I think I'm about to give up semi-autos

MrBorland, I should say, for unlimited Vickers extra capacity can be a good thing.

If one misses a shot, which I know should never happen, but if one does, one can take an extra shot without a reload.

Also, if one sees one has a -3 hit, but can hit the -0 in one second, one has saved two seconds on the score.

I prefer not taking extra shots, either. Unfortunately, the one time I took one (failed to see I had in fact hit the target...) was in a limited Vickers stage, before I knew what "limited Vickers" meant.
 
I really believe all the revolver shooting I have done has made me a better shooter, the double action trigger and low round capacity really make you focus more on your fundamentals for each shot. I started off with revolvers so learning to shoot with a double action trigger pull on every shot made the transition to any semi-auto a breeze. I'ts funny because some of my buddies who don't shoot revolvers complain about the double action pull on some of their semi autos but since im so used to shooting revolvers its never given me a problem.
 
I've been shooting my S&W 625 JM exclusively for the last year and I have one more match to shoot with it in early October then I'm switching to my 1911. I have enjoyed shooting my revolver, and it has helped my shooting, but I'm ready for a change.
 
My approach, for what its worth

My K38 has a 9" sight radius and when the targets are in 3s thats what I use. When scenario targets number in 4s and 5s I grab the 1911 with 10 round mags. It just depends on what you are comfortable with.:D Not what anyone else uses!!!:)
 
Anyone employing the "spray and pray" technique means they are simply not calling their shots when they have to. Makeup shoots cost time, not just in the extra shot and split time, but possibly because unplanned shots might force you to add a reload that you also didn't plan for. That can mean the difference between first and last place.

The only reason you should shoot a 3rd shot is because your sights were not on that A zone when your gun went off. Yet there are those who practically empty their guns in rapid fire on a single drop-turn target. If you've practiced properly, whether you have 100 rounds or 1 round shouldn't make any difference in the placement of your shot.

Someone here mentioned Brian Enos, and in his book "Practical Shooting - Beyond Fundamentals" he talks about focus types in which he describes 5 different types of acceptable sight alignment and follow-through scenarios based on the difficulty of the shot. Obviously partially obscured targets at 25 yards require a different level of sight alignment and focus than multiple targets 10 feet in front of you. And this should be reflected in your split times.

This is why when practicing target transitions it's very important to also vary the distances - like putting the left target at 5 yards, the middle at 25 yards, and the right at 10 yards. Use a timer and take whatever amount of time and focus is necessary to shoot all A's, using Virginia count -2 shots per. While working up your time, actually record your split times and notice the differences between the transitioning times required on the close targets as well as the followup shot. Usually you'll improve your time very quickly at first by mostly shortening the transition and split time to the closest target - Brian Enos focus level 2. Once even that's achieved, you'll already have learned to instinctively apply different focus types to the situation at hand.

I only squeak by as a B level shooter according to my last four qualifiers, but I was a really bad D just last year until I decided to get professional instruction, and buy some videos and books and practice the heck out of it.
 
Kraig
My S&W 64 is my primary match pistol now days.
I have added new Wolfe springs and done a little smoothing.
I got a Fiber Optic front sight for a 1911 I was planning to install, however I put Green Sight paint on the front sight first, and I have stayed with it so far.
I took it up to see Ron Power a while back. He added Ball Loc and Chamfeded the Chambers. He also went over it and fixed end shake, etc. It is probably better than new mechanically.

I am using Safariland Comp III Speed Loaders.

I have a 625, 310, 610, and a 686 that has been converted to use moon clips. I like moon clips. With that said, I have no plan to convert the K Frame 64 to use moon clips for a couple reasons.

The Big One is Brass. I have thousands of rounds of 38 Special brass. I have GI, Winchester, UMC, Federal, Starline, Remington, PMC, etc, etc. on hand. I have a 100 round box that I have sorted examples of all the head stamps into, and it is almost full.
The 38 Special moon clips are brass brand specific. The under cut just under the rim that the shells use locking into the moon clips are different sizes on different brands of brass. This has Zero impact on how they work in a normal 38 Special revolver so this is not something that has to be the same. Big issue with a moon clip conversion.

If one were to go to moon clips in a 38 special you would need to go with one brand of brass. Probably Starline would be the best choice. I believe TK is the one who has moon clips for the different brands of 38 Special brass.

Another thing to keep in mind is the 38 moon clips are a little on the fragile side. Not a huge issue, you just need to be a little more careful not to bend them.

Last a moon clip 38 is not legal in IDPA SSR Division at this time. I think going back to a single Division for revolvers in IDPA would be a great plan. One Division would promote more improvements in equipment. Like moon clip 38 specials, and moon clip 40's.

You do have the advantage of recovering all of your brass with your moon clips during matches, where you normally have to leave them lay.

What K frame square butt grip does everyone like best? Wood, rubber, etc. and why?

Bob
 
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