I love My Hornady Lock n Load
- Thread starter THEWELSHM
- Start date
I'm with you, it's a absolute joy to use this press, only thing that would be better would be to have two. I reload a lot of .223 on this press, but the only time I get to use it to its full potential is when I'm reloading .40 S&W. I also have a lnl single stage press that I do my rifle resizing on. It's ok
schmellba99
New member
I have had great luck with mine.
The primer system was problematic at first, but swapping out the old seating rams with the new design, learning to keep it clean (not a big deal) and a couple of my own tweaks have made it near foolproof.
I suggest getting extra pickup tubes for each of small and large primers so you can fill them up before you start hitting the ram on the press - I have 4 or 5 of each size and will load them all up so that when I run out in the tube on the press, adding more is quick and easy and I don't really disrupt my rhythm or slow myself down.
Clean the shell plate and primer system (tray, ram, etc.) every time you refill the primer tube and you will almost never have problems.
The primer system was problematic at first, but swapping out the old seating rams with the new design, learning to keep it clean (not a big deal) and a couple of my own tweaks have made it near foolproof.
I suggest getting extra pickup tubes for each of small and large primers so you can fill them up before you start hitting the ram on the press - I have 4 or 5 of each size and will load them all up so that when I run out in the tube on the press, adding more is quick and easy and I don't really disrupt my rhythm or slow myself down.
Clean the shell plate and primer system (tray, ram, etc.) every time you refill the primer tube and you will almost never have problems.
schmellba99
New member
My priming system seemed to have a couple of consistent issues:
1. The seating ram would get crud built up under it. That was a function of the design. If you were to take a section view of the ram system, the ram itself was shaped like a "T" - great for saving material (keep in mind that Hornady is producing thousands and thousands of these things, so over the long haul less material equates to cost savings). The drawback is that carbon, powder, etc. would get caught between the bottom side of the "T" shaped ram and the lip of the spring loaded housing. Hornady came out with a new design that is an "I" shaped ram that doesn't have the lip. Made a huge difference.
2. I polished the shuttle chase on the shell plate holder and the bottom of the shuttle slide, then added some moly dry lube (graphite works just as well - I just happened to have had some moly handy at the time). It's aluminum, so go easy - but polishing it up made it run a lot smoother. A simple 5 minute job that helps with the overall function of the system.
3. This is probably the biggest change that made a difference for me:
(I will use the part number and names from the LnL AP O&M manual to keep things consistent here)
Part No. 4/5 - this is the small/large primer tube that actually sits inside the Housing Tube Primer (Part No. 6). It has a little machined shelf on the bottom that allows it to sit inside Part No. 14 (Housing Body Primer Tube).
I had major issues with Part No. 4/5 physically coming out of Part No. 14 during the operation of the press - this led to the primer stack not being contained within Part No. 4/5 and subsequently falling all over the place. Made a huge mess. Only thing I can think that happened is that the constant up and down motion of the ram, combined with the ever so slight friction between the primer stack and the tube, would cause Part No. 4/5 to eventually wiggle its way out of the machined shoulder on Part No. 14.
So I went out and bought a couple more each of Part No. 14 and epoxied them together. So instead of 3 parts (Part No. 14, Part No 4 and Part No 5), I have 2 parts (I hope this makes sense - see picture below). Basically I have a single assembly for small primers, and a single assembly for large primers. The only change whenever I switch over is that instead of changing just the tube that holds the primer stack, I change out the entire assembly that screws down to the shell plate. And since then, I have had exactly zero issues with the primer system so long as I take a few seconds every time I refill a primer tube and brush off any loose carbon or powder.
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Changing from small primers to large is simple - change out the seater ram, unscrew the large housing, unscrew the allen headed bolt that holds the assembly to the sub plate, remove the entire assembly of small primer tube and housing that I've epoxied together, screw down the assembly of large tube and housing that I've epoxied together, screw the large housing back on, connect the spring and rock and roll. Takes all of about 3 minutes.
1. The seating ram would get crud built up under it. That was a function of the design. If you were to take a section view of the ram system, the ram itself was shaped like a "T" - great for saving material (keep in mind that Hornady is producing thousands and thousands of these things, so over the long haul less material equates to cost savings). The drawback is that carbon, powder, etc. would get caught between the bottom side of the "T" shaped ram and the lip of the spring loaded housing. Hornady came out with a new design that is an "I" shaped ram that doesn't have the lip. Made a huge difference.
2. I polished the shuttle chase on the shell plate holder and the bottom of the shuttle slide, then added some moly dry lube (graphite works just as well - I just happened to have had some moly handy at the time). It's aluminum, so go easy - but polishing it up made it run a lot smoother. A simple 5 minute job that helps with the overall function of the system.
3. This is probably the biggest change that made a difference for me:
(I will use the part number and names from the LnL AP O&M manual to keep things consistent here)
Part No. 4/5 - this is the small/large primer tube that actually sits inside the Housing Tube Primer (Part No. 6). It has a little machined shelf on the bottom that allows it to sit inside Part No. 14 (Housing Body Primer Tube).
I had major issues with Part No. 4/5 physically coming out of Part No. 14 during the operation of the press - this led to the primer stack not being contained within Part No. 4/5 and subsequently falling all over the place. Made a huge mess. Only thing I can think that happened is that the constant up and down motion of the ram, combined with the ever so slight friction between the primer stack and the tube, would cause Part No. 4/5 to eventually wiggle its way out of the machined shoulder on Part No. 14.
So I went out and bought a couple more each of Part No. 14 and epoxied them together. So instead of 3 parts (Part No. 14, Part No 4 and Part No 5), I have 2 parts (I hope this makes sense - see picture below). Basically I have a single assembly for small primers, and a single assembly for large primers. The only change whenever I switch over is that instead of changing just the tube that holds the primer stack, I change out the entire assembly that screws down to the shell plate. And since then, I have had exactly zero issues with the primer system so long as I take a few seconds every time I refill a primer tube and brush off any loose carbon or powder.
Changing from small primers to large is simple - change out the seater ram, unscrew the large housing, unscrew the allen headed bolt that holds the assembly to the sub plate, remove the entire assembly of small primer tube and housing that I've epoxied together, screw down the assembly of large tube and housing that I've epoxied together, screw the large housing back on, connect the spring and rock and roll. Takes all of about 3 minutes.
TheFineLine
New member
I bought the Hornady LNL for Christmas last year. It is what I've learned to load on. Folks were right in that there is a significant learning curve. I had to figure out setting up dies while troubleshooting press issues. It gave me fits over a few weeks. Except for two, all of the issues were user based. The ball detents didn't actuate on my .45 shellplate. I didn't realize that was the problem and thought my timing was off! Talk about banging your head against the wall.... 
Let me tell ya, I'm pretty well an expert on LNL timing now 
It operates smoothly now. I've churned out a few thousand rounds from six calibers and have spent some time chronying. I'm having so much fun. Even with the frustrating learning curve I'm happy as can be with the progressive. Besides, red is my favorite color.
Let me tell ya, I'm pretty well an expert on LNL timing now It operates smoothly now. I've churned out a few thousand rounds from six calibers and have spent some time chronying. I'm having so much fun. Even with the frustrating learning curve I'm happy as can be with the progressive. Besides, red is my favorite color.madmo44mag
New member
I recently exchanged my old Pro-jector for a LnL
I have run 500 45 acp rounds through it and had a few issues with the priming system.
I have polished the shuttle and that helped.
I do not like the way you fill the primer tube so I modified it and now that seems to be a non issue.
The one thing I did not like is that the primers seat flush with the brass.
I like my primers to seat approx 0.010 -0.012 below flush.
I have a couple of revolvers that if the primer seats above the brass as little at 0.005 it will cause the cylinder to bind.
What I did was take the “C” clip off the primer punch and file down the housing 0.012 so when the ram bottoms out on the down stroke you get 0.012 more travel in the primer punch. Works like a champ now. Primers are seated 0.010 - 0.012 below the case.
schmellba99 I am thinking your idea of epoxying the tubes into the shuttle may be a good idea.I have some 300 MPH racers tape. Before I epoxy them in place I’ll see if I can lock them down with the tape and see how that works before I buy an extra shuttle.
So far I am liking the LnL.
Yes you have to keep the priming system clean but the LnL is a nice press.
I have run 500 45 acp rounds through it and had a few issues with the priming system.
I have polished the shuttle and that helped.
I do not like the way you fill the primer tube so I modified it and now that seems to be a non issue.
The one thing I did not like is that the primers seat flush with the brass.
I like my primers to seat approx 0.010 -0.012 below flush.
I have a couple of revolvers that if the primer seats above the brass as little at 0.005 it will cause the cylinder to bind.
What I did was take the “C” clip off the primer punch and file down the housing 0.012 so when the ram bottoms out on the down stroke you get 0.012 more travel in the primer punch. Works like a champ now. Primers are seated 0.010 - 0.012 below the case.
schmellba99 I am thinking your idea of epoxying the tubes into the shuttle may be a good idea.I have some 300 MPH racers tape. Before I epoxy them in place I’ll see if I can lock them down with the tape and see how that works before I buy an extra shuttle.
So far I am liking the LnL.
Yes you have to keep the priming system clean but the LnL is a nice press.
schmellba99
New member
You have to keep any priming system clean on any progressive. That is certainly not unique to Hornady.
I have never had an issue with my priming My press is a 2013....Initially as I learned on it, it just grew on me. I also have a SS RCBS JR 3 that comes in handy now and again. Interestingly enough if you go on Midway USA, Most LNL products are on back order. The press must be getting popular?
thewelshm
thewelshm
Junksamich
Inactive
schmellba99,
I did a similar fix to my primer feed tube from lifting out but decided that removing the base every time (glued) would require re-alignment with the feed shuttle hole. So I opted to drill and tap a 6/32 set screw hole in the base, I only just snug the screw to avoid bending the tube.
I did a similar fix to my primer feed tube from lifting out but decided that removing the base every time (glued) would require re-alignment with the feed shuttle hole. So I opted to drill and tap a 6/32 set screw hole in the base, I only just snug the screw to avoid bending the tube.
schmellba99
New member
Good idea, though I'm not sure I understand the issue with realignment whenever you change out.
But it works, and is easy - that's the main point. I emailed Hornady suggesting that they thread the primer tube base (female) and the primer tubes (male) so that they thread in instead of setting on a shoulder, but never heard back. At least I'm not the only one that had the problem, so I'm not completely crazy.
And no lie - since my little redesign, zero primer issues.
But it works, and is easy - that's the main point. I emailed Hornady suggesting that they thread the primer tube base (female) and the primer tubes (male) so that they thread in instead of setting on a shoulder, but never heard back. At least I'm not the only one that had the problem, so I'm not completely crazy.
And no lie - since my little redesign, zero primer issues.
I've loaded 7mm08 for years, but I've been looking to get into pistol loading. I had planned on a Lee progressive, but then I got to thinking I might like to load some high-volume 7mm08 "plinking" ammo, and I can't find out whether the Lee press will handle rifle cartridges (besides .223).
So, if I went with the Hornady LnL, could I load both 9mmP and 7mm08 from the same press?
Does Hornady offer a die like the Lee factory crimp die? I like that "factory" crimp much better than the "regular" crimps I see on other people's hand loads (I think this is usually in the seating die?).
So, if I went with the Hornady LnL, could I load both 9mmP and 7mm08 from the same press?
Does Hornady offer a die like the Lee factory crimp die? I like that "factory" crimp much better than the "regular" crimps I see on other people's hand loads (I think this is usually in the seating die?).
I just ran some 30-06 through my LnL AP with no issues, so it should be able to handle 7mm08. It was exhilirating, making 40 loaded rounds in the time it usually takes me to deprime and prime 50 cases.
I don't see why you wouldn't be able to buy a Lee Factory Crimp die and put it on the Hornady press, if you were so inclined. I have never tried, though, I just use the crimp dies that come with my die sets.
I don't see why you wouldn't be able to buy a Lee Factory Crimp die and put it on the Hornady press, if you were so inclined. I have never tried, though, I just use the crimp dies that come with my die sets.
my LNL primer issue
I just set my press up this past week. I had two problems with the primer system. First according to the instructions the primer tube is supposed to fit into the base so you can feel the shoulder drop into the smaller diameter of the base. mine felt really loose like it either was to small or not dropping into the smaller base diameter. Plus the tube seemed to long. When I put the plastic guide on the top end of the tube it's supposed to leave a pocket for the primer pick up tube to rest in and align the two tubes. Mine the primer tube stuck out to far. I flip the tube over and file a shoulder on the other end of the tube, making it a light press into the base. That kind of worked, and then I shortened the tube so it leaves room for the primer pickup tube to be aligned by the plastic guide.
I went ahead and called Hornady support and explained the problem and they sent me a new tube and a new base. The new tube was still to short in my opinion so I shortened it a little. I actually think the real problem is that the outer tube that protects the aluminum tube and the plastic top guide fits inside is actually to short. If I didn't thread it all the way down it would work ok. I could put some Teflon pipe tape on it and make it get tight before it gets to the bottom, but for now the new tube works ok once I cut it down 1/16 inch.
I will have to watch out for the tube lifting up.
All and lll I like it, but I have not even loaded 100 rounds yet so I am still a real N00b.
I just set my press up this past week. I had two problems with the primer system. First according to the instructions the primer tube is supposed to fit into the base so you can feel the shoulder drop into the smaller diameter of the base. mine felt really loose like it either was to small or not dropping into the smaller base diameter. Plus the tube seemed to long. When I put the plastic guide on the top end of the tube it's supposed to leave a pocket for the primer pick up tube to rest in and align the two tubes. Mine the primer tube stuck out to far. I flip the tube over and file a shoulder on the other end of the tube, making it a light press into the base. That kind of worked, and then I shortened the tube so it leaves room for the primer pickup tube to be aligned by the plastic guide.
I went ahead and called Hornady support and explained the problem and they sent me a new tube and a new base. The new tube was still to short in my opinion so I shortened it a little. I actually think the real problem is that the outer tube that protects the aluminum tube and the plastic top guide fits inside is actually to short. If I didn't thread it all the way down it would work ok. I could put some Teflon pipe tape on it and make it get tight before it gets to the bottom, but for now the new tube works ok once I cut it down 1/16 inch.
I will have to watch out for the tube lifting up.
All and lll I like it, but I have not even loaded 100 rounds yet so I am still a real N00b.
Junksamich
Inactive
schmellba99,
My original problem was there's a bit of side to side play and if I didn't look down thru the base and align with the shuttle hole when tightening, my primers wouldn't drop fully in to the shuttle. When the shuttle would move forward it would push the primer back up in the tube sideways. That would eventually lift the primer tube out and when I'd remove the blast tube to clear the jam, primers would run everywhere.
The threading of the large and small tubes would probably fix it at the factory.
Netzapper,
I load 9mm, 45acp, 357mag, 460mag, 223rem, 30/06, 7mm rem and I use Lee FCD's for all of them. The LnL will use most anybody's dies, Lees dies tend to be a bit short but you can make them work.
My original problem was there's a bit of side to side play and if I didn't look down thru the base and align with the shuttle hole when tightening, my primers wouldn't drop fully in to the shuttle. When the shuttle would move forward it would push the primer back up in the tube sideways. That would eventually lift the primer tube out and when I'd remove the blast tube to clear the jam, primers would run everywhere.
The threading of the large and small tubes would probably fix it at the factory.
Netzapper,
I load 9mm, 45acp, 357mag, 460mag, 223rem, 30/06, 7mm rem and I use Lee FCD's for all of them. The LnL will use most anybody's dies, Lees dies tend to be a bit short but you can make them work.
I'm going to bookmark this page for future reference for anybody considering buying a LNL progressive. As a warning of all the things you have to fix before it will load!
My Dillon 650 loaded flawlessly right out of the box. Set-up instructions are common sense and in common language with pictures. After set-up, it has never needed any user fixes, files, dremmel tools, new parts to correct lousy engineering or poorly finished parts.
At least we know Rube Goldberg is alive and well, working at Hornady. He and Murphy are in cahoots!
My Dillon 650 loaded flawlessly right out of the box. Set-up instructions are common sense and in common language with pictures. After set-up, it has never needed any user fixes, files, dremmel tools, new parts to correct lousy engineering or poorly finished parts.
At least we know Rube Goldberg is alive and well, working at Hornady. He and Murphy are in cahoots!
madmo44mag
New member
Awwwwh come on Snuffy.
There are just as many threads out there about problems with Dillon presses.
Some set up and run flawlessly and other need tweaking.
All these presses are mass produced and tolerances vary.
Some time a group of parts that are all on the edge of tolerance need a little tweaking to make them function.
I have owned both Dillon and Hornaday and like my LnL better because it is not so proprietary. Outside of that Dillon is a great product.
There are just as many threads out there about problems with Dillon presses.
Some set up and run flawlessly and other need tweaking.
All these presses are mass produced and tolerances vary.
Some time a group of parts that are all on the edge of tolerance need a little tweaking to make them function.
I have owned both Dillon and Hornaday and like my LnL better because it is not so proprietary. Outside of that Dillon is a great product.
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schmellba99
New member
And there comes snuffy to troll a perfectly good thread.
Because Dillon has never, ever, ever, ever, ever, ever, ever, ever, ever, ever in the history of man had a machine they made that had some type of problem. Nawwwww......never! They make absolutely, without a doubt, 100% perfect with zero tolerance ever machines!
Seriously, why do people purposefully click on a thread to troll?
Because Dillon has never, ever, ever, ever, ever, ever, ever, ever, ever, ever in the history of man had a machine they made that had some type of problem. Nawwwww......never! They make absolutely, without a doubt, 100% perfect with zero tolerance ever machines!
Seriously, why do people purposefully click on a thread to troll?