While the op may have disappeared or already have the information needed, there were quite a few comments above that suggested there's an assumption that people want digital because of perceived accuracy--in fact I think that was the prevailing viewpoint.
There are several reasons I chose digital, mostly having to do with the way I've chosen to load and what I'm loading.
1. I've got at least two powders that I find simply have to be weighed--using a thrown weight isn't an option. One is 800X because it simply cannot be dropped in my equipment and at my desired throw weight without a 100% variation from charge to charge. The other is 4198 and anything like it, because the grains simply choke the powder measure--it won't rotate and chop those grains when they bridge across the cavity and the hopper.
2. I find it easy, fast and comforting to read my charge weight in big ol' 3/4" or 1" tall digits. I simply like seeing a weight readout.
3. I load some powders by trickling directly into the case--either literally into the case mouth, or into a funnel jammed into the case mouth. It takes me a few seconds to dump 40 gr of powder into the case, and I'm ready for the next. So, it's important to have a fairly fast tare function and quick damping. Case goes on the pan, hit tare, trickle, remove the case, repeat. If the scales reads well within a range I find negligible, I don't bother taring the scale at all--not going to worry 0.02 gr vs 0.00 gr for example. I like this method--with a speed trickler I find it fast and it eliminates any handling or pouring of the propellant (except to load the trickler once, etc).
4. When doing small handgun loads for chronography, I have often wanted a good number of loads at each of many different charges, but each charge differing by only .1 gr or so, for example Clays or Solo 1000 loads down around 3-4 gr. So, rather than trying to hit 3.1 g as closely as possible and not overshoot to 3.2, I set the scale to milligrams. This lets me see higher resolution, move faster to the desired charge, and not overshoot by large chunks. This isn't a matter of wanting extraordinary accuracy (or precision, either) because I think it's going to improve my shooting--I just want to generate a plot from the best possible source data. That's fun for me.
So anyway, digital for this application makes sense to me and is my preferred way to go. Other than maybe on the microwave oven or at the gas pump, I can't think of any other places in my day-to-day living where I don't prefer an analog readout (e.g., clocks, weather thermometers, auto dashboard).
There are several reasons I chose digital, mostly having to do with the way I've chosen to load and what I'm loading.
1. I've got at least two powders that I find simply have to be weighed--using a thrown weight isn't an option. One is 800X because it simply cannot be dropped in my equipment and at my desired throw weight without a 100% variation from charge to charge. The other is 4198 and anything like it, because the grains simply choke the powder measure--it won't rotate and chop those grains when they bridge across the cavity and the hopper.
2. I find it easy, fast and comforting to read my charge weight in big ol' 3/4" or 1" tall digits. I simply like seeing a weight readout.
3. I load some powders by trickling directly into the case--either literally into the case mouth, or into a funnel jammed into the case mouth. It takes me a few seconds to dump 40 gr of powder into the case, and I'm ready for the next. So, it's important to have a fairly fast tare function and quick damping. Case goes on the pan, hit tare, trickle, remove the case, repeat. If the scales reads well within a range I find negligible, I don't bother taring the scale at all--not going to worry 0.02 gr vs 0.00 gr for example. I like this method--with a speed trickler I find it fast and it eliminates any handling or pouring of the propellant (except to load the trickler once, etc).
4. When doing small handgun loads for chronography, I have often wanted a good number of loads at each of many different charges, but each charge differing by only .1 gr or so, for example Clays or Solo 1000 loads down around 3-4 gr. So, rather than trying to hit 3.1 g as closely as possible and not overshoot to 3.2, I set the scale to milligrams. This lets me see higher resolution, move faster to the desired charge, and not overshoot by large chunks. This isn't a matter of wanting extraordinary accuracy (or precision, either) because I think it's going to improve my shooting--I just want to generate a plot from the best possible source data. That's fun for me.
So anyway, digital for this application makes sense to me and is my preferred way to go. Other than maybe on the microwave oven or at the gas pump, I can't think of any other places in my day-to-day living where I don't prefer an analog readout (e.g., clocks, weather thermometers, auto dashboard).
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