I would appreciate revolver recommendations for a newbie

Inspectorlee:

If you haven't already, I strongly suggest that you take an NRA Basic Pistol class. It will answer some of the questions that you are asking.

First, when most people say .38, they mean .38 Special. Not always, but usually. There are other .38 calibers, but the predominant one is .38 Spcl. +P means that ammunition is loaded to higher pressures than the standard SAAMI pressure for that caliber. +P+ means even higher than +P. Not all guns are capable of handling +P or +P+. Check the manual and/or call the manufacturer. Any .357 Magnum gun can fire .38 Spcl +P or .38 Spcl +P+.

.357 Magnum was developed after .38 Spcl and is a slightly longer cartridge, loaded to much higher pressures. You can shoot .38 spcl ammo in a .357 Mag gun, but not vice versa. If you could get a .357 Mag case into a .38 Spcl gun and you fired it, you would quite possibly permanently damage the gun, due to the much higher chamber pressures.

S&W makes a wide variety of double action revolvers, but they are all basically a variation of a small number of frames, from smallest to largest:

J-frame - small, 5 shot
K-frame - medium, 6 shot
L-frame - bigger than K, smaller than N, 6 - 8 shot
N-frame - largest, 6 shot

S&W sells many variations, with different action types (DA vs DAO vs shrouded hammer), barrel length, etc.

I strongly agree with Stephen Camp. Get a 4" S&W Model 19 or 66. The 19 is a blued gun (you'll have to get one used, they're no longer made). The 66 is essentially the same gun as the 19, but in stainless. The 19/66 are .357 Mag, built on the K-frame.

I suggest that you start (and probably stick with) .38 Spcl. It has a whole lot less recoil than .357 Mag. If you shoot a whole lot of .357 Mag, then a the L-frame (686) might be better. But I think few of us really shoot that much 357 Mag, and personally, I think the 19/66 balances better in my hand than the 686.

In terms of recoil, with .38 Spcl, you'll probably find the recoil is much less than .40. Depending upon the particular .357 load, in a 19/66 the recoil might be somewhat greater and the muzzle blast and report will likely be significantly greater.

M1911
 
I agree with those who've suggested the .357 mag revolver or the 9 mm.

My favorites are the:
S & W 686 (.357 mag)- accurate, reliable, excellent workmanship
Beretta 92 FS or M9- very reliable...you can shoot it all day without any jams, misfeeds, etc.

Dennis D. Carter
 
I did a bit of searching and found out that Wisconsin does not allow anyone besides cops to carry a concealed weapon. As such, I will not be carrying a gun around during the day and what not.

With this new information, would it benefit me to move up to a six inch barrel? Nearly all the previous replies have suggested a four inch barrel, which I assume allows one to carry a gun more comfortably. But since I will not be able to carry my revolver at all, should I move up? The longer barrel increases accuracy, muzzle velocity, and weight right? And increased weight normally helps with recoil right?

I think .38 special would be a good caliber for me. But if a .357 can shoot both, I wonder if I should go with a .357? I will try to find time next week to shoot a few rounds of .357 ammo to see if it would be a good match for me.

I also saw some pictures of a Colt King Cobra and it looks gorgeous with a 6 inch barrel vs. the 4 inch barrel. Yes, I'm a sucker for good looks. Thanks for all the help so far!

Inspectorlee
 
King Cobra was a nice gun. A six inch barrel is no more accurate than a four or two inch barrel. The longer sight radius just makes it a little easier to shoot accurately. If you are going to use this gun as a house defense gun I would still recommend a four inch barrel, the six inch barrel would probably be a little unwieldly. I am basing this recommendation on my own experiences with barrels from two inches to eight inches on various 357's.
 
Inspectorlee:

The main benefit of a longer barrel is increased sight radius. But I personally find that the 4" 19/66 balances perfectly for me. Longer barrels than that feel front-heavy to me. YMMV.

M1911
 
My recommendation would still be the 4" because of the balance and feel. You should try to find a range or a friend that will rent/loan you a revolver or two and try them out. Buy one like the one you shoot best!
 
Thank you!

Okay, one last question and I swear I'll leave you guys alone. This is strictly a cosmetic question, but does anyone make a revolver that has a "slab sided" barrel. The best example is the Taurus Raging Bull I saw at the store. Instead of the usual round barrel, the barrel's side were flat. It looked like a cross between a semi-auto and a revolver.

And thanks for all the advice and information. It has been a great help.
 
I just gotta put my .02 in. NO ONE mentioned the Lady Smith. Yeah, not nearly as 'manly' as the Raging Bull, but with your small hands you might fall in love with a Lady Smith. This is a five or six shot (depending on model) Smith & Wesson .357 revolver. Because it's made for 'women' you get really nice wood grips and a nice case. Because it's made for 'women', it's a tad lighter. And, if memory serves me correctly (not always the case), they do make a compensated model. Compensated means two or three small holes at the front of the barrel, which allow you to come back on target quicker.

Last, but not least, if at all possible, TRY the pistol of choice at shooting range. Ask if they rent. OR if they will allow you to 'test fire' the weapon you have in mind. You will only get this option at shooting ranges that are also a gun shop(most are). If you have any specific questions that you don't want to post here, drop me an email and I'll try and help.
 
:cool: If I had my druthers ( which I don't in this anti-gun state I live in ) I would buy a .22 revolver, and practice as much as possible.
You don't sound as if you need high capacity-or even high performance from a handgun , and my guess is the little Single Action Ruger Bearcat would "fit".
The Bearcat is small, light, lies naturally in the hand, and -at reasonable distances- shoots just about where you POINT it :
all nice characteristics for a "house gun".;)
 
One point. The .22 LR probably kills more folks than any other non-military caliber, but it isn't worth a dime for stopping power. If you want to make a good hit and have the perp keep coming, then .22 is for you. Truth is no handgun caliber is a sure thing, but a .22 is not a proper caliber for H.D.
 
If you only have one hand gun,
My advice would be A 4 inch Ruger GP-100 or A S&W 686, both are fine shooters, very good for hunting and great for home protection.

Hope This Helps
 
It is good to see new shooters. I just hope that all the information you've been deluged with doesn't overwhelm you Inspectorlee.

The 6" barrel will give you increased sight radius (sight radius is the distance from the rear sight to the front sight: A long sight radius tends to reduce the effects of sighting errors) and it will be just a bit easier to shoot it well. I also like revolvers that are balanced with the weight a bit forward (muzzle heavy) so longer barrels feel better to me. That's a personal preference and you should hold several barrel lengths to see which feels "better" to you. The feel that is right for you is very very subjective and may well differ from what I like.

Since you're not going to carry it concealed, the 6" barrel should be just fine. The Colt revolvers are no longer made and tend to be relatively expensive. Were it me, I'd get a stainless steel Smith and Wesson in .357 Magnum. The stainless is much less likely to rust and you can shoot .38 Special ammunition as well as .357 Magnum. Many shooters end up shooting far more .38 special than .357.

Be aware, there are older revolvers available in 38 S&W which is an entirely different cartridge than .38 Special. They are NOT interchangeable! The ammunition you shoot MUST match the caliber stamped on the firearm EXACTLY, Refer to the owner's manual for any questions. If you aren't absolutely positive that the ammunition/firearm are an exact match, don't use it without verifying that the combination is acceptable. Mistakes can be disastrous!

I'm also a pushover for good looking guns . It's an excellent reason to buy another firearm too (though my wife doesn't agree).
 
Inspectorlee,
...one more opinion...buy a ruger model gp-100 in .357 magnum, with a 4-inch barrel, in stainless steel; buy it new, from a dealer recommended by people you have met at the range, and if at all possible, buy it with the help of someone who can ascertain that the specimen you buy is "tight" and has a good trigger- not all new revolvers are equal... the one you buy may be the fourth or fifth one you look at...
...the ruger gp-100 is built like a combat tank, can be purchased with a single-action trigger pull from the factory every bit as good as the triggers on many smith & wessons...
...in my opinion, a double-action revolver is the safest firearm you can own for self-defense- with five rounds out of six loaded, with the hammer on an empty cylinder chamber, the handgun cannot fire accidentally, and yet will fire immediately by pulling the trigger in double-action mode- unlike single-action and semi-autos, which need "priming"...
...i really like the other guys' advice to consider a .22 long rifle calibered handgun for inexpensive practice and fun- i highly recommend that you buy a used smith & wesson "old" blued-finished model 17 "k-22" [model 17-2, 17-3, 17-4] (the 6" barreled version is a classic), call s&w for a repair label, and send it via Fed-Ex to them to have it tested and repaired as needed ...the total cost of purchase and repair will leave you with a superior revolver for life...
...taking a handgun class is a fabulous idea- you should learn excellent safety procedures, grip and stance alternatives, proper cleaning, how not to oil a revolver...
...hope the above helps you to maximize your enjoyment and minimize mistakes...
 
Here's my 2 cents:
Get either a .357 mag or .44 mag.
Both shoot lighter loads (.38 and .44 specials, respectively) and there are lots used to choose from.
S&W has the reputation for the nicest triggers, and for good reason. Ruger has a rep for building a tank that won't quit with a sweet price tag.
4" is a great barrel length for CC, but if that's out I can't think of a good reason why you shouldn't get a 6" or even 8" barrel.
The longer barrel gives increased velocities (longer powder-burn time) and that WILL become important to you! Also, longer barrel = more weight = less "kick."
Blued steel is soooo much pertier on a revolver, but as you first gun, consider a stainless for one-less-thing-to-worry-about and so you can scuff it up before you buy your second gun - the "safe queen."
:D

Forget the .22 unless you have $ for two.
Unless you hit the perp in the eyeball, it'll probably just make him mad, and kill him a week later.
A well-placed .44 special, on the other hand....
 
TWO THOUGHTS

You mentioned you have small hands. Of all the guns listed here 2 of them are to your benifit. Both the Dan Wesson and the GP100 have grip stods on which to attach the grips. This enables a MUCH WIDER RANGE OF GRIP SIZES TO BE USED WITH THESE GUNS. Larger and SMALLER than is normally seen. Just a thought.
Also the GP100 with full lug barrel is somewhat flatsided.
 
Dan Wesson

Sorry to keep asking for more info but I'm the kind of guy that buys a car and drives it until it breaks. I have the same mentality now that I'm buying a gun. I frequently see members state that they bought such and such a gun only to regret it a few months later and sold it off. Thus, I'm trying to get enough information on all my options so that I can make the right choice the first time around.

I went to Dan Wesson's site (after seeing the name a few times) and found that they sell a compensated .357 magnum with interchangable barrels. But I swear I saw a post that stated that the new Dan Wesson guns are not of the same quality as the older ones (1980's I assume). Is there any truth to this? I didn't have a chance to glance at their prices but it doesn't matter to me. I figure, do it right the first time, even if it costs $1200. I forgot to mention my budget before too I guess.

So, with a budget of up to $1200, does this change any of the numerous recommendations supplied earlier in the thread? I would prefer to buy new unless the model in question is no longer in production like the Colt Python. Thanks in advance.

Inspectorlee
 
Inspectorlee:
You're getting a lot of great advice, you're wise to ask questions first, before you get involved with shopping. Can't really comment about the Dan Wesson quality issues, don't have much experience with them myself.
I will add to the members recommending a S&W M19 or M66 for your initial purchase. While they will readily take 357 mag. rounds, you can shoot 38 +P ammo for a boost in stopping power over regular 38's and less recoil and muzzle blast than 357's. Since you've noted that you have small hands, try to use grips that leave the backstrap (the back part of the metal grip frame) exposed. Many grips cover the backstrap, and that will move your hand farther back and make it a longer reach to the trigger. If you have a chance to try different models of grips, dry fire the guns with the double action stroke, where the trigger cocks the hammer and releases it, rather than cocking the hammer with your thumb first. That will give you the best idea of whether the grips will fit your hands properly.
Good luck and good shooting.
 
I can answer your Dan Wesson question. I have a model 15 6" blue and it's beautiful. The model 15 is the .357. If you do a search on Dan Wesson you should find some info that will back up the fact that the new Dan Wesson company is putting out a very fine assortment of revolvers and 1911's. They retooled the manufacturing line with all new CNC equipment and the assemblers apparently know what they are doing. I happen to have both the .357 revolver and a pointman Major stainless in .45 ACP. My opinion only but you can't go wrong with DW.
 
InspectorLee

Since you say you are new to revolvers, let me suggest that you start with used one. For one thing, you can buy a used revolver for about half what the new ones cost. Also, revolvers tend to have very long lives. I have many revolvers that are 50 or more years old and that still are a joy to shoot.

You will be using this mostly for recreational shooting, so I suggest that you concentrate on the 38special or the 357magnum revolvers. Often you can buy a great 38 special revolver at a steal price because most people want the 357s. It's funny because once they get the 357mag they will spend 90% of it's life shooting 38special.

I would suggest that you start with a S&W as frankly, they are very, very pleasant to shoot. Often you can find a very good used model-10 for under $200.00. I suggest that you stick to the K, L (almost identical in size) or the N (larger) framed models.

The advantage in accuracy of a 6" barrel over a 4" one is mostly that the sight radius is longer. Even a 4" barreled Smith will be accurate out beyond what most semi-automatic shooter would consider extreme range. You'll find that either is more than accurate enough for almost any situation.

To give you an idea of relative sizes, here are two S&W 4" revolvers. They are both 357magnums. the top gun is the S&W M-28 (their N frame) while the bottom is a S&W M-19, (their K frame).
standard.jpg


The Colt Snake guns (Python, Cobra, Diamondback) or the earlier Colt Army or Official Police are between the S&W N and K frames in size.

At the other extreme are the smaller revolvers such as the Colt Police Positive (also the detective special) and the S&W J frames are much smaller. Here is a S&W M-19 on top and the Colt Police Positive below. Again, both are 4" barrels.

standard.jpg


I hope that this helps.
 
Thanks Jar!

Your post was very helpful! Thanks for the pictures because they helped a lot with the confusion between frame sizes.

Inspectorlee
 
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