I have a few reloading questions

You have a lot of good info. above and I'll just add this thought; reloading manuals are not hard and fast formula. The are just reports of what a particular lab found using their equipment with the listed data, including OAL. Yep, they are accurate and can be trusted, but you'll see variations of reporting from manual to manual.

FWIW; I reloaded 38 Specials for approx. 7 years before I measured the OAL, I just seated the bullet to the crimp grooves/cannelures...
 
Yes. Lyman M die for a stepped flare that will hold the bullet straight upright as it enters the seating die. A Redding Profile Crimp die will prevent crimp-induced bulging (see below), if that's what you have. Without a photo, I can't be sure it it's what you have.
Using Lee dies.

I opened up the flare because during seating lube and lead was getting shaved off and I don't like that.

I've made loads with my Lee dies before and didn't have issues, but like I said, they were with once fired brass.
 
But the question is, is the bulge of the type shown third from the left in my second image? I still don't know for sure what issue you are seeing. Some just look at the slight bulge where the bottom edge of the bullet is mirrored in the sides of the brass. All that does is tell you where the bullet base is and if you measure the case OD over top of the bullet and below the bullet, it tells you how much narrower the brass was than the bullet is. If the brass has thicker walls than previous brass or, being new, was simply sized smaller at the factory than your sizing die makes them, that appearance will be more pronounced.

If you measure the OD's as described above and compare them to a load in a once-fired case, you will learn where the difference is for that kind of bulge.
 
I still don't know for sure what issue you are seeing.

Me either ,

You can get bulging if the bullet is misaligned while seating

If your seating die is screwed down to far that will cause it to crimp . Keep in mind the length of the brass has an effect on this . Is this new brass longer then the brass you used to set up your seating die ?

You say you are using Lee dies . Is there large amounts of resistant's when the cartridge enters and exits the crimp die ?
 
This is THE WORST of all the bulged cases I got so far, but it's in this area on the case that the bulges are occurring:

WP_20171104_19_13_28_Pro_LI.jpg


The few other cases I have that are bulged didn't show up well on camera, but I can feel the hump when I run my thumb over it.
 
Well I have to say that's not where I was thinking the bulge was .

Sorry when does this happen again ? During seating or the separate crimping stage

Can you feel that when you operate the press , Is there more resistant's at any point then normal ?

Are the new cases longer then the others you had been loading .
 
It's happening during bullet seating and running it through the crimp die doesn't seem to help "massage" the bulge out.

I've used these dies before and successfully, so I know the die set I have is fine. The only differences are that these are nickel cases and previously I was using brass cases, also these were the first reloads I've made with my new Lee classic turret press. Previously I was using Lee's hand press.
 
Looks like the seating die or the crimp die is screwed in too far. Or the overall length of the cases varies too much. (A variation of .010" or so could cause case bulge like that as well). It doesn't matter whether it's new brass or once fired brass, too much variation in sized case length can lead to problems like that. On cartridges I roll crimp, I generally try to keep no more than about .006" total variation in overall case length.

To set the seating/crimp die to seat the bullet, put an empty sized case into the shell holder and run the press ram to the top. Back the seating stem adjustment off several turns. Then screw in the die body until you feel resistance as the crimping feature in the die contacts the case. Now unscrew the die body one to two turns and set the die lock ring. The bullet seating stem adjustment is now used to adjust the bullet seating depth and no crimp will be applied to the cartridge as you seat the bullet.

To set the crimp die, place a case with seated bullet into the shell holder and run the press ram to the top. Back off the bullet seating stem (if so equipped) as far as possible. This will prevent the bullet from being seated further during the crimp operation. Then screw the die body in until you start to feel the die crimp contact the case. Now lower the press ram, screw the die in another quarter turn, and raise the ram to apply the crimp. Lower the ram and check the crimp. Fine tune the crimp by adjusting the die body in or out as needed to achieve the desired crimp. Note:. When adjusting the crimp die I usually stop adjusting when the crimp is slightly less than I want. Then I crimp about three or four at that die setting and inspect them (to see the varations in crimp caused by variations in case length). Then I repeat until I get the crimp I want and crimp the rest.

Again, don't skip measuring the length of every case. I've experienced surprising variations in case length in both new and once fired cases. Uniform case lengths are needed to get uniform roll crimps.
 
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I agree BBarn , If during seating and you are crimping on a separate station . It's the seating die that needs adjusting . Some of those cases must be longer then the ones you were using before or the die was readjusted wrong . I don't believe anyone has said there was a problem with the dies them selves , only how they are adjusted in the die .

Do you know the seating die also crimps if screwed down far enough ? Back your seating die out 1 full turn and adjust the seating stem down to compensate then try again . I'd bet dollars to donuts the problem goes away .
 
1. Can I load less powder than the suggested starting charge?

Yes, but I cannot tell you how much, what powders or loads, etc. I just don't know. I do know I read about successful below min loads in calibers like 38 spcl and 45 auto. You might use your google-fu to see how that is being done.

2. Case bulges/buckling during reloading

I rarely load new, but when I do, I fl size to my die settings. I've never trashed a case doing this.

Maybe you posted it, but where exactly are you seeing the bulge? After seat/crimp? Have you tried no crimp?

When you bell, can you stick a bullet in the mouth so that it sticks straight up?

Have you measured case wall thickness? Case OD after sizing? Bullet diameter?

In essence, some tool or component is out of spec, I believe. My money is on the components.

3. Do I have to strictly abide to OAL in published handbooks?

No. I use plunk test for semi auto pistol, distance to lands for bolt rifle, mag length for AR, and crimp groove for revelover. I usually confirm factory ammo. I always confirm book oal, but only to know if my pressure will be over/under the book value. IMO, book oal is pretty close, but intended more as a pressure/safety data point.
 
Pistol loads with fast powders can be loaded down to about 30% fill of the powder space under the bullet with no worries. The phenomenon Kraigway refers to is more commonly a slow powder problem in cases that provide long powder spaces. For these situations 70% case fill is a safe number. For example, Alliant says the .45 Auto 185 grain GDHP starting load of Bullseye is 5.8 grains, but literally generations of conventional pistol target shooters have used 4.2 grains behind 185 grain JSWC's to mimic commercial match ammo. And with lead, everything from 3.2 grains to 4.2 grains has been used in the .45, depending on the range. When you look at a .45 Auto cartridge and find the bullet base position from the slight bulge it makes, you can see the powder space is often no taller than it is wide. The same will be true for your .32 Long's when you use wadcutters seated nearly flush with the case mouth.



When you get to slower powders, you are looking at a different animal in that lack of adequate powder can lead to incomplete ignition and bullets stuck in the barrel. Beefier loads of slower powder is where you concern yourself more with under-loading. That said, I make it a rule never to load handguns below about 30% case fill with even a quick powder, and I try to keep slow powder loads and rifle loads at 70% fill or greater to avoid erratic ignition.



If you are buckling cases, it usually means you have the crimp shoulder of your crimp die set down too far. Back the die body out a quarter turn and turn the seating ram's stem in deeper to compensate. If that removes too much crimp, turn the body back in an eighth of a turn and raise the seating ram to compensate. See if that dosn't clear it up.



This X2.


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I finally got around to reloading the nickel plated brass cases now that they've been fire formed and I did not notice any bulges or cases buckling, so I guess it just means with brand, brand new brass I need to go easier with them when I first use them out of the box.
 
You are talking about a bulge in the case where the base of the bullet is???

This can happen no matter what your die adjustment is.

Brand new brass can be a little bit undersize, it can even be smaller than once fired resized cases. IF this is the case, then there will be a bulge in the case body at the base of the bullet, because simply put, the bullet is wider than the inside of the case and bulges it out.

OR it can also be because when you are seating your bullets you are not getting them completely straight (up and down) when they go into the die. A crooked bullet will seat just fine, but can leave a bulge in the case wall, usually only on one side.

IF the rounds chamber ok, then shoot them. The "bulge" will go away with the pressure from firing.

The listed COAL is the industry standard max length that should work in all guns in the chambered caliber. Not "will", but should. Factory ammo is always loaded slightly shorter than the listed max length. Your gun may require a round slightly shorter, or may accept a round slightly longer.
 
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