shoot is really dumb.


Where are you going to get the Lee trimmer parts for a .225 Win, 6x47 Rem, 6.5 Dutch, 7mm TCU, .416 Taylor, 6.5 Jap and 7.7 Jap, .25-35 Win, 32-40 Win, .33 Win, 6.5X58 Portuguese, .35 Win, and many others? The Forster that I bought in 1975 will trim all of these and many more. It was not too expensive or advanced and was not difficult or overly technical way back then for thousands of reloader and it is NOT now either. By the way it is a cheaper set up for a handloader that shoots a lot of different rounds than almost any other trimmer that I can think of.Once you have the 3 main collets and a set of pilots there is noting else that you need.
 
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