I would appreciate revolver recommendations for a newbie

Inspectorlee

Inactive
I would like to say hi to all the forum members here. This is my first post so please cut me some slack if I mess up. If my verbage sounds funny, it is because I am not a gun guy (yet!).

I am in the market for a new gun and am pretty clueless as what to get. It will be mostly for self-defense and may be used for the impromptu hunting trip (small game only). I have only recently fired a handgun a few months ago with my cousin. We fired two semi-auto's, a Glock and a Sig Sauer (we used one box of ammo). I was under the impression that they were both 9mm but later found out that they were in fact both actually .40 semi's. I actually like the Sig Sauer better because it had some heft to it and helped with the recoil. I actually like revolvers better however though and would appreciate any help in moving in the right direction. The following are details that will affect any recommendations from knowledgable people:

1. I am 5'6", 130 lbs. Yes, I'm a skinny guy with little hands. I am not weak, nor am I super strong. When shooting the .40's mentioned above, I used a two hand grip and the recoil was very managable. I did not attempt to fire with only one hand however.

2. I would prefer a six cylinder instead of a five cylinder.

3. I have been reading some old posts (via the search) for the past three days, but am still clueless to some of the commonly used acronyms and terms. If you respond, I would appreciate if you spelled out the acronyms and define any term you think I would not understand. I am totally lost when reading past posts with sentences such as these: "I prefer the J frame" or "I recommend a 626 over what he said". I have no idea what a J frame is (I'm assuming it's a common style) or what a 626 looks like (it's a model of some manufacturer right?).

4. I am not sure what caliber to pursue. I know that recoil differs according to the amount of gunpowder that is loaded (180 grain vs. 240 grain) but assuming everything is equal, could someone rank the caliber from least recoil to most. I am not totally clueless as I know that .22's are generally considered weak in the recoil department. But I am confused as to what's the difference between a .38 and a .38 special and a .38 special +P etc.

5. This gun will be only for me. I will not share it with a spouse or anything among that nature. But please remember that I have tiny hands however. Should I change out the factory grips? Whose should I use?

6. If I take it hunting at all, it will most likely be for two trips a year at most and will only be for small game (squirrels and the like). So please don't put too much emphasis on this factor.

7. I know this will be highly debated but I would like to know which manufacturer to look at, which model (please be specific, I won't know the difference unless you guys tell me), and so on.

8. I have decided on a 4 inch barrel. Am I wrong in this choice? I saw 6" Raging Bull at a local shop and that thing is HUGE in my opinion. Way too big for me to hold and to handle the recoil in my opinion.

9. Any recommendations on where to buy besides the usual gun shop or sporting goods store?

10. If this has been covered before, I apologize. In this case, kindly point me to a webpage or some other resource so that I can make an informed decision without bothering the senior members. Thank you if you have read this far. I really do appreciate any and all replies.


Inspectorlee
 
Hello, sir, and welcome! Glad you are here!

My suggestion for that first revolver would be a good, clean, used S&W .357 Magnum in 4" bbl and either a Model 19 or 66 in the medium frame size (K-frame) or a 586 or 686 in the larger size (L-frame.)

Many people find that these revolvers feel "just right" and they can be found fairly easily. For the money spent, you get one fine shooting machine, particularly if the revolvers have been carried much and shot little.

I suggested this caliber as .38 Specials can be shot in it as well and with no problems if you but clean the revolver after shooting.
You can shoot the lightest .38 target loads right on up to the full power .357 magnums. The guns are usually quite accurate and reliable.

Best.
 
A big welcome for Inspectorlee!! Based on your requirements I would recommend a good 357 Magnum revolver. For casual practice, plinking and small game you can use 38 Special ammunition, then step up to 357 Magnum for defense. How big is your budget? You can take a chance with a new Taurus, some are good and some are bad. You might find a nice, used Smith & Wesson model 19 or model 66 (same gun, just stainless steel) for around $300. A Smith & Wesson model 586 or 686 (stainless steel) should be easy to find in both new and used. Ruger's GP-100 would be an excellent purchase and is usually an economical choice. If you can find a Dan Wesson, they are usually great and Colt used to produce some great revolvers.
 
Which One?

I'd have to agree with going with the .357. Good all round handgun for Target, Hunting, and Self Protection! You just have to find the one that fits you. ;)
When I go hunting I take my Ruger BlackHawk SA and I've carried that one for a lot years.
When it comes to Target and CCW I have a thing for the S&W 686, Have them in both the 2 !/2" and 4" barrels.
There are a lot of guns out there, Try them out until you find one that fits your hands and your pocketbook! ;)
 
Inspectorlee.
I think you`ll definitely won`t go wrong picking a .38/357 snubbie,
The first handgun I used to carry was a Beretta 92FS.
It is a good gun,but you can`t
buy high capacity for the convenience
of carry,and you can`t have the convenience of carry
if you have a HC pistol.
Yes,I know that depends on the grip configuration,
position of the controls , etc...

Shooting a Beretta 92 FS is pure joy
Feeding the Beretta is cheap
Carrying the Beretta is a PITA (in summer)

Shooting a .38/357 snubbie is a challenge:D
Feeding the snubbie is cheap
Carrying the snubbie is EASY(even in summer)

OH! Forgot to say,the snubbie I like so much is
a Ruger SP 101 2,25" in .357 Mag :D It is LOUD and BRISKY
when fed with .357s,but I love it :D :cool:
HTH
Good shooting
 
.357

I would recommend a 4" .357.

My personal choices are a S&W M19 (medium sized K frame) or a M27/M28 (large sized N frame). A more modern option would be a M586/686 (a L frame sized between the above two choices). The L frame never really hit a cord for me.

You can shoot .38's, .38+p's, and .357. That leaves you a wide option of practice, target, self defense, and hunting loads. All plentiful at almost any location.

Grip options for the S&W's are plentiful. I have smallish hands as well and am a small guy. I've had no problem getting any of the above to comfortably fit my hands.

Police trade-ins and private party sales of above are readily available in most areas. If you had a budget between $250~$350, your choices would be very large. New production 686's are in the $500 range from what I have seen.

Another option would be a Ruger GP100. I personally don't like the feel of the Ruger, but guns are a personal choice and you need to find the one that fits best for you. Many swear by the Ruger and I don't feel it's inferior at all. Just not for me. My dad likes his.

I have no direct experience with any other brand.

Jeff
 
Just went through an exhaustive search for the wife. We actually purchased four guns to find the one. My father then purchased the same gun. He found it NIB. He is 76 years old and never owned a handgun previously. He is slight built.

S&W 66 / recessed cylinders..if you can find / 4" barrel / Install Jerry Miculek Competition grips (great for small-medium hands) / Holster from:

http://www.delfatti.com/

Can't be beat.

Go with Comp III speedloaders and carrier.

Have a trigger job done by good local smith. When revolver back, open it up and pack it with a mixture of toothpaste and rubbing compound. Close it up and spend a week or two dry firing. After thousands of dry firings, clean it up and lube with good teflon oil/cream. You now have one heck of a pistol. Now, practice, practice, practice. Settle on practice load and carry load of similar ballistics.

Gun shows are generally a good source.

Also:

http://www.gunsamerica.com/
http://www.gunbroker.com/


Last, post and thank me for wasting so much money on false starts and saving you a bundle looking for a great gun.
 
Gotta have that .357 magnum

Since some of the more expert types have already replied, I'd like to welcome you to the Firing Line and the wonderful world of the shooting arts. It is a hobby and valuable skill that you can thoroughly enjoy for a lifetime.

My personal favorite all-around gun would also be the .357 magnum. I own a Taurus Model 605 but it only has a 2" barrel and holds just 5 rounds. A good used Smith and Wesson .357 magnum with a 3 to 4 " barrel would fill the bill for you, give you the six rounds, and give you the option of shooting either .38 spcl or .357 rounds.

They are no-brainer reliable, versatile, adaptable to a variety of ammo types and situations. You can find a large number of aftermarket grips to fit your smaller hands, if necessary, although I don't think you'll have problems with the revolver.

As far as your first post: You're off to a fine start here.....well written with pertinent info for us to assist you.

Best wishes.....
 
OOPS! I feel obliged to correct my previous post.
Actually there ARE high capacity handguns convenient
to carry(assuming HC is 10+ rds).
While my Ruger is primary choice in warm/hot days,I think I could
go with a:
-P226 ,yes it`s a full size gun but somehow it feels much smaller
and flatter than the B92FS to me.
-P229 ,USPc, Glock subcompacts; I theorize here cuz i don`t own
these guns:( ,yet I feel I could carry them with ease.
 
Welcome aboard!

There are many, many choices, but for a starter gun (or otherwise) .... it's hard to go wrong with the ones mentioned above. My personal favorites are the S&W 66 4" and the Ruger GP 100 4". Both are stainless, accurate and stand-up to a lifetime of use.

Good luck ...

Gunner
 
hard to go wrong with a heavy barrel Model 10 Smith. You should be able to pick up a nice used one for around $225 or so. Practice, practice, practice, and before long you will shoot well, and be comfortable with a handgun. That is the time to branch out, but to start, I really like a nice wheelgun.
 
Wow, thanks for the replies guys. As I read through them, I took notes on what I didn't understand. Could someone shine some light on these (I apologize if the answers are obvious):

1. ".357 magnum in 4" bbl"--What does bbl stand for?

2. CCW--What does this stand for?

3. A .357 revolver can shoot .38 special bullets right? Is the opposite true? Can a gun chambered for .38 special, shoot .357 rounds?

4. "HC pistol"--What does HC stand for?

5. Are frames and their corresponding letters standardized? That is, is Colt L frame the same as a S&W L frame?

6. With the overwhelming recommendation to go with a .357, one question remains. How does the recoil compare to the .40 semi-autos that I fired? More? Less?

I looked at pictures of all the guns mentioned so far (Model 19, 66, 586, 686, and Ruger GP-100) and like the way the 686 and the GP-100 look. I noticed that some of them use carbon steel and some use stainless steel. From my assumptions, carbon steel is stronger right? Does the material used make a difference or is it merely cosmetic?

Lastly, I apologize for the double post. I tried to delete the second one but am told I cannot do so. Mods, feel free to delete the second post at your discretion.

Thank you and keep them coming. Everything is much appreciated.

Inspectorlee
 
Not much time, so I'll let someone else answer your list. We forgot one big issue. You need to go out and rent a bunch of guns and see what you like. You can't just compare guns on paper, or rely on someone else. To me, I like balance and a great trigger. You might not care about either, but like the way a gun looks. Go shoot them and forget us.
 
Hello. I'll do what I can:

"Wow, thanks for the replies guys. As I read through them, I took notes on what I didn't understand. Could someone shine some light on these (I apologize if the answers are obvious):

1. ".357 magnum in 4" bbl"--What does bbl stand for?bbl = barrel.

2. CCW--What does this stand for?CCW = Concealed Carry Weapon

3. A .357 revolver can shoot .38 special bullets right? Is the opposite true? Can a gun chambered for .38 special, shoot .357 rounds?No. The .357 is purposely 1/10" longer such that it should not chamber in any .38 Spec revolver for safety reasons. The former round's loaded to much higher pressures.

4. "HC pistol"--What does HC stand for?HC = high capacity, referring to number of rounds the handgun will hold.

5. Are frames and their corresponding letters standardized? That is, is Colt L frame the same as a S&W L frame?No. Frame designations are proprietary to the company.

6. With the overwhelming recommendation to go with a .357, one question remains. How does the recoil compare to the .40 semi-autos that I fired? More? Less? Felt recoil is subjective, but they are similar, but much has to do with the size guns being fired. Out of the same size and general weight handguns, I think they'd be pretty similar, but varying loads within each caliber could make one seem "worse" than the other and so forth.
A full-house .357 Magnum out of a large (N) frame S&W would seem tamer than a full-effort load out of a forty, but fired from a small, light weight carry pistol.


I looked at pictures of all the guns mentioned so far (Model 19, 66, 586, 686, and Ruger GP-100) and like the way the 686 and the GP-100 look. I noticed that some of them use carbon steel and some use stainless steel. From my assumptions, carbon steel is stronger right? Does the material used make a difference or is it merely cosmetic?"I have both heard and read that carbon steel is stronger than stainless, but do not KNOW if this is true. I suspect that it would take so many rounds to find out that the point's moot. Carbon steel will rust easier than will stainless and that's often the reason some choose stainless steel handguns.

Hope that helps some.

Best.
 
You just experienced another handgun term with your double post - the "double tap". Usually heard among semi-auto handgun users, the "double tap" is two rapid shots in more or less the same general direction. This is generally followed with the "spray & pray" approach semi-auto fans sometimes employ in stress situations. This is the method of basically ducking behind some sort of cover - sticking the pistol out in the open and popping as many shots as you can in more or less the general direction of the threat as fast as you can.

Most wheel gunners (I know I'll get flamed for this) tend to be better shots than semi-auto users. The wheel gun (revolver) has limited ammo capacity, so every shot counts. There is also the longer trigger pull and need for controlled grip and sighting. Thus, more practice is require to effectivly use a revolver under stress. But, this leads to more tactical awareness, threat level evaluation, consideration of acquision of cover and determined threat response. In the end, mastering good revolver techniques will increase your chances of survival and limit your civil and criminal liabilities if you are required to use the weapon in a threat situation - regardless of the type of firearm employed.
 
Welcome to TFL.

I'll play contrarian.

Consider a .22 lr (long rifle) pistol (slide action) or revolver (revolving cylinder). S&W makes a wide variety as does Taurus and Browning and Ruger. Barrel lengths range from 2-1/2" out to 6". Longer the barrel the better the accuracy particularly at distances.

Chief advantage is they are cheap to purchase new and cheaper used. Frames can be small to fit smaller hands.

They work just fine in hunting small animals.

Care and feeding is dirt cheap. 50 rounds of .38 special is $9.00. 500 rounds of .22 LR is $10.00.

In any case start off by doing it right. Safety training by NRA certified instructors is top notch. Then get basic handgunning classes. Practice does not make perfect. Perfect practice makes perfect.

Take the money you save and shoot your way through a variety of rental guns to determine just what you like.

Good luck and enjoy!
 
I would recommend a Dan Wesson in .357. Again, you can shoot the .38 specials through it as well as the heavier .357's. Very accurate and dependable. lso, with the Dan Wessons, you can change the barrel length when you want to. Start with a short 2.5" and go up to a full 10" when you want the accuracy.

I also agree that a safety course would benefit you greatly if you're just starting out. Try out some handguns at a club or range to really help in your decision.

Have fun and be safe.:cool:
 
Honest answer for a totally new shooter: One of the many .22LR/.22Mag SAA clones. These are cheap and are great for learning to shoot. They don't fetch much used, so get a used one for a song and keep it for your kids to learn on. I still use my old (and I do mean old) one for killing coyotes with the Magnum cylinder. This is the first handgun I ever shot, and I can really hit with it.

Honest answer for someone who has fired a handgun before: Used S&W K frame. I have been seeing a fair number of stainless Model 64s around lately. Super, super revolver. It is such a challenge to find a .357 that groups well with .38 Special that I don't even bother with the whole "3 calibers in 1" take any more (.357, .38 S, .38 +P).

I prefer S&W to Ruger, but there are a lot of good used Rugers around at real steals too. Personally, I think the fact that people are steamed at S&W is helping keep prices down on some great handguns (revovlers and autos). S&W got their cut on these several decades ago in many cases; it doesn't bother my conscience at all in a situation like that.
 
Like other's, I would have to recommend two very
fine revolvers made by the Smith & Wesson company.
The first, is a model 19 or 66 which is built on the very
popular K-frame and chambered for the powerful .357
magnum cartridge. The model 19 was offered in the
standard bright blue finish; as well as nickel. OTOH,
the model 66 is the same weapon; but made of the
very popular stainless steel construction. Both come
equipped with factory adjustable sight's; making it
an excellent choice for serious target shooting, or
as a CCW. Weight is advertised at 35 ozs.

A lot of the same comments can be said for the model
686; but its built on the L-frame, with a fully lugged
barrel. Standard weight for the 4" model is 42 ozs.
Some folks including myself believe that the 686 is
more durable; and will with stand the use of heavy
.357 magnum loads over a longer period of time, with
out damaging the firearm. Constant use of .38 Special
+P and +P+ loads are known to accelerate wear on
the smaller frames; but I beleive that the K and L
frames will handle this type of ammunition without
any problems.

In closing, both would serve you well. My suggestion
is to try and shoot both weapons before purchase;
and select the one that is right for you.

Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member
 
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